Undertray bolts stuck + jack stand points

Hello all!

Just bought a 2012 Freelander 2 TD4 Diesel SE a couple months ago. Car has good service history, only driven 130,000km.

1. I'm trying to change coolant, but can't undo any of the 6 bolts for the front undertray. Tried to hammer out rust, heat up bolts, spray with WD-40, different wrenches, etc. Can't even get any to turn 0.00001%. All 6 are jammed. Starting to wonder if this is normal? Spent 2 hours trying to undo any of the 6 bolts and got nowhere. Bolts even gaslighted me into watching a wrench tutorial again to see if I was doing it correctly

2. I applied two jack stands to "2" below. Except the one on the front right side of car collapsed into the point a little bit and now the point on car looks damaged and dented into itself. Starting to wonder if this guide below is correct as never had that on a car before. I've seen the Haynes video at 0:37 here:

They apply the stand to a point that's not in the guide below. And completely ignore number 2. I also don't see a number 3 point anywhere so I assume this guide below is not for a 2012 Freelander 2. I also jack the car up at point 1 with my trolley jack, then can't fit my jack stand in point 2 because the trolley jack is in the way anyway, so have to angle the trolley jack sideways and still, the stand barely has room to be placed at point 2. I believe I'm jacking the car up incorrectly, but I'm following the guides/videos 100% so unsure what it is that's wrong. How does everyone else jack the car up?

Thanks for your time

No not normal for the undertray bolts to be seized. It's probably had the oil sucked out, rather than drained via the sump plug. If the sump guard is removed every oil change, they don't have time to rust in, but also a bit lubrication on them when refitting doesn't go amiss.

The rear subframe mounting bolt head can be used for support, but the correct type of stand is needed. I use blocks of wood for supporting vehicles, as they conform to the body a bit, spreading the load over a larger area than stands.
Also use a trolley jack with a large rubber topped platform, not the tiny all metal head jacks available from car discount stores.
Jacking points No2 are for a specific shape of jack, and shouldn't be use for lifting or supporting, unless you have the correct shape platform.

These are not jacking points and or supports, but if they are you as above use in conjunction with a piece of flat would to spread the load.
1

Again as stated above the original jacking point is used with the correct jack that come with the car.
2

The under tray bolts will most likely need a breaker bar and a length of tube to get them moving, also best to have the car on ramps if you can while undoing them, once removed clean threads and add some copper grease before putting back on the car.
3

4

You can use the subframe to jack the front corners up, where the two bolts are, using a trolley jack minimum 2.5tonnes
5

6

7

Depending how fussy you are, a decent size hole below the front 2 under tray bolts means you can get socket direct onto bolt, although it is possible to get to it bending the plastic down. You don't loose too much skin and it grows back fairly quickly. Just seen this is a fl2 so not sure where the bolts are. Breaker bar and six sided socket. Clean threads out with tap and die set so you can put them in hy hand.

J_D said:

Depending how fussy you are, a decent size hole below the front 2 under tray bolts means you can get socket direct onto bolt, although it is possible to get to it bending the plastic down. You don't loose too much skin and it grows back fairly quickly. Just seen this is a fl2 so not sure where the bolts are. Breaker bar and six sided socket. Clean threads out with tap and die set so you can put them in hy hand.

Click to expand...

Freelander 2 under belly tray are easy to access x 6 two at the back, same in the middle, and two at the front.
1

Size 13mm six sided bolts.
2

3

bolts go into a clip not the body of the car.

Thanks for all the responses!

So update: I applied WD-40 to all six bolts on the undertray. Went to use a normal socket wrench to undo the first bolt and the socket completely snapped as soon as I got my first bit of movement. Seems whichever mechanic worked on this car before I bought it used a NASA standard 50,000,000Nm Rattle Gun to seal these bolts shut. So guess I'll be off to spend $200 on a rattle gun to undo six bolts and then hopefully store accepts return on the rattle gun as I don't really need it for any other work on the car.

Also to update on jack points, see new image below.



Red circles on the front are where it seems I should be placing jack stands. But the guide indicates the blue instead. So yeah very confusing. I also marked a red X at the front. I don't have any part shaped like this on my 2012 Freelander 2 at all. Car looks completely different in this section. Maybe I'm not looking at it right but I can't see where to place the trolley jack on mine. I'll take a photo in the morning when I jack it up.

The rear jacks fine. The red circles above are where the guide tells you to put trolley (middle) or jack stands (each side) and works perfectly.

Stands I'm using are below. Each stand can hold 1500kg and I have four of them so that's more than enough for this car's load.

Personally i think your money would be better spent on purchasing these below and they will last you for ever if looked after.

1/2 tools


3/4 tools.

Arctic2 said:

Personally i think your money would be better spent on purchasing these below and they will last you for ever if looked after.

Pardon our interruption...

Pardon our interruption...

Click to expand...

Yep agree! I was using a non heavy duty socket. I'm in Australia though, but I'll find some heavy duty ones here.

My preferred way to work under the cat is to put it on four ramps.
1

2

being doing this for years.
sometimes in conjunction with axle stands.
3

4

Used same method on all my cars i have had over the years.

But sometimes it does call for axle stands.

candyshakes said:

Thanks for all the responses!

So update: I applied WD-40 to all six bolts on the undertray. Went to use a normal socket wrench to undo the first bolt and the socket completely snapped as soon as I got my first bit of movement. Seems whichever mechanic worked on this car before I bought it used a NASA standard 50,000,000Nm Rattle Gun to seal these bolts shut. So guess I'll be off to spend $200 on a rattle gun to undo six bolts and then hopefully store accepts return on the rattle gun as I don't really need it for any other work on the car.

Also to update on jack points, see new image below.

View attachment 348732

Red circles on the front are where it seems I should be placing jack stands. But the guide indicates the blue instead. So yeah very confusing. I also marked a red X at the front. I don't have any part shaped like this on my 2012 Freelander 2 at all. Car looks completely different in this section. Maybe I'm not looking at it right but I can't see where to place the trolley jack on mine. I'll take a photo in the morning when I jack it up.

The rear jacks fine. The red circles above are where the guide tells you to put trolley (middle) or jack stands (each side) and works perfectly.

Stands I'm using are below. Each stand can hold 1500kg and I have four of them so that's more than enough for this car's load.

View attachment 348733

Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure I've read that the blue sections were shown by mistake.
They are from where the body was on the production line, so must use a specific lifting pad which cradles the whole structure for support, as it's not thick enough to withstand point loadings.

If using 4 axel stands, be aware as you jack the car with a trolley jack the arc of the jack means the jack will move inwards or the car will be pulled slightly backward. Not an issue for just front or rear but if one end is already on axel stands it can't move which can mean the car is being pulled of the stand.