use this product to patch chassis?

J B STICK cold weld stick 'don't bin it jb weld it' on eBay (end time 15-Jan-11 21:09:51 GMT)

I've just been looking at picking up a welder to patch a small hole in my chassis by the cross member - was going to either get a replacement rear 1/4 or just patch the hole. Found this on eBay and was wondering if it would do the job? I'd only need to apply a piece of metal about the size of a palm.
Would it just be a case of clean the area, file chassis to remove all rust waxoyl, then apply this stick weld and put a new piece over the hole (which metal should i use for the plate?)

Cheers
Ben

Weld it properly

Liverpool.90 said:

J B STICK cold weld stick 'don't bin it jb weld it' on eBay (end time 15-Jan-11 21:09:51 GMT)

I've just been looking at picking up a welder to patch a small hole in my chassis by the cross member - was going to either get a replacement rear 1/4 or just patch the hole. Found this on eBay and was wondering if it would do the job? I'd only need to apply a piece of metal about the size of a palm.
Would it just be a case of clean the area, file chassis to remove all rust waxoyl, then apply this stick weld and put a new piece over the hole (which metal should i use for the plate?)

Cheers
Ben

Click to expand...

That is for nonstructural components use it on a chassis etc and you'll fail the mot if the tester spots it. And that stuff will doo pin holes or small cracks (great for blowing eggsauces) but there is no way it will fill any hole larger than the tip of ya little finger.

liverpool.90 said:

j b stick cold weld stick 'don't bin it jb weld it' on ebay (end time 15-jan-11 21:09:51 gmt)

i've just been looking at picking up a welder to patch a small hole in my chassis by the cross member - was going to either get a replacement rear 1/4 or just patch the hole. Found this on ebay and was wondering if it would do the job? I'd only need to apply a piece of metal about the size of a palm.
Would it just be a case of clean the area, file chassis to remove all rust waxoyl, then apply this stick weld and put a new piece over the hole (which metal should i use for the plate?)

cheers
ben

Click to expand...

plllleeeeaaase dont do this!!!

i used something like that made by Plastic Padding to fix a fuel tank while it was still leaking after nudging a rock a bit hard.
But would not use it for structural parts noway

glad i asked. cheers guys. looks like ill be picking up a welder as soon as i can find one.

JB Weld is good stuff, mate of mine put it on a cracked block on an old peugot 505.
But do not use on chassis get it welded, i know im a welder !!!!

Liverpool.90 said:

glad i asked. cheers guys. looks like ill be picking up a welder as soon as i can find one.

Click to expand...

If you buying one for home, make sure its single phase and dont get one under 180 amp's

can you draw 180 amps off a house circuit ?

my 150 amp manual says i should really install a dedicated 20 amp fused set up from the fuse board - im in a rented house so i cant

after a gooogle it seems so long as dont try to weld at 150 all the time ill likely be ok but its a risky business ....not sure id want to do it with a 180

top drive said:

can you draw 180 amps off a house circuit ?

my 150 amp manual says i should really install a dedicated 20 amp fused set up from the fuse board - im in a rented house so i cant

after a gooogle it seems so long as dont try to weld at 150 all the time ill likely be ok but its a risky business ....not sure id want to do it with a 180

Click to expand...

But it's not drawing 180Amps? that's built up inside the welder as it drops the voltage and increases The amps.

If you've got an electric cooker with a 3pin plug use that as it is fed by a 30Amp fused supply. or if you have a spare fuseway in ya fusebox run a 10mm T&E wire from it and fit a 30amp waterproof socket to the end of it.

top drive said:

can you draw 180 amps off a house circuit ?

my 150 amp manual says i should really install a dedicated 20 amp fused set up from the fuse board - im in a rented house so i cant

after a gooogle it seems so long as dont try to weld at 150 all the time ill likely be ok but its a risky business ....not sure id want to do it with a 180

Click to expand...

Red hand is right, but i dont even do that, not had a prob with normal 13amp socket, its not often you will use on full power anyway.
Dont buy one of these set that use a little bottle of gas and a little spool of wire, get a proper set, only prob you might have is getting gas unlesss you know someone that you can borrow one off as they are expensive

As everybody else is saying weld it
And being some one who,s used a 180 amp on a normal 13amp socket and believe me i have done some really heavy welding jobs and never had a fuse blow let alone a problem
As for gas it can be expensive if you take out a contract on a bottle but worth it if you do a lot of welding because pub gas wont give you as good a shield as the proper stuff
but good luck
Regards Gary

You must do a proper weld repair to your chassis or it will fail (not just the MOT) Buy a welder and get some practice before you go near the chassis. If you do buy a welder get the best one you can afford and if you want to weld your chassis you will need a 150amp model minimum.
I used to have a 100 amp Clarke mig and it was fine for most jobs but not up to doing chassis repairs. I now have the 150 turbo model and that is more than adequate to get good penetration on chassis thickness plate. Argoshield (pick your own brand name) does give a neater weld than CO2 but you have to buy the little bottles or rent a big bottle both of which are much more costly than pubgas. For the occasional welder pubgas is the cheapest way forward and the welds are just as strong.
When I got my 150 amp mig I did run a dedicated (blue euro type) socket from my consumer unit, I never tried using it from the 13amp ring main.

If you're looking to buy a welder, go for a better quality second-hand one rather than a cheapo new one. Ask me how I know!

Fortunately, after nearly chucking my first welder in the bin, I did a welding course at the local college and got to try out a decent unit - the difference was amazing. My welder went on fleabay and I bought a second-hand one that didn't cost a lot more than the price of the rubbish one. The quality of my welding improved instantly - now I'll happily tackle the tricky jobs (thin metal is much harder to weld well than thick stuff) that I could never have managed with the old machine.

instantsquid said:

If you're looking to buy a welder, go for a better quality second-hand one rather than a cheapo new one. Ask me how I know!

Fortunately, after nearly chucking my first welder in the bin, I did a welding course at the local college and got to try out a decent unit - the difference was amazing. My welder went on fleabay and I bought a second-hand one that didn't cost a lot more than the price of the rubbish one. The quality of my welding improved instantly - now I'll happily tackle the tricky jobs (thin metal is much harder to weld well than thick stuff) that I could never have managed with the old machine.

Click to expand...

Think I might have to do that... got a cheap stick welder which I always have difficulty with in getting it to arc. Once the tip is hot it is better but still not great.

Yeah, I got a stick welder first - cheap as chips and does have it's uses. But there's not much I would use it for now I've got the MIG setup. Make sure your welding rods aren't getting old and damp - makes it much harder to weld with them. I keep mine in the airing cupboard

I use an arc welder and just before I do any welding I bung the rods under the grill for 5 mins or warm them up with the blow torch. Works a treat. Can't use a MIG. I always melt the end of the gun every time. Spent more time setting the fukin thing up than welding with it. Sold mine and bought a better arc welder lmao ( I know its the wrong way round but its what your used to en it )

If you do want to buy a welder and learn about welding, check out the forum/site here -----> MIG Welding - The DIY Guide I think its been mentioned on the thread earlier. Of all the less expensive mig's the only one that has a decent quality reputation is the range from Clarke. Generally it seems best to avoid the chinese made and noname brands. I am on my second Clarke mig, the first lasted 20 years, to be fair I don't do a lot of welding at home. I had acces to mig, tig, gas and arc welding at work before I got made redundant.