Freelander 1 V6 HeadGasket - what tests to run

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The fuel rail on my V6 (2004 facelift) just pulled off, although some of the rubber O-Rings from the injectors came with it. When I posted about the job people said I should have removed the rail complete with the injectors although at least in my case the injectors obviously hadn't been out of the heads for years and were good and stuck.
 
The fuel rails are reinforced plastic. They are linked by a metal pipe. There's no need for special tools to release the clips though.
You can even lift the complete assembly with manifolds as one unit, if you like.
 
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Ah! I forgot about the clips. They are easy to pop off with a slot screwdriver and 5 of them go back on easily,
but of course one has to go on the reverse direction and needs double-jointed monkey fingers to fit.
A magnetic pick up tool comes in very handy to retrieve the clip from the area below the thermostat!
 
Rich in Vancouver said:
Ah! I forgot about the clips. They are easy to pop off with a slot screwdriver and 5 of them go back on easily,
but of course one has to go on the reverse direction and needs double-jointed monkey fingers to fit.
A magnetic pick up tool comes in very handy to retrieve the clip from the area below the thermostat!
Click to expand...
The trick here is to leave the injectors in the manifolds. Minimum disassembly means easier reassembly and less chance for leaks;)
 
Well today I drained the oil, and there is coolant in it. There is no oil in the coolant piping but coolant in the oil I just drained.

image.jpeg

This has to confirm the head gasket is bad.
 
or oil radiador with small hole inside.

Check this topic:
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/freelander-v6-overheating.289813/page-8#post-3652862
My V6 already have the HG failure in cylinder 5 and I changed it.

The temperature of the engine after changing was between 92 ~ 102°C, but with the arrival of summer was coming to 109ºC. To avoid burning another head gasket again, I removed the interior content of the thermostatic valve and put an adapter with a small hole in engine input side, leaving direct radiator coolant flow. Now the temperature is between 70ºC and 86ºC max.
 
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comdek said:
or oil radiador with small hole inside.

Check this topic:
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/freelander-v6-overheating.289813/page-8#post-3652862
My V6 already have the HG failure in cylinder 5 and I changed it.

The temperature of the engine after changing was between 92 ~ 102°C, but with the arrival of summer was coming to 109ºC. To avoid burning another head gasket again, I removed the interior content of the thermostatic valve and put an adapter with a small hole in engine input side, leaving direct radiator coolant flow. Now the temperature is between 70ºC and 86ºC max.
Click to expand...
That temp is not going to do a good job of keeping the normal condensation out of the oil. It would be a good idea to double your oil change frequency or you will get sludge build up.
 
comdek said:
or oil radiador with small hole inside.

Check this topic:
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/freelander-v6-overheating.289813/page-8#post-3652862
My V6 already have the HG failure in cylinder 5 and I changed it.

The temperature of the engine after changing was between 92 ~ 102°C, but with the arrival of summer was coming to 109ºC. To avoid burning another head gasket again, I removed the interior content of the thermostatic valve and put an adapter with a small hole in engine input side, leaving direct radiator coolant flow. Now the temperature is between 70ºC and 86ºC max.
Click to expand...
I already have Kaiser's excellent aluminium thermostat housing and associated piping.
 
My engine is showing problems in the head gasket again, because morning in cold start gives "hydraulic lock". I have also seen bubbles in the return of the expansion tank pipe. I didn´t check the spark plugs yet, but I believe that the cylinder 5 is the failure again. The problem may be the piston liner. If the problem is that not worth performing maintenance, I will use until the engine blows and put a diesel in place. Sell the car with blown engine loses much value, and I love my car. The engine parts in my country is very hard to find and expensive to import. I'll try to find a VW 1.9D with a manual transmission. Electronic adjustments to operate the dashboard, ABS, etc. via the CAN-BUS I see no difficulty, because I have electric diagrams and good knowledge in electronics. :rolleyes:
 
comdek said:
My engine is showing problems in the head gasket again, because morning in cold start gives "hydraulic lock". I have also seen bubbles in the return of the expansion tank pipe. I didn´t check the spark plugs yet, but I believe that the cylinder 5 is the failure again. The problem may be the piston liner. If the problem is that not worth performing maintenance, I will use until the engine blows and put a diesel in place. Sell the car with blown engine loses much value, and I love my car. The engine parts in my country is very hard to find and expensive to import. I'll try to find a VW 1.9D with a manual transmission. Electronic adjustments to operate the dashboard, ABS, etc. via the CAN-BUS I see no difficulty, because I have electric diagrams and good knowledge in electronics. :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Good luck with that. But I suspect it's harder than you think. It would be easier to repair the engine properly by raising the lines to the correct hight;)
 
Further investigation. After the recent oil change after doing the timing belts, I looked into the camshaft cover where the oil cap is. Notice the tremendous amount of "mayo" now.


image.jpeg

I will update again when I have another update.
 
There are a few causes of mayo. Lots of short trips, where the oil never exceeds 70+ °C.
A coolant leak on the inlet manifold gasket, between the inlet and the coolant pipe will cause it.
A failing HG is also a cause.
A failed liner lower seal also possible, but unlikely.
Finally a split liner will also allow coolant into the oil, but this is very rare.
 
Nodge68 said:
There are a few causes of mayo. Lots of short trips, where the oil never exceeds 70+ °C.
A coolant leak on the inlet manifold gasket, between the inlet and the coolant pipe will cause it.
A failing HG is also a cause.
A failed liner lower seal also possible, but unlikely.
Finally a split liner will also allow coolant into the oil, but this is very rare.
Click to expand...
Agreed Nodge, but that is a H€LL of a lot of Mayo' - there are quite a few catering jars of Hellman's in there.:eek: - A bit more than short trips I am sure you will agree :)
 
I'm always shocked at just how much mayo will build up in the KV6 with short journey use. Especially if there is a low outside temperature. I put this down to a lazy breather system. It's not uncommon to see water droplets in the TB, which have condensed in the breather.
My ex KV6 (now the mother in law's) suffers mayo and water in the TB continually. It doesn't loose a drop of coolant, so it's all from condensation.
 
Nodge68 said:
I'm always shocked at just how much mayo will build up in the KV6 with short journey use. Especially if there is a low outside temperature. I put this down to a lazy breather system. It's not uncommon to see water droplets in the TB, which have condensed in the breather.
My ex KV6 (now the mother in law's) suffers mayo and water in the TB continually. It doesn't loose a drop of coolant, so it's all from condensation.
Click to expand...
What's a 'low outside temperature' ? :D
:oops:
I am amazed the v6 suffered that badly. yikes..
 
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