V8 conversion or Original V8?

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why not your right foot
One (right foot) will do too. But you can often extract better performance with left foot braking, as you can cover bother pedals at the same time, so avoid it running away from you or bogging if you are slow moving your foot from the brake to the throttle again.
 
One (right foot) will do too. But you can often extract better performance with left foot braking, as you can cover bother pedals at the same time, so avoid it running away from you or bogging if you are slow moving your foot from the brake to the throttle again.
in more exacting circumstances,not normal driving or laning
 
Rember reading LRO historical review of a test drive of an auto Classic journalist was panicing when nearing the brow of a steep off-road grass hill...what do I do to slow my descent he asked...when you crest the hill stamp on the throttle and it will kick down was the answer...never tried it in mine though...
 
Rember reading LRO historical review of a test drive of an auto Classic journalist was panicing when nearing the brow of a steep off-road grass hill...what do I do to slow my descent he asked...when you crest the hill stamp on the throttle and it will kick down was the answer...never tried it in mine though...
what was that with as i cant see how it would help with a rrc or d1
 
what was that with as i cant see how it would help with a rrc or d1

It was the first RR Classic Auto presented to the press journalists...I think if I remember correctly the LR demonstrater said use kickdown to lower gear not selector and control decent with brakes....but was a long time ago I read it...
 
It was the first RR Classic Auto presented to the press journalists...I think if I remember correctly the LR demonstrater said use kickdown to lower gear not selector and control decent with brakes....but was a long time ago I read it...
wouldnt make a difference as theres no engine braking without lockup,
you can select lower gears but it wont do it till vehicle speeds drops, fooling that with kick down unless you want to accelerate is pointless
 
Unless you can lock the convertor in low range (D2's and P38's do, RRC and D1 do not). Then you will not have engine braking off road akin to a manual. Sorry, this is fact not an opinion ;) Meaning you ideally need to do a lot of left foot braking off road.
Or just use your right foot. You will only be creeping down slopes anyway, what the engine is doing is pretty irrelevant. It will just idle.
 
hi /low lever was the only difference with the 25d lt85 t /box
I don't know if this was for all years or only some. And poss only 90 not 110. But I think the LT230 was a different ratio with the LT-85 and a twin Stromberg 3.5 V8. Something like 1.192:1 (maybe 29D rather than 25D). We have a period owners manual with the ratio in. But the vehicle is away having a 3.9 EFI fitted currently, so I can't take a look at the handbook as it's in the cubby box.
 
I don't know if this was for all years or only some. And poss only 90 not 110. But I think the LT230 was a different ratio with the LT-85 and a twin Stromberg 3.5 V8. Something like 1.192:1 (maybe 29D rather than 25D). We have a period owners manual with the ratio in. But the vehicle is away having a 3.9 EFI fitted currently, so I can't take a look at the handbook as it's in the cubby box.
25d was 1.4 for 110 which we used to do a lot of but you are right 29d was 1.2 for 90s
 
Or just use your right foot. You will only be creeping down slopes anyway, what the engine is doing is pretty irrelevant. It will just idle.
On the whole I don't disagree. Although some terrain and conditions require somewhat more thought. Engine braking is great because it is even across the front/rear axles and generally helps reduce wheel lockup/skidding. It is much harder to achieve this with manual braking, and on slippery surfaces you will be prone to locking the wheels up much easier.

This normally transcends into autos often running away down steep slopes a bit more and being a bit more butt clenching. Left foot braking works well in certain situations, such as a going up a steep climb that needs some throttle, but it crests over to a steep descent at the top. With engine braking you only need to lift off and you have it, if you have to move your foot off of one pedal and over to another then try and find the bite point, it takes time. Left foot braking and trail braking with your left foot and help in these situations.
 
On the whole I don't disagree. Although some terrain and conditions require somewhat more thought. Engine braking is great because it is even across the front/rear axles and generally helps reduce wheel lockup/skidding. It is much harder to achieve this with manual braking, and on slippery surfaces you will be prone to locking the wheels up much easier.

This normally transcends into autos often running away down steep slopes a bit more and being a bit more butt clenching. Left foot braking works well in certain situations, such as a going up a steep climb that needs some throttle, but it crests over to a steep descent at the top. With engine braking you only need to lift off and you have it, if you have to move your foot off of one pedal and over to another then try and find the bite point, it takes time. Left foot braking and trail braking with your left foot and help in these situations.
Don't get me wrong, i like engine braking. But you do get a little bit with auto.
But for me, the slight disadvantage going downhill is outweighed by the advantages going uphill, where the smooth power transmission, and lack of changing gear with a clutch, makes progress more likely.
The other advantage of auto is that it reduces driver fatigue, because it is something else you don't have to concentrate on, which is a factor if you are working out in the woods for 8 hours or more a day.
 
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