Turbocharger Oil Feed

Hi there,
the turbo packed up on my 2000 Freelander (the old LR engine before TD4). I removed the turbo, repaired it with a service kit & refitted it. Now for priming it. There is no oil coming from the delivery pipe. I removed the feed pipe & checked that I can freely blow through it. I refitted it and removed the injectors to be able to crank faster, but still no oil, even after 15s cranking!! Should I now drop the sump & check the oil pump?
Anyone with experience out there on this Easter Weekend?

saw this via a search at the mg-rover forum ..

" Oil feed is working on positive pressure, 65psi when the engine is under load. I've never seen the pressure drop below 25psi on tickover even in summer. "

dunno if that's of any help :-/

couldn't find nowt else related via a google search

landyturbo said:

Hi there,
the turbo packed up on my 2000 Freelander (the old LR engine before TD4). I removed the turbo, repaired it with a service kit & refitted it. Now for priming it. There is no oil coming from the delivery pipe. I removed the feed pipe & checked that I can freely blow through it. I refitted it and removed the injectors to be able to crank faster, but still no oil, even after 15s cranking!! Should I now drop the sump & check the oil pump?
Anyone with experience out there on this Easter Weekend?

Click to expand...

Hope you don't mind me asking where did you get the repair kit also how much was it.

What made the old turbo die? If it was lack of oil pressure then maybe there is an oil pump problem but it's rare on an L series. Have you drained the oil and fitted a new filter?

Hi guys, thanks for the replies! I am in South Africa & bought the Melett turbo kit from "Turbo Exchange", It cost me 280€. Actually I wanted a service exchange unit but they did not have stock. That would have cost 390€. A new turbo is 550€. In retrospect I am glad that they did not have stock and I persuaded them to sell the kit to me. Fixing the turbo is the easiest part of this exercise, the new core just bolts on, and it is as good as new. The alignment takes some attention, but quite honestly it is easier to do this when you have marked and stripped it yourself, rather than some other mechanic.
I was assuming that the old turbo failed (after 230,000km) due to age and impatient shutdowns without sufficient cooling times. Now that I have not been able to get oil delivered from the feeder line, I am wondering if there is an oil delivery problem that caused the turbo to fail. Oil & filters were changed fairly recently, and I cannot get a filter on Easter Weekend. Cranking the engine without injectors allows much faster cranking and avoids the turbo speeding up without oil, but the problem is that the injector pipes still mess diesel even with the fuel pump ignition wire disconnected. I guess I must find the fuel pump, disconnect it and remove the fuel supply line as well. I also struggle to trace the oil supply line. It leads to an angled cylinder that looks like an oil cooler? Replacing the turbo was easy, but now I am knee deep in an all weekend job without the option to back out! The worst is that I am not sure if all this is necessary or if I could just connect everything & start up. It may be woth a gamble on the cost of another turbo kit!

What I would do before stripping the oil system further is refit the old turbo cassette. Disconnect the turbo's oil return to the sump and place a container below it. I'd then start and run the engine for 10 seconds. The idea being that if the turbo has oil when the engine is running there will be oil in the container ejected from the return pipe. If there is no oil flowing you know the new turbo will be ok as the old one is in there.
Once you know that oil is or is'nt flowing you can decided what to do next