Freelander 1 V6 belts

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OK, front manifold is off, looking forward to replacing the back 3 bolts!!

Now digressing onto pink water in the engine 'V'.
Removed stat and elbow, all looks fine, but the top of the elbow has a quick release fitting which has been fitted to a hose with a jubilee clip so not original. Further, the quick release looks upside down so cannot be released without removing the elbow from the block.
Looks like there are 2 types of elbow. One with and one without quick release fitting on the end. This is a MY2000. Anyone know which is right?? I am thinking the hose to quick release could have been the leak as the qr fitting is damaged where the jubilee clip has been done up.

Also, the stat doesn't open when boiling water is poured through it. I'm thinking it should!!!

New stat, o rings and elbow me thinks.

Thanks
 
Looks like the Rover 75 V6 used the straight end elbow to fit a pipe with jubilee clip.
Will a Rover 75 V6 thermostat, elbow and centre pipe fit? They are cheaper and also have the end I need to connect to the soft hose coming off the elbow.

Thanks.
 
andyfreelandy said:
Looks like the Rover 75 V6 used the straight end elbow to fit a pipe with jubilee clip.
Will a Rover 75 V6 thermostat, elbow and centre pipe fit? They are cheaper and also have the end I need to connect to the soft hose coming off the elbow.

Thanks.
Click to expand...

There are 2 types of OE thermostat, one for LR, and one for Rover. The LR one uses QR connectors, the Rover one uses standard hose clip fittings.

There's also an aluminium aftermarket thermostat, which is the way to go, if you're keeping the vehicle, the aluminium is modeled off the Rover thermostat.

I had the Rover thermostat in mine, basically because one of the QR couplers was leaking, and a new hose was silly money.

The Rover thermostat works ok, but mine started leaking again within 3 years, so needed replacing again. :eek:

The mother in law owned it by then, and when she was selling it when I noticed it leaking a second time, so I replaced the thermostat with another plastic one, so that was 3 thermostats in 6 or so years, all of them leaking on the welded seam.

I'd definitely suggest the aluminium alternative, as it's the most secure way of keeping the coolant in the engine, and the thermostatic element can be replaced if it fails. ;)
 
Thanks, will correct all bodges on the way through!
Can't find the aluminium one at the moment.
How on earth do you get the rear manifold bolts in x3 ?? I think I'll try blue tak to hold them while fitting the manifold then pick up the tak when the threads start??
 
V6 is still on the ramp. Slightly distracted by relaying the bedroom floor which, due to age, had banana ahaped beams causing springy floorboards.
Back to the car this afternoon. 2 small belts done and now fitted new stat and new O rings on all pipes. Old ones were quite loose fit. Stat was not opening when tested with boiling water. New one works fine. Tested before fitting!!

All water pipes back in, front manifold back on, used sellotape to hold rear 3 bolts and then when the threads started pulled it off and tightened all bolts.
Reconnected all wiring and HT leads and fuel pipes.
Just the plastic manifold chamber and vacuum hoses to go.
Feet got cold!!

Then, will test car out and do front large belt as a separate job. Need the ramp for sommat else.
Then will be on with the Td4 torque converter change. One day, one day, everything will work without faults.....
 
All back together again. Many thanks to Mr Nodge for the photo of what the pipes should look like!! Found on a search with dots to show the function. I had to refabricate many of the pipes and joints to remove precious bodges.
Cables in correct clips, damaged couplings replaced and ready for testing tomorrow. Letting coolant settle as it burbs and air comes out.
Fingers crossed for a start up tomorrow.
Excluding the thermostat work 3 hrs to do the 2 x camshaft link belts.
Will be following up with long main belt in a week or two.
 
Don't suppose anyone has a spare V6 engine cover thumb screw that holds the cover at the front of the car??
I have only one at the moment.
Thanks
 
2 belts and a stat done, all works fine, no leaks.... Yet.
Tricky to bleed coolant but a few mins of engine, bleed, repeat worked and interior heater working well.
It is amazingly nippy now that the front caliper is not locked solid!!

Gives confidence to do the front belt which looks like a time consuming but more straight forward job than the rears!

This might just be a keeper. Then would have one of each engine type in use. Well, at least one.
 
andyfreelandy said:
Gives confidence to do the front belt which looks like a time consuming but more straight forward job than the rears!
Click to expand...

The front belt isn't difficult, but don't undo the bolts to the cam pulleys, or you'll throw the timing out.
Just keep the rear belts locked, to prevent the cams from shifting. Or mark the pulley position with reference to the back plate, and line the marks up when the new belt goes on.
 
Thanks, Rave shows removal of Lower engine steady bar when doing the front belt. I know the engine is supported but if it is supported correctly is the removal of the steady necessary?
IRD mount bracket bolts I can see attach to the engine front plate so that makes sense to remove.
Thanks
 
The lower engine steady only needs removing if it's in the way.
The engine needs supporting correctly. I used the RH upper lifting eye when I did my ZS 180 belts, simply hanging the engine by my engine crane at a comfortable working height. I seem to remember putting a block under the sump too, but its a decade ago now, so my memory isn't so clear.
I do know there's an awful lot to remove, to even access the belts, and it's a bit of a jigsaw puzzle putting it all back together again. :eek:
 
Had similar idea but the lifting hook hs to come off on the Freelander!
I'll use the transmission jack and a block of wood.
Have the Rave pages printed out and annotated as I think necessary!!
 
I used an axle stand and a few bits of wood to support my engine at the perfect height.

Missing screw... I cut the end oft a thin bolt and screw than in the hole. then fitted several nuts to lock on and support the cover at the right height. Washers either side of the cover. Then two nuts tightened together on top so they don't come undone.
 
Thanks. Can you remember if you disconnected the lower engine stay?
Can't see the point but might have missed sommat. Rave says remove.
 
andyfreelandy said:
Can you remember if you disconnected the lower engine stay?
Click to expand...

I don't remember disconnecting it on the ZS, but it doesn't have an IRD, but still can't see a reason too in the Freelander. However if it does need to be unbolted, it's only 2 bolts at most. ;)
 
Indeed, just if it needs to come off would rather do it whilst vehicle up in air before settling engine on blocks and support. Easier to get to.
Probs will remove rather than find out why it needs to come off later!
Let's go with Rave.
 
andyfreelandy said:
Indeed, just if it needs to come off would rather do it whilst vehicle up in air before settling engine on blocks and support. Easier to get to.
Probs will remove rather than find out why it needs to come off later!
Let's go with Rave.
Click to expand...
Have you worked out a way to support the belt end of the power unit?

I used my crane for the Freelander V6, but for my ZS I used a suitable length of 4"X2" timber which went across the engine bay, supported on the inners wings, making a stiff support beam. The engine was hung off an eyelet fitted in a hole I drilled in the wooden beam, at a suitable position.
Unfortunately I can't find any pictures of what I made and used, but it was a DIY equivalent of a commercially available engine beam.
 
I was thinking lh front wheel off but at ground height with axle stand then my transmission jack and a block of wood underneath the engine to just maintain the installed height.
 
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