Unknown electric fault after battery change

Ukhan · May 23, 2022

Hi all,
So bought my new l322 but sad to report so far it’s been a mind numbing last three weeks, and so frustrated to see the beauty in the drive not able to move. So when I bought the car we had a leak and mechanic said it was the water pump, In trying to get the water pump out he damaged the thermostat housing and the secondary fuel pump screw… all of which have been replaced. Old battery was a bit knackered so put in a new battery too…

but now after everything has been done, car won’t start. !! Key is locking and unlocking door and ignition is working, car is cranking but won’t start. When mechanic uses a easy starter spray the car roars up until spray finishes. Got computer plugged in and it was showing immobiliser fault along with others I will try and a attach them (can’t attach all the pics). Any help would be really appreciated as I’m really gutted about the beauty not able to go anywhere!

badfluffy · May 23, 2022

it wont run with an immobiliser in fault

saxavordian · May 23, 2022

If you are spraying it then no fuel coming through. You just do the same as injection spray fuel. Was there any faults before mechanics clod hopping fist got to it. Did the car run okay before.
As you say the battery was older so the vehicle had a shock when the new one added. When you took the older battery off did you allow the computer system to drain capacity.

badfluffy · May 23, 2022

more to the point from the sounds of it you need a proper mechanic

Ukhan · May 24, 2022

badfluffy said:
more to the point from the sounds of it you need a proper mechanic

amen to that, might have a found a Range Rover specialist … wish it had been earlier

Ukhan · May 24, 2022

badfluffy said:
it wont run with an immobiliser in fault

So you think it’s most likely that? And I think to get rid of it either I need some reprogramming. Clearing the fault code didn’t allow the car to start

Ukhan · May 24, 2022

saxavordian said:
If you are spraying it then no fuel coming through. You just do the same as injection spray fuel. Was there any faults before mechanics clod hopping fist got to it. Did the car run okay before.
As you say the battery was older so the vehicle had a shock when the new one added. When you took the older battery off did you allow the computer system to drain capacity.

Car was running well before mechanic started to fix the water leak I had, water pump…. Tbh the mechanic put the battery in and I was at work at the time so not sure how he done it. In regards to ‘You just do the same as injection spray fuel.’ What do you suggest I do?

saxavordian · May 24, 2022

Ukhan said:
Car was running well before mechanic started to fix the water leak I had, water pump…. Tbh the mechanic put the battery in and I was at work at the time so not sure how he done it. In regards to ‘You just do the same as injection spray fuel.’ What do you suggest I do?

By some reason the fuel not get through so the computer information is key.
What is failing. Could be a sensor or solinoid or immobilizer still active to prevent system working.

Ukhan · May 24, 2022

saxavordian said:
By some reason the fuel not get through so the computer information is key.
What is failing. Could be a sensor or solinoid or immobilizer still active to prevent system working.

Yes that is the problem the fuel is not getting through the system like it should… p1623 immobiliser fault code is showing in diagnostic machine (attached)… along with other fault codes

Grrrrrr · May 25, 2022

Certainly sounds immobilised.

I suspect you might need dedicated Land Rover diag to reset it but I know nothing about the L322. If you check the Landyzone International Rescue Map there may be a member nearby with diag, although it depends on the year for the L322.

It wouldn't surprise me if there isn't a very specific way of taking the battery off on the L322. It might have thought someone was trying to steal it and immobilised itself. Might be worth reading the manual and aee if there are instructions in there.

Hopefully someone with experience of the L322 like @Saint.V8 will be along soon.

Datatek · May 25, 2022

As a

Grrrrrr said:
Certainly sounds immobilised.

I suspect you might need dedicated Land Rover diag to reset it but I know nothing about the L322. If you check the Landyzone International Rescue Map there may be a member nearby with diag, although it depends on the year for the L322.

It wouldn't surprise me if there isn't a very specific way of taking the battery off on the L322. It might have thought someone was trying to steal it and immobilised itself. Might be worth reading the manual and aee if there are instructions in there.

Hopefully someone with experience of the L322 like @Saint.V8 will be along soon.

As above, with that fault there it will not start. Maybe you mech has dislodged a wire

Ukhan · May 25, 2022

Grrrrrr said:
Certainly sounds immobilised.

I suspect you might need dedicated Land Rover diag to reset it but I know nothing about the L322. If you check the Landyzone International Rescue Map there may be a member nearby with diag, although it depends on the year for the L322.

It wouldn't surprise me if there isn't a very specific way of taking the battery off on the L322. It might have thought someone was trying to steal it and immobilised itself. Might be worth reading the manual and aee if there are instructions in there.

Hopefully someone with experience of the L322 like @Saint.V8 will be along soon.

It would be great if I could find someone that has the diag for the 07 3.6 tdv8. Because I think it does need to be reset as you say. If you know of any members around the Bedfordshire area let me know please, or they may even see this post and reach out, fingers crossed.

I was going to get a remote electrician to have a look at her, but now after this last experience I think I’m going to wait till Friday and get her towed to a Land Rover specialist and let them try and figure it out and reset the fault codes.

Ukhan · May 25, 2022

Datatek said:
As a

As above, with that fault there it will not start. Maybe you mech has dislodged a wire

Tbh after the numerous things that I’ve had to replace, this is a real possibility. But as you say until this code is cleared ain’t no way she will fire up.

Saint.V8 · May 25, 2022

What is the fuel rail pressure and supply pump pressure?

I ask as I am sure that the immobiliser code *may* be an anomaly as I am sure I used to always have this code on my L322's (albeit written slightly differently due to a different diagnostic device - might have to see if I have screen shot of it somewhere!).

Regarding fuel pressures, if the rail pressure is too low or the supply pump to the HP pump pressure is too low, it won't fire up - if the pressures can be maintained after using easy start (or similar) then it will remain running....if ther eis a fuel pressure leak, the engine will die. I had this on an M57 engine - wouldn't start on cranking, but a squirt up the intake and it would fire up and run....this was due to a pressure leak from 3 injectors....once running it was running fast enough to keep the fuel pressure up, but couldn't generate the required pressure during cranking due to the the leak-off from the injectors.

If the fuel pressure is too low due to pressure regulator failure or other such, then it may not fire up and run....

Check the wiring to the pressure regulating valve, to the pressure sensor and ensure you have fuel flow to the filter and HP pump.

I am not sure on the TDV8 engine, but if the immobiliser wasn't happen, it won't even crank I should think!

tomcat59alan · May 25, 2022

Ukhan said:
It would be great if I could find someone that has the diag for the 07 3.6 tdv8. Because I think it does need to be reset as you say. If you know of any members around the Bedfordshire area let me know please, or they may even see this post and reach out, fingers crossed.

I was going to get a remote electrician to have a look at her, but now after this last experience I think I’m going to wait till Friday and get her towed to a Land Rover specialist and let them try and figure it out and reset the fault codes.

Read your manual,if you're towing it I think you have to insert a fuse to put the transfer box in neutral so you don't do any damage, least you have to with the P38.

Ukhan · May 25, 2022

Saint.V8 said:
What is the fuel rail pressure and supply pump pressure?

I ask as I am sure that the immobiliser code *may* be an anomaly as I am sure I used to always have this code on my L322's (albeit written slightly differently due to a different diagnostic device - might have to see if I have screen shot of it somewhere!).

Regarding fuel pressures, if the rail pressure is too low or the supply pump to the HP pump pressure is too low, it won't fire up - if the pressures can be maintained after using easy start (or similar) then it will remain running....if ther eis a fuel pressure leak, the engine will die. I had this on an M57 engine - wouldn't start on cranking, but a squirt up the intake and it would fire up and run....this was due to a pressure leak from 3 injectors....once running it was running fast enough to keep the fuel pressure up, but couldn't generate the required pressure during cranking due to the the leak-off from the injectors.

If the fuel pressure is too low due to pressure regulator failure or other such, then it may not fire up and run....

Check the wiring to the pressure regulating valve, to the pressure sensor and ensure you have fuel flow to the filter and HP pump.

I am not sure on the TDV8 engine, but if the immobiliser wasn't happen, it won't even crank I should think!

Thanks for the reply bud. Trouble is I have no idea how to check these pressures (fully disclosure I am not the most mechanically minded person on earth, am trying to be though!). Most of what I’ve been told has been through the mechanic. The garage I was going to get it towed to don’t have any availability at all. So I think I’ll just give the AA a call and explain the situation and maybe they can help with diagnosing so I can actually Get her moving!

pete12345 · May 25, 2022

Hopefully they have the right diagnostics it’s probley got to rr specific

badfluffy · May 26, 2022

just a thought, the battery might be a red herein, could he have dislodged damaged something else whilst changing water pump?

Ukhan · May 26, 2022

badfluffy said:
just a thought, the battery might be a red herein, could he have dislodged damaged something else whilst changing water pump?

Apart from the thermostat housing and a screw in the secondary fuel pump… I suppose it is very possible. I just need it seen properly I think by some mechanic / electrician to confirm what the actual issue is

Ukhan · May 27, 2022

Saint.V8 said:
What is the fuel rail pressure and supply pump pressure?

I ask as I am sure that the immobiliser code *may* be an anomaly as I am sure I used to always have this code on my L322's (albeit written slightly differently due to a different diagnostic device - might have to see if I have screen shot of it somewhere!).

Regarding fuel pressures, if the rail pressure is too low or the supply pump to the HP pump pressure is too low, it won't fire up - if the pressures can be maintained after using easy start (or similar) then it will remain running....if ther eis a fuel pressure leak, the engine will die. I had this on an M57 engine - wouldn't start on cranking, but a squirt up the intake and it would fire up and run....this was due to a pressure leak from 3 injectors....once running it was running fast enough to keep the fuel pressure up, but couldn't generate the required pressure during cranking due to the the leak-off from the injectors.

If the fuel pressure is too low due to pressure regulator failure or other such, then it may not fire up and run....

Check the wiring to the pressure regulating valve, to the pressure sensor and ensure you have fuel flow to the filter and HP pump.

I am not sure on the TDV8 engine, but if the immobiliser wasn't happen, it won't even crank I should think!

So what you were saying was right! Your experience speaks volumes!
So had an electrician come out and he has found the fault as the rail pressure whilst using the diagnostic machine (p0191 and also p0001). He also checked if the engine was turning over (I can’t remember the exact term) and it was cranking…. But the rail pressure just stayed at 2 or 3. Do you have any idea how I can fix this…. It’s very possible the mechanic i used who damaged the secondary pump has done something which has caused this…. Really appreciate any help on this!

Unknown electric fault after battery change

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