Urgent problem with clutch/flywheel when fitting Rover V8 to Series Landy

Hi all,

I have encountered a major problem when I tried to fit my Rover V8 into my Series Landy yesterday. I only have a couple of weeks before I need to move the vehicle (moving to Holland) so it's rather desperate time-wise!

So... I have a Rover V8 with all the usual kit to fit it to a Series Landy; Phillips adapter plate, modified engine mounts, 101 oil filter housing, spigot bush adapter and shortened crank etc.

I fitted the engine yesterday and after much swearing and cutting/welding of the bulkhead, the engine slotted in. I was very relieved! But then I went to press the clutch pedal... solid as a rock. I thought bugger... something has jammed up. After removal of the engine I found the problem. It seems that the clutch was at full travel and thus it couldn't go any further. At full travel it was only pressing the clutch fingers in a mm or two.

I thought I'd just modify the clutch arm but then I did some more measurements. It seems that the gearbox shaft isn't going into the engine/clutch plate far enough. Only the splines only engage on the clutch by less than 10mm. Even less on the spigot bush. That doesn't seem right to me. All in all, I think the clutch/flywheel needs to be 15mm further back to get proper clutch engagement and full depth on the splines.

I am using an SD1 flywheel (narrow) which came with the kit (second hand) and my original Series clutch which is relatively new.

Am I missing something here? Has anyone had this before? I really need a solution in the next few days :S

If anyone could help it would be most appreciated (and many pints bought for you if you live near London!). Posting this on a couple of forums so my apologies if this you see this twice!

Yeah first off do an intro in the right section


Second of all make sure you've actually fitted the adaptor correctly because you have to bodge the crank with a grinder on those stupid adaptors

Make sure you've put the friction disc on the right way too.....

Dr_evil said:

Yeah first off do an intro in the right section


Second of all make sure you've actually fitted the adaptor correctly because you have to bodge the crank with a grinder on those stupid adaptors

Make sure you've put the friction disc on the right way too.....

Click to expand...

Thanks for your reply. Yeah I'll get my intro sorted this week. Just in a bit of a rush with this problem so had to dispense with formalities for the moment! lol

Yeah the crank was already cut when I got it so haven't had to faff with that. The adapter fits on nicely with the crank and flywheel. The ring gear is in the exact location relative to the starter etc so I know that is right.

Hadn't thought about the clutch too much... fairly sure I popped it on the same way it came off the series flywheel but can certainly check. I guess the wrong way round might change the spline contact area but surely it wouldn't affect the distance of the clutch cover (and hence fingers) from the flywheel face?

If the clutch isn't on the right way there's a raised lip on one side which means it can't go on properly

Dr_evil said:

If the clutch isn't on the right way there's a raised lip on one side which means it can't go on properly

Click to expand...

*Pretty* sure I got it on the right way round and the cover plate bolted on nicely so guess it wasn't this? And with the clutch appearing to be around 15mm short of the release bearing (rather than long), I think that isn't the prob... but something to check for sure.

What gearbox you got? There are two flavours of bell housing adaptors; 6 cyl and 4 cyl so could be wrong one? Is your pressure plate a series or a sd1/rrc or something? You should use the series plate and disc to my knowledge. Suppose the other bit could be the fork/bearing end being somehow wrongly fitted or not fitted right?

ronsealdeath said:

What gearbox you got? There are two flavours of bell housing adaptors; 6 cyl and 4 cyl so could be wrong one? Is your pressure plate a series or a sd1/rrc or something? You should use the series plate and disc to my knowledge. Suppose the other bit could be the fork/bearing end being somehow wrongly fitted or not fitted right?

Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply Ronsealdeath

It's the standard Series gearbox (yep, won't last long, but it's a stopgap until I fit my Porsche engine and Toyota gearbox).

Hmmm didn't know there were two bellhousing adapters you could get! Is the bolt pattern etc the same for the 4cyl and 6cyl? If not, any other way I'd be able to tell?

Yes, the pressure plate is a Series 3, along with the disc. Basically everything that people recommend for the conversion normally.

I checked the fork/bearing fully and it was seated properly and operating correctly etc... was my first go to thought. I was just going to modify it the fork so it sat further out but then I found that the gearbox shaft wasn't seating into the clutch/spigot very far which is what stumped me.

I think the stud pattern is different on the adaptors so you should be ok. It sounds like the flywheel isnt sitting proud of the motor enough? Can you try a different flywheel? My kit came with an rrc flywheel which I know is bigger than an sd1 version. As a test you could trial fit theclutch pressure plate with shims/nuts under it to push it rearwards towards the box. Would tell you if thats at fault as a test.
But it could just be as doc evil suggests plate on backwards!

You need a longer release bearing with an sd1 flywheel as its a half inch or so thinner than an rrc flywheel. So either drill and tap an rrc flywheel or source a longer bearing. Id go former as sd1 flywheel wont suit offroading. Its all on here, google is your friend remember!

forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=27687

Also

forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=24779

ronsealdeath said:

You need a longer release bearing with an sd1 flywheel as its a half inch or so thinner than an rrc flywheel. So either drill and tap an rrc flywheel or source a longer bearing. Id go former as sd1 flywheel wont suit offroading. Its all on here, google is your friend remember!

forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=27687

Click to expand...

I think we got to that at the same time Thanks very much though.

The release bearing would certainly cure the clutch problem! The problem was many sites apart from the two you found say that the SD1 flywheel is fine, though they probably fail to mention they use the 2a clutch cover it turns out.

But what still concerns me (and the reason why I dismissed the release bearing idea initiall) is that the gearbox shaft doesn't seem to fit into the engine as far as I'd like. Is this just considered normal that only half the spigot bearing is on the shaft etc?

Dr_evil said:

Yeah first off do an intro in the right section

Click to expand...

Voila!

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f20/h...re-have-pics-my-racer-250793.html#post2967399

crayefish said:

I think we got to that at the same time Thanks very much though.

The release bearing would certainly cure the clutch problem! The problem was many sites apart from the two you found say that the SD1 flywheel is fine, though they probably fail to mention they use the 2a clutch cover it turns out.

But what still concerns me (and the reason why I dismissed the release bearing idea initiall) is that the gearbox shaft doesn't seem to fit into the engine as far as I'd like. Is this just considered normal that only half the spigot bearing is on the shaft etc?

Click to expand...

I think your sd1 flywheel will work with a longer bearing but you may be not be sitting nicely on the spigot bush with your input shaft? I cant remember how it all goes but if you used a thicker rrc flywheel would it not push your bush and clutch plate further into the gbox input shaft? Thats my thinking but I could be talking bollox. I would ditch the sd1 flywheel as you could pick up an rrc one for peanuts and drill and tap to suit. A local shop would do it for you if you havent got a drill press etc. Im not certain but my milner philkips kit said to do this and didnt mention a sd1 flywheel even tho they are same bolt pattern as series clutch. Good luck

ronsealdeath said:

I think your sd1 flywheel will work with a longer bearing but you may be not be sitting nicely on the spigot bush with your input shaft? I cant remember how it all goes but if you used a thicker rrc flywheel would it not push your bush and clutch plate further into the gbox input shaft? Thats my thinking but I could be talking bollox. I would ditch the sd1 flywheel as you could pick up an rrc one for peanuts and drill and tap to suit. A local shop would do it for you if you havent got a drill press etc. Im not certain but my milner philkips kit said to do this and didnt mention a sd1 flywheel even tho they are same bolt pattern as series clutch. Good luck

Click to expand...

You're half right It would push the clutch further out but not the spigot bearing (sits behind the flywheel). I was a little worried about the level of engagement with the splines but after much research it seems people have used the SD1 flywheel successfully so guess it's ok. And I won't be putting huge amounts of torque anyway (though the IR system does give me pretty good torque low down).

Yeah in an ideal world I'd get my 4x4 flywheel drilled and pinned but haven't really got the time. Plus my off road driving style is not the 'pootling around near idle' type that suits a large flywheel. I tend to rev the nuts off it and drive at speed So I think the lighter flywheel will suit. But that's not the case I can also swap it out later when I have more time.

Sorted, I wasnt sure how the spigot attached. Enjoy your v8.