Urgent help needed - p38

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Datatek said:
. It could be a duff rectifier diode in the alternator is producing interferance that is confusing the ECU's.
Click to expand...


Spot on, and to test that, fully charge the battery, then unplug the alternator - take it round the block, if everything's fine (other than the battery warning light on!) then your alternator is fooked.
 
Well my auto electrician has checked the electronics and despite a few codes coming up everything was communicating, the alternator was charging with no problems and the battery seems fine as well. He checked the BeCM and could find no faults there either. The fact that at the moment of everything going AWOL there was a sound like a fan belt shredding (but the belts are all there and fine) it makes me think that something mechanical has failed and may have put the car into a limp home mode, does that sound feasable to you guys?
I recently had the engine out in order to change it and as part of doing all of that work I changed the auto gearbox oil and filter and while the engine was out we had to change the torque convertor, as the replacement engine came from a BMW 325tds, for the original Range Rover one and emptied the fluid from it in the process.
I'm wondering if the gearbox has had a fit and died, locking in whatever gear it was in at the time, put the car in a limp home mode and as a result it's messing up all the other electronics, what do you think?
Am I right in thinking the gearbox is a 4 speed ZF HP22 and is it the same one as in the 4.0 and is it the same one used in the Classic or is it different (apart from a different bell housing for the BMW M51 diesel engine)?
 
Someone else can answer about the gearbox but one question springs to mind - when you changed the engine what did you do about the injector pump? Did you use the p38 pump or the 325 pump with the p38 top electronics bit?
 
I used the 325 pump with P38 top section, however before all the issues are aimed at that and whether it is set up 100% accurately, although I understand why it would raise eyebrows, but that is all working fine, the top half hasn't moved since fitting, and the signals there are apparantly fine as well.
 
B16FUN said:
Well my auto electrician has checked the electronics and despite a few codes coming up everything was communicating, the alternator was charging with no problems and the battery seems fine as well. He checked the BeCM and could find no faults there either. The fact that at the moment of everything going AWOL there was a sound like a fan belt shredding (but the belts are all there and fine) it makes me think that something mechanical has failed and may have put the car into a limp home mode, does that sound feasable to you guys?
I recently had the engine out in order to change it and as part of doing all of that work I changed the auto gearbox oil and filter and while the engine was out we had to change the torque convertor, as the replacement engine came from a BMW 325tds, for the original Range Rover one and emptied the fluid from it in the process.
I'm wondering if the gearbox has had a fit and died, locking in whatever gear it was in at the time, put the car in a limp home mode and as a result it's messing up all the other electronics, what do you think?
Am I right in thinking the gearbox is a 4 speed ZF HP22 and is it the same one as in the 4.0 and is it the same one used in the Classic or is it different (apart from a different bell housing for the BMW M51 diesel engine)?
Click to expand...

That sounds like shorted turns on the alternator field coils, there was a thread a while back where that proved to be the case.:)
 
The alternator itself is perfectly quiet though. We're startng to thing that it is the crankshaft positional sensor that has failed although there may be a mechanical reason that caused this (flywheel/torque convertor/gearbox).
Could anyone advise the correct part number for the replacement sensor and is it specific to the range rover or was it used on the BMW 325/525 diesels as well?
Thanks,
Andy.
 
Am I right in thinking the gearbox is a 4 speed ZF HP22 and is it the same one as in the 4.0 and is it the same one used in the Classic or is it different (apart from a differentbell housing for the BMW M51 diesel engine)?
 
basically the same but casings and a good few internals are different ,share basic clutches and epicylics ,classic is mechanically controlled p38 electronicaly controlled
 
Cheers for that. So, the classic is not an option however, is the 4.0 P38 auto box interchangeable with the DSE one? I know they're both the ZH HP22 but want to check there are no differences as if I do need to change mine then I've seen more 4.0 boxes available than DSE's.
 
B16FUN said:
Cheers for that. So, the classic is not an option however, is the 4.0 P38 auto box interchangeable with the DSE one? I know they're both the ZH HP22 but want to check there are no differences as if I do need to change mine then I've seen more 4.0 boxes available than DSE's.
Click to expand...

AS far as I'm aware they are the same. PM jamesmartin he'll know for sure:)
 
Well, I've just taken the original crank position sensor out and..... the end has been smashed off! NOT good! So, I think the engine will have to come back out to figure out what has caused it. BUGGER!
 
B16FUN said:
Well, I've just taken the original crank position sensor out and..... the end has been smashed off! NOT good! So, I think the engine will have to come back out to figure out what has caused it. BUGGER!
Click to expand...

Either the engine or the box. Sounds like something is breaking up and bits are flying round in the bell housing:eek:
 
I don't things are breaking up in the bell housing as there are no untoward noises with it running (although I'm not doing that right now for obvious reasons) there was just the original noise when it went wrong and then no other noises. I'm wondering if the flywheel/torque convertor have shifted for some reason causing it to come into contact with the end of the sensor.
This is what it looks like next to a spare I have;
IMG_0059.jpg
[/IMG]

IMG_0061.jpg
 
Well, nearly got the engine out and I noticed, having taken the starter motor out that one of the six pickup pins on the flywheel has sheared off, presumably having come into contact with the crankshaft positional sensor while driving. We turned the engine over by hand a few times and the flyweel isn't missaligned (or doesn't seem like it is at the moment) it would appear that one of the pickup pins (which are a splined interference fit) has come loose, shifted and come into contact with the end of the sensor, smashing it to bits. I have a spare flywheel from a BMW 325 tds (which this engine came from), does anybody know if it is interchangable for the Range Rover one? I know the ring gear is the same as the BMW starter motor is the same as the Range Rover one. If it isn't then I intend to use one of the pins from the BMW flywheel to replace the sheared one on the Range Rover flywheel.
Incidentally, has anyone had this problem or heard of it happening before?
Cheers,
Andy.
 
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