Uprated strength front axle

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jai_landrover

Well-Known Member
Posts
13,407
Location
Luton
Has anyone successfully and neatly fitted early 90/110 CV's to a series axle?

Not interested in fitting a Coiler axle because there is no nice way to do it. Every way has limitations and as the motor is to be used in comp safari racing aswell as trials and will be a twitchy 80 inch I have no interest in fighting another problem caused by compromoising on angles of the dangles.

So has anyone fitted CV's to their existing series swivel housing??


We should be looking into this in the next few weeks because it needs to happen to get a far stronger front end.

Shafts can be sort but are not cheap £240 each but unbreakable.
 
Ish parts are silly money.

I'd like to fit £29 cv's I can machine spacers and bushes no probs upto 8 inch dia.

was thinking that late series III's and 90's use the same bearings bearing spacing and seals so the outside of the CV is the same as a 90. Bare with me......

If I could fit an early 90 stub axle to a series housing assuming I could space shim the CV in the correct place (Had a quick look looks close tbh) I would be on my way to getting a strong axle. I have no interest in loosing the drum brakes they will work ok for my needs just getting the Cv's to fit and buy some HD shafts.
 
Stub axle for a stage 1 is somthing like £144 each NLA,
Shafts are expensive (might aswell buy uprated ones)
CV's againm are silly silly money if you can buy them and I believe the cv's and stubs are not too dissimilar to the early 90 ones.
 
if length was the same ,diff 24 spline is no issue stub axle to hold cv might be ,salisbury front would be strongest obviously but why not coil axle with spring locators welded on
 
trying to get a salisbury is hard and costly spares are not cheap and it has low ground clearance and really heavy.

Coil axle with spring locators welded on, track rod fouls the spring people add wedges (looses ground clearance) peopl rotate axle loosing steering angles.

No nice way......

If I can fit early cv's cv's in I'll happily spend on 300M shafts no std staft will fit except possibly maybe stage 1's which are expensive rare and not strong at all.

I have the later series III axle fitted max ground clearance of series axle casings rear salisbury is getting reworked so a change of shaft will enable the diff to be locked for different types of comps open short shaft locked long shaft.

Need to get onto this front end I can carry generic spares for my 90 comp motor cheap and strongest available. A bit of faffing with spacers bushes is no problem. have lathe and milling machine to make up stuff.
 
I want to build once abuse and not have to spend out for hard to find or bespoke parts.


Things like the shafts are super strong and should take abuse upto silly size tyres 38 inch where I will only ever be fitting 33/34 inch and should last forever.
 
shafts and splines arent easy to alter but not impossible ,steering arms can be cut off and new pendant type made for top pin
 
From the parts manual no support for the inner shaft only a spacer and circlip to locate into CV.

The CV has a bush to support the shaft but manual shows a bearing inside stub. Last time I saw a stubaxle Twas a while ago mind I don't remember seeing a bearing inside.

Guess I need to get a 90 and series side by side on the bench and have a look see. I think by mixing and matching parts and some machining it shouldn't be too hard to make 90 stubs fit and use early CV's

Will update when I know........................................
 
width is no issue I can get shafts outter drive member to uj centre and drive member to CV centre are equal inner shaft dictates width and shorter upgraded shafts are obtainable
 
let us know how you get on ,id have to have all parts in front of me with series /def combo

Ditto that, I'm often asked mad questions about stuff, especially bikes, it's very hard over the phone or internet to say yes or no..
Touchy feely is the best way:D:D

Interested to see the results though :D
 
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