Urgent help needed - p38

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B

B16FUN

Active Member
Posts
239
Location
Stockport, South Manchester
Good evening (although I'm not so sure about the good right now!),
Whilst driving my wife's 1994 P38 DSE earlier I heard a noise that sort of sounded like a fan belt coming loose and then all of a sudden I got alternator fault, gearbox fault (it would no longer change gears from what I think was third - it's an auto), the rev counter dropped to zero, all of the air suspension level lights came on along with the fixed ride height light despite the button not being pressed, and when I pulled over I found the throttle was holding at around 2 thousand rpm but wouldn't settle from this. It would however rev up and drop back to what I think is around 2k with no problems and will switch off and restart with no problems but as soon as it starts it revs back to around 2k so I'm completely confused!
My friend who is a mechanic has suggesed that mayb the alternator has failed and so the drop in voltage is throwing all of the other issues up whilst the engine is trying to rev in order to make up for the drop in voltage. What do the knowledgable people on here think, I need to figure this out ASAP so please, any help would be greatly appreciated!
By the way, I'm in Stockport but the car is currently just outside Macclesfield.
Thanks,
Andy.
 
I've know that the low amps will through fault messages up but would it also cause the gearbox to stick in a gear and not change and the EAS to stop working? I think it sounds good but then if it's just a replacement alternator I'll be more than happy!
 
Cheers for that. I don't mean to sound stupid but may I check I just need to put the contacts across the main terminals underneith the cover on the back of the alternator where the wires are attached? I have no problems with mechanics but automotive electronics are not my favourite thing!
Thanks for all the posts!
 
I think that due to the electrical problems it has gone into a "get you home mode".
I have had something similar with my DSE - autobox locked in third, engine won't rev, EAS locks up.
If it is your alternator, once you have fixed it and recharged your battery it should clear.
 
Well, I ended up with the AA out to the Rangie and had them check the aternator and it was putting out 13.9 so it doesn't appear to be that. It will rev up and down with no problems but idles at what I think sounds like 2k/2.5k (as the rev counter idn;t working I don;t know for sure) and then there are the problems with the other systems, gearbox refusing to change any gears although I can put it in and out of park, neutral and drive but if I can get it moving then it will not change out of what feels like third/fourth, all EAS lights being on including the lock button despte it not being pressed and the EAS compressor is not triggering, and the dash throwing all the fault messages up, the injector warning light is on and the rev counter not working.
Anyone any more suggestions?
 
ONLY IF YOU HAVE YOUR EKA CODE and your radio code.

As you're that deep in the sticky brown stuff might I suggest that you disconnect your battery. If you have a charger you could then try charging it up. Leave the battery off as long as you can to let all the electronics discharge, an absolute minimum of 30 minutes. Then re-connect the battery and offer up a little prayer to the ghost of Joe Lucas.
 
I've not touched the BECM yet, terrified of the bloody thing! With regards to the EKA code, yes, I have that and I took the battery off last night, charged it and refitted it this morning prior to resorting to the AA for recovery as I'd thought the same thing about discharging the electrical circuits and no joy. The wierdest thing about the whole thing is the fact that when I start it it holds the high RPM but will stil rev up and down as if everything is ok from the throttle pedal.
My auto-electrician has suggested that if the main electrical circuits have lost a main earth then that could result in these sorts of issues, what do you think?
Cheers again for the replies.
 
It's worth a nose as, obviously, a good earth is necessary to complete the circuit. However I think that it's time to get it onto a 'proper' diagnostic system.
 
Ok, anybody in the Stockport or Manchester area who is mobile (the car is not driveable in it's current state) and could let me know what they charge per hour to look at it with a proper diagnostic system should I have no luck with my auto electrician tomorrow? Depending on what the costs are depends on whether I can afford to continue trying to sort the P38 out or if I sell it as spares or repair and loose a big chunk of cash that is invested in it.
Cheers.
 
I've read a few other threads and a bloke has been mentioned several times called Doug who seems to either work for or run a buisness called Module Control. I happened to find him on e-bay offerng work on the BeCM. I described all of the symptoms and he seems to also think it's an earthing problem to the BeCM. If you want to find him on eBay his member name is star-srekin.
Andy.
 
Look at the battery cables, they have been known to corrode inside the sleeving. Check the earths to the engine block, check the underbonnet fuse box for signs or smells of burning. 13.9 volts is not that good, with the engine running at 2K I would expect at least 14.3 volts. It could be a duff rectifier diode in the alternator is producing interferance that is confusing the ECU's.
 
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