Disco 4 (LR4) Trouble in trattor land

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Grrrrrr

Grrrrrr

Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd
Full Member
Posts
19,297
Location
Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Hi chaps,

Posting for a mate who has just broken down awaiting recovery. Would be good to hear opinions. It is the 8-speed diesel.

Symptoms.

Driving on dual carriageway and went to overtake. All of a sudden the revs climbed but no power, like the gearbox was lunch. About 20 seconds later the oil light came on. No where to stop so came off at first exit. Stalled at roundabout, restarted but engine is seriously clattering and oil smells burnt.

My first thought was maybe a cambelt had jumped but apparently the belts were done 6 months ago.

Any ideas?

Cheers!
 
Grrrrrr said:
Hi chaps,

Posting for a mate who has just broken down awaiting recovery. Would be good to hear opinions. It is the 8-speed diesel.

Symptoms.

Driving on dual carriageway and went to overtake. All of a sudden the revs climbed but no power, like the gearbox was lunch. About 20 seconds later the oil light came on. No where to stop so came off at first exit. Stalled at roundabout, restarted but engine is seriously clattering and oil smells burnt.

My first thought was maybe a cambelt had jumped but apparently the belts were done 6 months ago.

Any ideas?

Cheers!
Click to expand...

Hiya

Really Hope I’m wrong but sounds like the oil pump cover wasn’t upgraded and the tensioner corner has broke off or even worse shells have spun and snapped the crank

Unfortunately if it is either of these the engine is toast , has he by any chance got a warranty

Plse let us know of what the outcome is , thks
 
gstuart said:
Hiya

Really Hope I’m wrong but sounds like the oil pump cover wasn’t upgraded and the tensioner corner has broke off or even worse shells have spun and snapped the crank

Unfortunately if it is either of these the engine is toast , has he by any chance got a warranty

Plse let us know of what the outcome is , thks
Click to expand...

I did think of the oil pump but apparently all that work was done before he bought it, or so the receipts say. However, that doesn't mean they actually touched the cover!
 
Should have mentioned oil level is fine but start the car and smoke comes out the filler cap and it smells seriously hot. Again, did think of turbo but apparently it is more a clattery, like valves mashing or shells gone.
 
Grrrrrr said:
I did think of the oil pump but apparently all that work was done before he bought it, or so the receipts say. However, that doesn't mean they actually touched the cover!
Click to expand...

Cheers , trouble is when they do the belts they remove the tensioner , when it’s refitted the corner is weakened, then down the road if it’s not the upgraded one that has the stronger corner it snaps

Pics of the original and modified oil pump cover

Also heard of a few where the crank has snapped and engine still fired but sounded like a bag of nails

Doesn’t sound like a turbo as that would have indeed ended as a runaway and dumped the oil out the exhaust

B005A8D6-2B80-4F30-96BC-B38BFACF7C6B.jpeg
AC4295DC-C646-4057-A888-927ED20AEEA4.jpeg
 
The clatter is a worry but smoke coming out of the filler cap says to me the engine is toast, something serious has let go.
Ive seen other makes of engines running with a snapped crank and have heard of some 3.0 also doing the same.
 
lynall said:
The clatter is a worry but smoke coming out of the filler cap says to me the engine is toast, something serious has let go.
Ive seen other makes of engines running with a snapped crank and have heard of some 3.0 also doing the same.
Click to expand...

Plus 1 , seen a few on the D3 forum where indeed the engines have ran with the snapped crank, when I hydrolocked my landy that still ran, didn’t sound to good mind

Think the D4 recon engines are around £7k

Many find it Cheaper to just buy a S type jag
 
AdamD1 said:
Do the engines fail in the Jags?
Click to expand...

Im led to believe they do the same party trick just not on the same scale plus its just not so well advertised!
I think the main reason people say to use the jag lump is the cars when old are pretty much worthless whereas the landrovers still have some decent value in them.
 
gstuart said:
Cheers , trouble is when they do the belts they remove the tensioner , when it’s refitted the corner is weakened, then down the road if it’s not the upgraded one that has the stronger corner it snaps

Pics of the original and modified oil pump cover

Also heard of a few where the crank has snapped and engine still fired but sounded like a bag of nails

Doesn’t sound like a turbo as that would have indeed ended as a runaway and dumped the oil out the exhaust

View attachment 186221 View attachment 186222
Click to expand...
I think it’s a D4 not D3 so oil pump not an issue just crank and cams to worry about
 
Last edited:
I am wondering if he might be lucky and just the oil pump has gone. It starts and runs with a clatter. Clatter seems to be coming from low down but there are covers over everything and access is almost non-existent.

Yes, this is LR4.
 
Meant to take a video this evening but forgot. Busy tomorrow so it will have to wait. Car is over 10 miles from me so not exactly handy. Going to take some bits off and then see what I can hear with a stethoscope.

Odd thing is that it runs for 5 minutes, albeit sounding bad, and then the oil light comes on. Of course, it is too flash to have anything as mundane as a dipstick.

No oil splashing when I remove the oil filler cap though. Thought I'd see some?
 
Grrrrrr said:
Meant to take a video this evening but forgot. Busy tomorrow so it will have to wait. Car is over 10 miles from me so not exactly handy. Going to take some bits off and then see what I can hear with a stethoscope.

Odd thing is that it runs for 5 minutes, albeit sounding bad, and then the oil light comes on. Of course, it is too flash to have anything as mundane as a dipstick.

No oil splashing when I remove the oil filler cap though. Thought I'd see some?
Click to expand...


Domt mess about, drain the oil out and see, A how much comes out and, B what else apart from the oil comes out got to be worth pulling the oil filter as well to check for debris?
Did you ask him when he last checked the oil level?

Im only guessing from a distance but its sounds fubared to me which is sad for such a recent car.
I gather its at least 2012 so just wondering how new it is?
 
lynall said:
Domt mess about, drain the oil out and see, A how much comes out and, B what else apart from the oil comes out got to be worth pulling the oil filter as well to check for debris?
Did you ask him when he last checked the oil level?

Im only guessing from a distance but its sounds fubared to me which is sad for such a recent car.
I gather its at least 2012 so just wondering how new it is?
Click to expand...

Oil change done about 200 miles ago. You cannot check the level because no dip-stick! Does a check each startup.

Yes, we'll drain the oil and have a look. Bearing in mind it was nearly brand new it doesn't smell good now.

Yes, 2012 plate although maybe built 2011. The 8 speed 3.0 litre one. Lovely when it was running.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Oil change done about 200 miles ago. You cannot check the level because no dip-stick! Does a check each startup.

Yes, we'll drain the oil and have a look. Bearing in mind it was nearly brand new it doesn't smell good now.

Yes, 2012 plate although maybe built 2011. The 8 speed 3.0 litre one. Lovely when it was running.
Click to expand...

I guessed age from the 8 speed comment, they dont hold sod all oil Iirc 6 litres from empty, which simply isnt enough for a large diesel engine.
If its like the 2.7 the actual metal sump is tiny and I think can be removed in situ and may be worth doing then you can have a pry at the cranks/rods etc.

There is a company (OvalAutos) who are on the D3/4 forum who reckon they can recon the 2.7 and the 3.0 engines, yet a few others on there who repair the cars for a living reckon once the crank has gone its shags the block.

Edit ignore the sump comment Ive just looked on ebay and it seems the 3.0 has a large cast assembly rather than the pressed tin on the 2.7.
 
I've got a little USB endoscope that plugs in my laptop (which unfortunately is bust) but I might be able to poke it up the sump plug and have a look around ... I hope!
 
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