vils 110csw rebuild

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i got them from the US but they are phillips unit.They are more expensive than the old ones. But also considerably brighter.

Ive already sold the old uns
 
well long time no workee on!
Thought i need to get her back on the road, so ive been messing around with it today. I was worried the chassis was starting to die, but it looks like a crossmember and front outrigger replacement (or serious repair!) should have it mostly sorted.

I fitted one of these "boost pin" things to it today, I was a bit ****ed that it didnt fit at first, the quality is rather cack, and its not been case hardened. Ill buy a more expensive one later. This was £10!

I had to dress the end as it had a big burr on the end and wouldnt fit in the pump at first.

But....

Have to say its original performance has been restored. I wonder if the original pins slight groves have meant its not putting in fuel like it should? Anyway, its back to smoking like a destroyer on full chat... YUS!!!

Id forgotten how quiet it was, having driven the military 110 for a week to work, getting in this was pure luxury. Nothing like driving a shonker for a week to make you appreciate your vehicle! ;)

I also replaced the spare wheel with a matching challenge wheel from 4x4 tyres uk, and a new goodyear at2 from germany. (its way cheaper to get your tyres from abroad!)

Fitted the tufftrek awning and tent to the side of the roof rack too.

Gave it a good old hoover out, to get rid of all the metal swarf from the modifications ive made, and wiped off all the mould from the seats from where its been sat next to the river all winter. Bump started it in reverse and she fired up immediately :D

Got to fix the salisbury rear axle now..... :/ Tis buggered.
 
with the salisbury, is it worth fitting a LSD whilst its being repaired?
I did struggle a bit in winter in some situations with it spinning 2 wheels on ice whilst trying to recover the MIL's Kia from down the lane.
Thinking of a Detroit Helical locker? I know nothing about diffs so any info would be welcome.
 
I've been very pleased with my Ashcroft limited slips and they seem good for climbing up slippery slopes. However, judging by the website, they don't fit the Salisbury axle so you're pretty much limited to the Detroit. I'd probably go for a limited slip rather than a locker, because you just fit them and enjoy better traction in the snow. No need to engage and disengage, no wind up, just traction.
 
Thats what i want, no hassle. No dicking about flicking switches and this that and the other. Proper engineering with gears that just gets on with it, is what I bought the 110 for in the first place!

Ill have a looksee at the detroit locker, Ta!

Got to see how much damage has been done to the existing bits in the axle. :/
 
vilguy said:
I fitted one of these "boost pin" things to it today, I was a bit ****ed that it didnt fit at first, the quality is rather cack, and its not been case hardened. Ill buy a more expensive one later. This was £10!
.
Click to expand...

Ive been eyeing them up, but not gone for it yet... My pump has been messed with so much in the past (not by me) that its anyone's guess what the original settings are.

Considering sending it off to be rebuilt (£180 ex) with new seals etc, and re-set to stock, and then fitting a pin, if needed.

Was your pump messed with previously, or stock? I understand the pins are supposed to be fitted to stock pumps.
 
id dicked about with my pump quite a bit, but ive lost track of the settings i had haha.

I just slapped this in and its worked a treat. I probably just need to increase the preload a smidge as i had backed it right off. I have never messed with the main screw though... whatever its called.
Im using all the wrong terms here btw....

My bigger issue is that the injectors want sorting. I have bought a secondhand set and stripped and ultrasonically cleaned them. Will slip them in at some point. Need to get a 1.4 transfer box in before owt else. The 1.2 one with all the extra weight and 33" wheels is simply too much and I just stick to 4th, even on the motorway.
 
I just ordered a boost pin as my 90 struggles to do 60 on hills. I went with the £18 that is apparently hardened from ebay.

I messed with my pump a bit, but it just made smoke so I put it back. Any idea if you can tell where the smoke screw should be as standard?
 
no idea sorry :/

ive got a replacement pump thats still on its original settings that i intend to fit at some point to put me back to a starting point.
 
vilguy said:
no idea sorry :/

ive got a replacement pump thats still on its original settings that i intend to fit at some point to put me back to a starting point.
Click to expand...
I think mine is mostly standard, the problem being that the little lock nut thingy doesn't move freely, so when you back it off it turns the little screw too.

I was wondering whether to have the pump rebuilt as it doesn't accelerate at all when it is cold and I have tried most other things.
 
I had the same issue, suddenly both my 200tdis lost most of their poke. Probably down to the fuel i run them on....

Might be easier to just buy another un though :)
 
just did a quick hand calc and unless i have cocked up...

33" tyres @ 60mph are rotating at 608 rpm.
stock diff - 3.54:1
Therefore the propshafts are turning at 2152 rpm
Its got a disco transfer box so 1.2:1 ratio means that at the input to this its at 2582 rpm
Early LT77 box, which in fifth is 0.77:1
Therefore Im only doing 1988 rpm at 60mph.

(theres been a fair bit of rounding in there so wont be exact)

No wonder its feeling a bit gutless!

I deffo need to get a normal 1.4 transfer box in there asap.
Also the roof tents coming off, to reduce its rather top heavy nature!
At present its lifting a wheel whilst going round corners, I need to get an anti roll bar on the front!
 
Sounds about right. Mine looks to be doing about 2000 rpm with the overdrive engaged at 70 mph so I'd expect something similar with a high ratio transfer box and bigger tyres.
 
thought i need to sort out the handling issue, it doesnt self centre the steering. Happened after doing the lift despite checking all the bearings / swivels / bushes etc. Its not too bad, but does get tiring on long journeys.

So I have a set of QT front arms to fit with 3 degree castor correction. They are also claimed to be 40% lighter.. although rather insignificant in the sprung weight (especially as obviously it pivots around one end thus any weight savings are relatively halved)... every little helps!

If the weather is not completely miserable this weekend, plan to fit those, (they have been in the garage for almost a year!) and also the extra 45ltr fuel tank on the r/h wing. Should keep some of the road crud off the crossmember as a plus. Shall also be blasting clean the chassis and starting to repaint it. I was going to replace the crossmember but had another look last night and its not actually too bad, and the chassis rails are still sound. So cant really see the point in changing it. Just wants a few wee bits addressing. Nothing drastic.
 
Those under the wing tanks are great. I've got one and the extra 30 or 40 litres makes a big difference to how far you can get between fill-ups. Maybe another 150-200 miles. Get plenty of Waxoyl, Dinitrol or similar on the crossmember and the struts to the seat belt mounts beforehand because you won't be seeing them for a while.
 
I can't remember sorry :)

Discovered the qt arms I'd bought secondhand are the wrong ones. They are wide and my axles narrow. Bugger!
 
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