Vibrating through seat

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roshe25

Active Member
Posts
171
Location
Cheshire
Hi
A few weeks ago I had a recon vcu + bearings from Bell Engineering fitted by my local garage now when I go over 60mph there is a vibrating coming up through drivers seat.
Been back to garage to have it checked to see if u/js are ok and everything is ok,The bearings were fitted by Bell to the vcu when it was delivered and the garage has done work like this before can anyone give me some idea the reason it is only doing it over 60mph.
Thank you.
 
Are your tyres all the same make/model/size and the tread wear the same?

The easy option is to remove one of the props and drive it as front wheel drive only to see if the problem goes away. Check the bolts at the rear diff and ird pinion are fitted and secure. Check the bolts hold the props to the vcu. Wobble the props/vcu to see if they're loose.
 
Hi Hippo
I forgot to put tyres all the same and good and its an Auto I dont know if this makes any difference.
The problem is I am disabled and cannot get under to do anything so I have to rely on my garage but they are pretty good.
The only thing I was thinking was taking it to a LR indi to see if they could find anything but this will cost a lot and I dont want to keep paying out.
 
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If it only started happening since the vcu was replaced then if it were mine I would take a prop oft and test drive it to see if the problem goes away. This is an easy job for a garage if they have a lift. Easy for them to put back too. I'm assuming you have props/vcu fitted before and the fault wasn't there.
 
I'd check, as Hippo suggests, the two bolts that fix the splined flanges to the VCU. When I fitted my recon Bells VCU the shaft in the VCU was longer than the original which resulted in the flange going too far on the shaft and the fixing bolt tightening onto the shaft and not onto the flange. Bells advised me to cut (angle grind) a small amount, both ends, off the shaft which then allows the flange to tighten correctly, obviously they've had this problem before.
 
Hi
I did not have the propshaft on for a while as I thought the vcu might have been getting tight and there was no vibrating in mondo mode.
I will ask the garage to check about the shafts being to long on vcu but I would have thought they would have noticed that when they put vcu on propshaft.

Would the bearings that were supplied by Bell's be the cause of the problem as they were not gkn ones.
 
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My Bells VCU and bearings have been on for two years with no problems. I did have some vibrations at one point and asked Bells whether it could be the bearings and they thought it was unlikely. It turned out to be the rear UJ that had gone next to the diff. I would imagine the garage would have noticed any worn joint along the drive but it would be worth checkign - epecially at the front end where the prop meets the IRD as it sounds as though you may have an issue at the front given the vibration through the seat?
 
Hi
I did not have the propshaft on for a while as I thought the vcu might have been getting tight and there was no vibrating in mondo mode.
I will ask the garage to check about the shafts being to long on vcu but I would have thought they would have noticed that when they put vcu on propshaft.

Would the bearings that were supplied by Bell's be the cause of the problem as they were not gkn ones.

Get a bar or large screwdriver in the yoke and see if it moves, garage may not have noticed as would have presumed tightening the bolts would have been sufficient. Bells told me that later models had different length shafts, no problem if used with longer splined yoke but no good with the shorter yoke. Of course it could also be that different bearings are a different thickness, have a word with Bells.
 
Hi
Thanks everyone for replies I think I will have a word with bell's before taking the car anywhere else.
 
Hi
I have been in touch with Bell's and they think it could be the front cv joint or the front mounting on the diff.
It looks like I will be getting both of these just in case.
 
Hi
I have been in touch with Bell's and they think it could be the front cv joint or the front mounting on the diff.
It looks like I will be getting both of these just in case.

I believe the front prop joint only comes with the front prop. It's not like the usual cv joint as it has 3 fixed rollers. When I stripped mine down the grease had turned to liquid, perhaps re packing with cv joint grease may cure the vibration.
 
Hi
After posting I realized it could not be purchased as a separate part.I will go round to my local garage to get the things bell said checked.
As it is my battery went and my local garage came round to start car and replace battery now I have to go round and pay for it.
 
Hi
I have been round to garage and had the cv on the front of the prop and the front diff mounting checked and they are all ok.
Would it make any difference if I had the front prop unbolted at the cv joint then turned 90 degrees round and then bolted back up.
I am only trying to think of different things to do.
 
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Hi
I have been round to garage and had the cv on the front of the prop and the front diff mounting checked and they are all ok.
Would it make any difference if I had the front prop unbolted at the cv joint then turned 90 degrees round and then bolted back up.
I am only trying to think of different things to do.
It's worth a go. The props are balanced when made but if they're slightly bent then they're out. I've told peeps to do this before and it's made them say the problem dissapeared. It's easy to try. The strange thing is you say it's only doing it at 60mph. If it were vcu bearing it would make a noise at a much lower speed than this. Are the tyres worn evenly? Does it pull to the right/left?
 
Might only feel it at 60mph because you hit a resonant frequency that transfers well through the body. It may be wobbling all the time but 60 is the sweet spot.
 
Hi
I have been round to garage and had the cv on the front of the prop and the front diff mounting checked and they are all ok.
Would it make any difference if I had the front prop unbolted at the cv joint then turned 90 degrees round and then bolted back up.
I am only trying to think of different things to do.

Lining the joints up between front and rear won't make any difference as the VCU slips so the props will never stay in line, unless the VCU is seized.
 
Hi
The tyres are new and it does not pull to the left or right,It just seems to vibrate as you are going over 60mph then continues.
It looks like after paying out for a new vcu and garage bills I might be going back to Mondo and this will save all the messing about.
At leased if I decide to sell someone will be getting a new vcu to fit.
 
Lining the joints up between front and rear won't make any difference as the VCU slips so the props will never stay in line, unless the VCU is seized.

RAVE says to make sure that the prop is marked on the IRD and rear diff before removal so it goes back in the same place. The prop sections are balanced and they will vibrate if put back in a different orientation.

I think.
 
RAVE says to make sure that the prop is marked on the IRD and rear diff before removal so it goes back in the same place. The prop sections are balanced and they will vibrate if put back in a different orientation.

I think.
In my opinion yer right. This has been an on going debate on ere for years. Ere's my theory:

Each prop shaft is balanced at the time of manufacture one would eggspect. It has a little metal plate on it to balance it as required. The plate isn't always in the same place due to the needs of balancing.

A brand new vcu is machine welded. It's true the viscous fluid inside falls to the bottom of the vcu if left standing. But those like me who have drained a vcu know the fluid moves. Not as quick as water but it does move faster than you would think, considering it's similar to slime. So that won't make it vibrate unless the fluid has turned solid/hard.

Marking the ird/props/vcu when you take it oft means you can put it all back together in the same orientation. Some would say this isn't needed but if you do, and you put it back, in theory there shouldn't be a problem. If there is a problem then you can rule out fitting it differently as it's the same. If there was a problem before then eggpect it to happen again.

It's true the props rotate at a different speeds to each other under normal driving. The tip-ex test proves this. But what does that really mean? It means yer can't rely on one prop to counter balance the other prop. But marking the prop does allow the rear prop to connect to the rear diff as before. Also connection to the vcu is the same. Same goes for the front prop being connected to the ird the same. If there's any imbalance on the front prop/ird connection then aliging the re-fitted prop in the same way it was taken oft means yer should be able to rule out problems. Same goes for fitting the rear prop the same. The worst thing that can happen is taking it oft, then putting it back an hour later and it then vibrates. Especially if the Freelander hasn't been moved. Id the prop to diff/ird mounting perfectly central or oft set slightly?

A recon vcu isn't a brand new vcu. Some like to call it a genuine LR re-con vcu but that's a play on words. If it's been cut open for re-con then it will need to be welded back together. They won't have an automated machine to do this, with a precision jig like the manufacturer. They will have a jig but the weld just isn't the same quality as a new vcu. You can spin them in a lathe and clean up the weld. But there isn't the same guarantee the vcu is put back together perfectly straight before welding.

My old vcu is bent slightly. Imagine you support both axles of the vcu and give the vcu itself a whack with a big hammer. It's not bent by much, but at speed you may feel it. Turning it against a datum whilst it's oft ma hippo proves this. If I can find the video I will put it up. Can't film it again as it's already cut open.

I've known people to have bent props. Also one filled with mud when it was cut in 2 after it rolled on it's own on the floor. (don't know how he achieved this - dried out muddy water oft road?). If you take it oft road and land hard on an axle twister etc you risk hitting something underneath. Like the vcu (I think this is what I did) or the props. The vcu supports are surprisingly strong. I had one of my props rebalanced. Only needed a slight adjustment. If was cheap as the uj was being done at the same time.

Comparing this to the OP's problem of vibrations at 60mph+... He has a recon vcu which may be bent slightly. His props may be secure to the rear diff and ird but what if they're not perfectly central? What if the prop is bent? He doesn't know the history of his props. If they were his and he'd taken them oft then put them back and this problem occurred what does he do? Say there can't be a fault...

The vibration is only very small. The prop has to be turning very fast to notice it. that proves it must be small. Therefore the cause is only very slight. He either continues his quest or waits for it to get worse. Could this be resolved by disconnecting then reconnectiong the props to the rear diff and ird? Remember it's only a slight vibraton. Not like a house brick in a washing machine (goo gle it). Could it be his props/vcu are bent? If it were mine I would imspect and wobble all connections. Then turn one of the prop connections 90 degrees to the next bolt hole, and reconnect. Hence reconnect the prop to the rear diff by 90 degrees. The diff should spin central but a vibration would occur if the 2 mounting faces (diff/prop weren't central to each other. It's worked before. May just have been better alignment when disconnecting/reconnecting. Only other option is to lift the wheels oft the ground and set it driving (make sure yer vary safe when doing this) and check for vibrations. The engine will get hot far quicker than normal due to no wind cooling. In my opinion marking the props rules out a lot of guess work and makes fault finding easier. Going mondo would be a shame. Especially as the OP's already paid out for the parts. Waiting for it to get worse so it's easier to detect may be the only way. Could an unevenly fitted uj be just slightly out so it only causes this problem at speed...

Rant over.
 
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