L322 Viscous Fan Speed

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Now as much as I enjoy a project "cos I can/want" type thing, also dont get me wrong not against someone trying something new.

Cooling costs power, wherever you get it from be that electrically or physically. So the water pump takes power to move water, which of course it does all the time even if its not needed. The fan viscous or not takes power to turn. So you cant get away from the efficiencies of cooling you need xx of power to cool that engine end of.

So if you live in a hot climate the best bang for your buck is a bigger more efficient Rad, once fitted it takes no power to cool.

My P38 runs a large electric fan and a larger radiator, but then it is 6.3l, the fan very rarely runs while driving around but of course it does in very slow traffic.
I have also ran a car with 2 small fans (1 or both on) with no water pump impellor, it ran a variable speed (temp sensitive/controlled) water pump.

So there are many ways to skin a cat ;).

So all that said, If you need/want better cooling in hot climate run a better rad to start with, then work from there.
If you want to play and try something then thats fine too.
Contrary to my previous comments in this original thread I am pretty sure I have the electro controlled Viscous fan, I also have equip that possibly could measure what you need except the fan Max RPM. But the defender is in the garage ATM so cant even think about trying it.
But ignoring peeps is childish IMHO.

Plus really you would get better response if you had started a separate thread. So start 1 and ask the mods to move this info you have already posted over to it.

J
Yeah a reasonable portion of why is because i want to.
Then next up is the stock fan is 25 years old so i would rather replace it earlier. So then why not just "upgarde" to the L322 fan?
I want to stay with more commonly available parts. Itll be alot easier to find a L322 radiator fan if im away on holiday somewhere compared to a Spal electric fan. The electronics im not worried about because im designing it so ill know how to bypass it if it happens to fail.

My worst case will be driving in a sandy river bed just south of namibia somewhere, so high engine load and low vehicle speed with 40 deg ambient. I seriously doubt electric fans are going to be able to keep up with that, along with the extra load on the alternator.

Ive looked at full aluminuim thicker core radiators, and come to the conclusion that i dont want/need it bad enough yet to justify the money, but i probably will in the future. The thing that makes me the most nervous about the stock radiator is that little plastic nipple on the top left that just looks like it wants to break off.

I would very much appreciate it if you could measure the PWM Frequency on the fan solenoid.
The Max fan RPM ill do what @Graculus suggested in post #60 but i think ill start more conservative at like say 2000RPM and if i need more i can always just push it up.

We actually dont know what P38 the poster has yet 🤔.

J
1999 P38 4.6 V8 Bosch
 
I used to run trips to North Africa, most clients were in variants of L319 or L322's the biggest cause of fan roar was the transmission temperature load - anything approaching 118 degrees caused a high duty cycle, obviously the engine & ground speed was low due to the terrain so there was little ram-air cooling and no high revs drop-off.
High AC load would increase the idle speed, so would high transmission temperature (it will also limit the throttle response, much like the GGS setting in TR) I think the highest ambient was around 42 degrees, there wasn't any noticeable 'group roar' and all vehicles responded to individual driver inputs quickly and cooled down just as easily.
One thing I did advise was to leave the engines idling with the bonnet open to limit the hot air pushed down onto the transmission - and prevent stratification of the coolant in the cylinder heads, each time we had a prolonged stop.

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BTW, whereabouts in Namib? I spent twelve years working in the dark continent, mainly government & petrochem stuff, my 'holiday' location was always somewhere there.
 
it will also limit the throttle response, much like the GGS setting in TR)

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BTW, whereabouts in Namib? I spent twelve years working in the dark continent, mainly government & petrochem stuff, my 'holiday' location was always somewhere there.
What is GGS and TR?

Im from Pretoria.
But around the Orange rover mostly will probably be the hottest conditions that the car will see.
But i very much want to do a trip up through Namibia, along the Caprivi strip and then back down through Botswana.
 
Sorry, it's the 'Grass, Gravel, Snow' setting in Terrain Response, came in with the post BMW ownership L322's and in L319/320 from launch - and every LR since, in varying degrees.

Take plenty of spare dampers, Botswana is a suspension killer! Some 4-6mm patch pieces and 6013 welding rods will come in handy too - plenty of bush mech's around with welders but their consumables generally result in 'bird sh!t' on the metal, rather than an actual weld....

Watch out on the strip, there's still a lot of mines around the Angolan border and some 'entrepreneurs' had a habit of repurposing them to stop tourist convoys, making it easier to relieve them of their trinkets.....
That was a few years ago mind, things may be better...
 
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