Alibro
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Not sure where you heard they have fibrous plares. They are metal disks with slots in. Replacing the fluid has been done by lots of people including me. I've done it both by cutting the top off, cleaning and rewelding, and drilling holes and flushing.The viscous coupling is a sealed unit and contains several fibrous 'plates' in a silicone based fluid. If it's on it's way out the best policy is to replace it immediately. The VCU will destroy the rear diff, the IRD and potentially the gearbox. There is a thread on here by someone who drained the fluid( took three months ) and serviced the VCU (can't remember how) rebuilt and then refilled with fluid he found on eBay.....
The VCU is the achilles heel of the system and as it 'connects' the front and rear of the vehicle can do serious damage at both ends. Also your statement about being in 4 wheel drive permanently is incorrect.. The FL1 IS permanent 4WD anyway so irrelevant. The newer FL 2 uses a Haldex unit (IIRC) that only engages when needed(again IIRC)....Haldex is also used on older Audi TT's and some VW '4WD' systems. If an owner wants to they can disconnect the drive shaft completely and fit a blanking plate on the IRD. This makes the FL 1 front wheel drive only. This can be employed in the short or long term although claims of huge saving on fuel costs etc are not really well founded (from comments on here, I have never done this) This 'conversion' can be reversed if needed when a new VCU is located. Any conversion from standard would require the vehicles insurers to be informed.
Maybe if we had a 'database' of figures regarding the 'one wheel up test' it may have some value? However for this to be relevant it would have to be done in a more scientific way with everyone submitting their information after using EXACTLY the same technique and method of measurement. ....but I think the most experienced owners and Freelander Freaks on here have already come up with a 'usable' if not completely objective solution to this issue.
Hope this helps.
Best way is to cut the top off but only if your welding is up to scratch, (mine isn't) but either way works.