Urgent question - landy on ramp and time ticking - *dropl link*

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LRD90tdi

LRD90tdi

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Guy please help - I've borrowed Father-in-laws ramp and I need to get it sorted this afternoon...

Is the 1 3/8" drop link bold a regular straight forward bolt - other than the washer which I've hit back...???

I've put a 2ft long piece of box over the end of the bar and it won't shift!

Please help, I'm stuck! :(

Thanks in advance

Tom

PS I have a new drop link arm, and kit. I'm prepared to cut the bugger off (I've read Busters comments!) but I'm worried about damaging the steering box if I'm missing something??
 
Cut the fecker off, had the same trouble with mine although I was fitting a new box so in the end I just left it on and bought a newun with the box ;)

Saying that the bolt itself should come off fairly easily. got mine undone with a normal half-inch breaker bar.
 
110widebody said:
Guy please help - I've borrowed Father-in-laws ramp and I need to get it sorted this afternoon...

Is the 1 3/8" drop link bold a regular straight forward bolt - other than the washer which I've hit back...???

I've put a 2ft long piece of box over the end of the bar and it won't shift!

Please help, I'm stuck! :(

Thanks in advance

Tom

PS I have a new drop link arm, and kit. I'm prepared to cut the bugger off (I've read Busters comments!) but I'm worried about damaging the steering box if I'm missing something??
Click to expand...

Do you mean the 1 5/16" (34mm) drop arm nut? Yup, do the washer tab and it should come off. It is on at at around 175nm. Try soaking it in plusgas/diesel.

just done mine re drop arm misery
 
Ended up cutting 1 slice right through with a grinder then smashing a chisel in to open big swing with a big hammer and eventually it came off. Not nice on my back on the drive.
 
The large nut on came off without too much of a fight - once I was happy it wasn't a reverse thread or anything daft, but the arm itself gave a very good account of itself - as predicted!

I did try and beat it off, but it was having none of it, so out came the grinder with a nice thin disc.

Once removed (some hour later, and a large broken chisel) I thought the new one should be easy, but getting the shim down all the way proved a real arse without a press.

Eventually we got it to the base of the drop link, but despite it looking like it was all the way home, we couldn't assemble (I had help by this point) the inners and get the circlip in - there just wasn't enough space despite being cranked up in the large bench vice with a variety of sockets to apply the pressure on the correct parts.

In the end I used a thinner washer: I had to get it back together and off the ramp!

Any one else found this?

I remember looking down the bore of the drop link, and seeing a ridge half way down, and as soon as the shim (i'm calling it a shim) got to this it was very tight, and from there on it seemed to be scraping tiny amounts of swarf down the bore. Once in for a penny I was in for a pound, but I'm sure these scraping collected and prevented the shim from going all the way home - even if it were 0.5mm it made a difference.

I tell you what though, it hasn't half sorted out the steering!!! :)

Tom
 
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sounds like you didnt get the upper seat in far enough ,it has to be exactly square,might be worth you buying a drop arm and ball joint complete ,as that if i understand correct is a bit of a bodge
 
jamesmartin said:
sounds like you didnt get the upper seat in far enough ,it has to be exactly square,might be worth you buying a drop arm and ball joint complete ,as that if i understand correct is a bit of a bodge
Click to expand...

Hi James.

You're right, but the ridge in the arm itself seemed too pronounced.

The upper seat is within 1mm of where it should be, and square, so I doubt very much it will cause a problem, and I'm certainly in no hurry to remove it!

I really can't see it causing a problem to be honest - can you?

Cheers
Tom
 
Last edited:
110widebody said:
Hi James.

You're right, but the ridge in the arm itself seemed too pronounced.

The upper seat is within 1mm of where it should be, and square, so I doubt very much it will cause a problem, and I'm certainly in no hurry to remove it!

I really can't see it causing a problem to be honest - can you?

Cheers
Tom
Click to expand...
I would try and get that right if possible, it is a safety critical steering component. If you had an accident your insurers inspector might notice. You need to clean out the arm thoroughly. Im not sure why you need to remove the arm if you are changing the joint in situ?
 
Turboman said:
I would try and get that right if possible, it is a safety critical steering component. If you had an accident your insurers inspector might notice. You need to clean out the arm thoroughly. Im not sure why you need to remove the arm if you are changing the joint in situ?
Click to expand...

Really though - do you not think that is a little ott?

The gap isn't really visible but you can just feel it with a small nail. The washer I chose was just a bit thinner. There is no play what so ever and I fail to see how it is dangerous - what can actually happen to the join?

I took off the arm because it was so worn out I felt a replacement kit would have been a waste of time and money. Well time - I have very little spare time, but want to do the work myself. I've done HG and box changes before and am not in the habit of bodging anything.

Cheers
Tom
 
Where is this washer.
I assume you cut the nut and took the arm off.
Ball joint kit needs a flange nut, bolt and big washer to remove and refit but no washer to be left in once installed?

Drop arm has a lock tab washer and thats it under a 1 and 5/16ths nut bent over the arm and one flat of the nut.

I repeat where is this washer you are talking about :confused:
 
currymunster said:
Where is this washer.
I assume you cut the nut and took the arm off.
Ball joint kit needs a flange nut, bolt and big washer to remove and refit but no washer to be left in once installed?

Drop arm has a lock tab washer and thats it under a 1 and 5/16ths nut bent over the arm and one flat of the nut.

I repeat where is this washer you are talking about :confused:
Click to expand...

presuming he means the plate on the bottom of the drop arm ball joint. You have the upper cup, lower cup, ball, spring, plate (washer?) and circlip iirc.
 
It is all back together 100% as LR intended besides the fact I swapped the washer (which sits under the spring on the drop arm ball joint) for a thinner one.

The huge washer above the big drop arm nut on the spline end is on and bent over yes.

I think there has been some confusion and it is probably my own doing - sorry folks.

Cheers
Tom
 
Last edited:
trax said:
presuming he means the plate on the bottom of the drop arm ball joint. You have the upper cup, lower cup, ball, spring, plate (washer?) and circlip iirc.
Click to expand...

The ball joint I removed had the same pieces as the one I replaced it with and I copied the order like so:

Upper cup-ball joint-lower cup-washer-spring-cover plate-circlip

Tom
 
110widebody said:
The ball joint I removed had the same pieces as the one I replaced it with and I copied the order like so:

Upper cup-ball joint-lower cup-washer-spring-cover plate-circlip

Tom
Click to expand...

tbh i wouldn't worry about it. I'm sure by the time you replaced the balljoint the older item had more slop in it. Just keep an eye on it and check every month or so. Also the rest of the system, tres, bushes and whatever will also have slop with age.

I fitted mine 'properly' and the bottom fell out a year later when going over some fields.. so y'know.
 
trax said:
tbh i wouldn't worry about it. I'm sure by the time you replaced the balljoint the older item had more slop in it. Just keep an eye on it and check every month or so. Also the rest of the system, tres, bushes and whatever will also have slop with age.

I fitted mine 'properly' and the bottom fell out a year later when going over some fields.. so y'know.
Click to expand...

Ta.
Yep the one I replaced was shot - completely!

The new one has zero play, and what a difference it has made already, and I've still to do a rod end.

Cheers
Tom
 
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