URGENT HELP! ferry goes tommorow! engine problem

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
i am getting nothing from operating the lever. no resistant and no fuel. i think i am going to remove it and make sure it hasn't snapped internally and check the fuel pipes.
 
steve bain said:
i think we may be getting somewhere! i removed the top banjo on the fuel filter and pumped the little lever on the mechanical fuel pump. nothing. so i removed the inlet into the filter. nothing. checked fuel level by looking into tank and there is fuel, so could it be that the fuel pipe is blocked.

at this point i should mention i replaced the fuel tank about a month ago but with no problems. the fuel currntly in there is about 2 days old and we have already used half a tank.

i'm going to try priming it as you say with it all connected up. next i think i am going to make sure the pick up pipe isn't blocked.

cheers for the advice. it is massively appreciated!!
Click to expand...

If it still won't get any pressure when priming with the lever, give the ignition key a quick flick to let the engine turn over. (Sometimes it stops in such a way that it won't allow priming). If after doing this it still gets no resistance in it then I would start checking all the fuel pipes, ESPECIALLY the ones you disturbed around the fuel tank area. You may want to check the fuel pick-up too.
 
fuel pump is off and works. it feels completely different to use. also blew through the fuel supply pipe to the pump and there was pressue and then bang it all blew through. i'm hoping that may be it. i'm going to put it all back together and prime it. fingers crossed
 
steve bain said:
fuel pump is off and works. it feels completely different to use. also blew through the fuel supply pipe to the pump and there was pressue and then bang it all blew through. i'm hoping that may be it. i'm going to put it all back together and prime it. fingers crossed
Click to expand...

If it does work you really need to find what it was that got stuck in the pipe and remove it from the tank. A few years ago I had a problem with a truck losing power and cutting out under load. It turned out that some muppet had attatched the filter on the end of the fuel pick-up by wrapping insulation tape around the pipe to make it a tighter fit. The filter dropped off and over time so did the insulation tape. Everytime the truck was under load the insulation tape was sucked up the pick-up pipe and coiled like a spring. After a few minutes it would fall back out until the next time.
 
no joy. i had to turn the engine to be able to prime the pump and i think it was a red herring. there is continuity between the fuel solenoid terminal and the chassis when the wire is disconnected. is this correct?
 
going from what you said i would check what is blocking your pipe if anything, remove whatever it was and make sure it cannot cause more issues, change the filter and meter the solonoid should get a resistance reading for the coil. If it has shorted to earth i.e no resistance or very little, then that may well be the problem. Like shorting to earth and create a nice big spark if you connect a live to it. If so change it, its a cheap item always worth carrying a spare when on a long trip.
Has it been getting harder to start latley?
When we had a solonoid go it was lazy for about 3 days then it wouldnt operate at all. The only thing to stop a working diesel starting is fuel lack of or absolutly no air. I would be checking your solonoid it should make a slight click when connected as before if the solonoid is shorted to earth then it will arc like mad when you go to connect it.
hope this helps Jai
 
oh fuel to the injectors means that the fuel pump and solonoid is working as it should are you 100% fuel is gettinh to the injectors? Jai
 
all done!! pulley opposite tensioner had gone and berings were sitting in bottom of case. the ring was still there though an kept just enough tension to keep everything running. so i was right, yay, the cm belt had skipped a tooth!

thank you all for your help it is more appreciated than you would ever know. will post pics later but need to get it all back together now.

anyone thinking about putting of cabelt change, dont. i did and have paid the price of missing a day of my holidays and having an angry missus. i started the cambelt no more than an hour ago. it was very very easy.

Steve
 
well. its not fixed yet! looks like we are going to have to take the other car.

i did the work using this guide.

Removing/replacing a 200TDi timing chest - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum

i am pretty sure i got it right. but it won't start. it turns over and kicks our serious and i mean serious amounts of black smoke. the battey is starting to die now too. any ideas? someone said i could have the crank 360 degree out.

the only damage done was to the idler pulley which will have caused the engine to die. so do you reckon i got the timing wrong? that would be typical!! i can't see a reason why it won't start. it stopped due timing being out, timing is now correct so it should start shouldn't it?
 
i think i messed up on the timing. partly not understanding it fully and part rushing. it will have to wait till i get back now. i'll go out, buy a haynes, and go through it meticulously and it will hopefully work.
 
i'm back from france and had a great time! you will notice from my picture that the landy never made it and i took my other car!

DSCN1578.jpg


heres the damage that was done.

DSCN1542.jpg


DSCN1541.jpg


i am pretty sure it is all timed up right, i got a haynes and did it exactly as the haynes manual stated execpt i didn't time it. when i first tried it was kicking out tons of black smoke. after reading the haynes i adjusted the timing accuractely and the smoke has gone now and looks normal colour that i would expect. but it won't start and to be honest it doesn't sound like it is planning on it either.

my battery is now struggling. does it need to be at top performance to start it?

i am tempted to take it all apart again to double check. i can obviously work out tdc of the crank and locate the injector timing correctly. how can i check the cam shaft is in the right place without taking it all to bits. any other ideas?

i'm tempted to get a mobile mechanic out now as in my experience in the past it is usually something really silly and takes them 2 seconds to sort.

as always, any help is very much appreciated.

Steve
 
not had a derv landy but had lots of other oil burners and the only ingredients you need are air fuel and compression.. all at the right time.. if your fuel pump is timed right, your top and bottom are timed right and you definitely haven't lost compression (through a bent valve or two for example) then try sticking a jump lead on it from a decent size running engine and see if that works.. a weak battery can stop the engine turning over fast enough to fire.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

B
FL2 - Alternator belt gone but engine stopped?
Replies
16
Views
1K
pwood999
pwood999
T
td5 engine power loss
Replies
7
Views
625
transpalette84
T
O
Electrical - starting fault/issue (seeking help/advice) - 1996 Defender 110 300TDI
2
Replies
27
Views
1K
tottot
tottot
B
FL2 now a 'total loss'...what is the process for buying back?
2
Replies
23
Views
2K
Buel10
B
T
AC belt 2002 Td4-urgent
Replies
9
Views
813
The Pilgrim
T
Back
Top