Trouble starting, then cuts out when idling - SORTED!

Sorry about that.. It's obviously contagious!
Well next time I try and start it I'll try locking myself in/ out see if that makes a difference.
So, if you hear the same as me that would imply it's NOT fuel starvation.
So my current option is to look for bubbles around the injectors?

Yes its ok Ive already blamed you for infecting mine
I dont think you have fuel starvation, at least not at first, if a copper seal is leaking, it forces air into the head where the fuel should be, so it causes fuel "starvation".
Checking around the injectors for leaks, without the engine running you wont be able to replicate the possible fault, but you could try this;
Remove the acoustic cover and all of the bolts holding down the rocker cover, now replace just two of the bolts just to stop the cover leaking.
Start the engine (in whatever way works for you!), let it idle for a minute, stop the engine, quickly remove the cover (hence need to remove most of the bolts)
Now start checking for any leaks/bubbles around the injectors, hopefully you may be able to see any bubbles that may have started accumulating in the heads fuel gallery.
Not tried this before but may be worth a go.
Did you do the injector seal change yourself? Were the new washers ok? If a garage did it they may have been tempted to reuse the old washers.
Mark

Hi Mark, no I did the O-rings and washers myself.. i was VERY careful with this, and incidentally.. the old ones looked fine but I changed them anyway.
So, Im gonna give your suggestion a go.. probably tomorrow as the weather is good.
To make sure I have this correct.. take off cover, turn engine on but not running and listen / watch for bubbles? I'm presuming there shouldn't be any leaks / fuel around the injectors at all? or do I have to run the engine and whip the cover off quickly after I have stopped it, and then look?

1st suggestion was to take the cover off and with the ignition on, look for leaks.
2nd one was to try running it for a little bit, then stop it and whip off the cover and looks for air/leaks, the idea being that if its been running air may have started to get into the head and may be visible if either the head is cracked or a seal is leaking.
There should be no leaks at all! When I found the crack in my head it was only by spending a minute looking very carefully around the injector, the leak was very slow, almost like a tear drop.
But yours is sounding more like its an "air" leak rather than fuel, even with my head cracked it still started and ran ok.
Mark

Hi KMAS, if you do a search in the Disco forum for threads containing the word 'Daisy', you will see that I have been having most of the same problems as you. At the moment I have gone from a car reluctant to start to one that runs fine up to 90kph then conks and won't restart if you put your foot down at that speed. A couple of thoughts:

You have doubtless done the homework and read up on the solutions online just like I did and have done nearly exactly all the same things too.
I too have noticed that I need to give the new pump time to spin up and it makes more noise than the old one (but then I never paid attention to how much noise the old pump made because it was drowned out by an instantly starting TD5 engine) and the new pump is Britpart not Land Rover.
I also got no fault codes at the dealer, I need to find out if the same cylinder is shutting down each time.
With the sheer number of parts we have both changed, there is a greater chance of fitting a duff component or fitting a good one badly.
I also think that this is a situation where multiple faults can have similar symptoms and multiple causes.
The latest tip I have been given is to check the turbo flexible pipes for internal delamination - the black smoke we have both experience is indicative of not enough air getting to the cylinders.
The same can apply to the fuel lines, both the set of 4 to the filter and the lines from the filter to the engine but they are harder to check.
Daisy didn't have a non return valve when built but she does now.
On the bright side, the battery and starter motor must be made of Kryptonite because they just keep on going!
I will post what I find in the turbo pipes this weekend.

David

Thanks for the update David, I must admit the last couple of days the car has had to take a back seat, weather has been fine but I've got a major task in bringing back a boat from Italy to Cyprus and I've spent the last 4 days planning the route and fuel stops etc. I'm off to Italy to collect the boat on Wednesday so this may have to wait till I get back unless I get a clear 1/2 day to take the cover off and look at the injectors.
By the way David, I too suspected the two main fuel lines from back to front of the car and instead of paying nearly 400 euros for a replacement pair, I got a local guy here to make me up a 4 meter length of 8mm pressure pipe with push lock- release connectors. As I had also changed the cluster of 4 small fuel pipes at the back I simply cut-off two lots of ends and I now have a 4 meter pipe that can by-pass any length on the car. I used that to fault find if the existing long pipes were OK, also handy for bypassing the fuel cooler too.
Anyway, I'll keep monitoring the thread whilst I'm away for any updates... I'll probably be about 10-15 days weather/ sea permitting.
Let me think..... Crawl under the car or motor around the Greek islands.. Hmm tough one!

Ok.. It's been a while since I've posted on this, but I thought I would post the result or the fix. I eventually bit th bullet and took it to the Land Rover agent/ dealer here in Cyprus. I explained exactly what I had done already.. The mechanics seemed very switched on indeed.... One suggested (since I had replaced everything) in the fuel setup that it must be either one of the injectors failing under load or a problem with the head. The injectors came out and were tested and passed OK.. So the head then came off.. Good grief, crack lines on four of the five pots!!
They found a second hand head for me, had it re-skimmed, new valves, bolts etc etc.and it now works like a dream!
So there we are, someone along the line did suggest a possible head crack but it's not what I wanted to think about.. Anyway, all up and running now.. Thanks everyone for there help on this

And for those of you that like piccy's...
Here's one of the whole head.. The white circles are where the mechanics have circled 'issues'. The larger circle around one of the pots indicates that there is severe scoring around the whole thing, so something at sometime must have fallen down into the cylinder.. Pre my time, I hasten to add
Look closely at the smaller circles and you can clearly see the cracks.

I'm really pleased that is sorted for you.

I have no words to describe the cylinder head...... shakes head whilst walking away

Glad its sorted but wow that head was toast!
May have been me who suggested cracks but mine cracked at No1 injector pocket, then again at No 4!.
Is yours at older head 10P or the later 15P, with the external fuel pipe running next to the head?
I know 10Ps are known for cracking, 15P,s also crack but mainly around the injector pockets.
Maybe worth saving up (as I am!), for an AMC head, they seem to address the issues, the pockets look thicker on the AMC.
Mark