P38A Transmission oil change (manual)

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Gearbox drain is 32mm, same as the hub-nuts - unless someone has replaced your hub-nuts using Britpart.

Might be worth another change at the next service to get the oil out that was in the cooler pipes.
 
RangeRoller dt said:
I've been putting on new rad and pump on over the holidays and have somehow ended up changing the differential oil. I've seen many gadgets you can buy getting the oil into the diff from underneath and just thought I'd share my method with you.
View attachment 167059
I cut a metre length off the garden hose and fed it down through engine bay. Stick a funnel in the end (or even cut an old pop bottle) and pour away to your hearts content ....
View attachment 167063 View attachment 167060
For the rear diff I go up over the wheel and jam it in the arch, although you could zip tie it to the door handle
View attachment 167062
When the diff is full just pull the hose out and stick it in the container your filling from.
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A pump up 5 litre garden sprayer with the spray nozzle removed is the cheapest easiest way, paid €9 for the one I use.
 
RangeRoller dt said:
So the diff oil smoothed it out ever so slightly.
There is still a grumbly/grindy sensation so next on list was grease UJ's. Shafts seemed in fairly good order except they are not cracking fluently. Managed to squeeze a little grease in and ran it for few miles with lots of bumps. Second go they popped and the grease ran straight through them. No discernible play but will Check again once it's had a good run.

Next up was Transfer box oil change same time. Mine has slight leak at front shaft so level is a little low.
2 - 1/2inch drive plugs (same as diffs) but access is more restricted around filler hole. I used a fairy bottle with small funnel and 5inches of hose.
This is what I had out - carbonised orange thick goop :eek:
View attachment 172896

Replaced with nice new clear cherry-red ATF dextron 3. Luckily I had a 4 1/2 litre bottle on sale as I tipped a lot everywhere. Cleans exhausts magnificently :D Don't get it in your eyes - bl**dy stings ;)

Vehicle now runs noticeably smoother. Pulling off and changing to reverse is smoother as well as needing less throttle to pull off from standstill. Backend is a LOT surer on road particularly at higher speeds. Increased handling is more than I would have thought an oil change was capable of

The grumble is less but still there :oops:
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Carbocnised oil? You got an internal combustion transfer box? Check your wheel bearings
 
Last edited:
jamesmartin said:
oil changes need to be far more frequent
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Wouldn't suprise me if the oil was the original :eek: I'm satisfied the Tbox and diff oils are okay now, but Gbox will need dropping again after a good run and it's circulated through the rad. We will see what's stuck to the plug next time and what difference it makes 1st/2nd change. I could of done it all at once but it's more interesting this way.
Tbox was low, put much more in than I got out. Only small weep so must have been neglected for long time before I had vehicle.
 
Come to think of it, I've never seen oil that bad, let alone ATF turn to jelly :/

A few drain and refills I'd do.
 
It was the manual box (MTF) that was really bad. But your point is the same, I've not seen stuff that bad before maybe in past rad rotted through, who knows? Gearbox and engine oil need another flush soonish. Seems PO's were type to change filter without dropping the oil
 
RangeRoller dt said:
It was the manual box (MTF) that was really bad. But your point is the same, I've not seen stuff that bad before maybe in past rad rotted through, who knows? Gearbox and engine oil need another flush soonish. Seems PO's were type to change filter without dropping the oil
Click to expand...

Same when I got mine. Oil was like black water. Did several changes at 1000 miles to start with to try and flush it a bit.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Same when I got mine. Oil was like black water. Did several changes at 1000 miles to start with to try and flush it a bit.
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I changed engine oil/filter soon as I had it- was like crude oil. Went black straight away but will absorb ****e. Youl never get it all out.

After my Xmas overheat the head is bit rattly. I will warm engine up with a pint of white diesel added to the oil next time I drop it. Additives in it clean well and it lubricates. Is better than any bought flush additive that I've used and is Wammers approved :)
 
Gearbox oil change has smoothed things out quite a bit. Gearstick moves more freely and selects gear much better (3rd & 4th got notchy). Hardly need any throttle to pull off and overall is much quieter ; grind in question gone - hurrah! :cool:
Rattly head and -I think- rear wheel bearing are now much more apparent as noise is not drowned out by others.
Biggest difference is the ability to chug along quietly and happily in a high gear with no juddering. (24mph in 4th, 32mph in 5th). This is few mph lower than what it was happy pulling at before :)
'Click' when pulling off suggests UJ's Are now moving freely, one perhaps too much and may need attention
 
Got the wheels up and wiggled them, no sign of lateral play so hope bearings are okay. Grinding at back is an ancient Lucas caliper all corroded. I've cleaned it up a little will see how it goes.

I can now use my Low range once again :) -
Gearbox still a little notchy at 3rd gear. It sorta 'catches' slightly before going in. When asked to select neutral if I hold the gear stick where it catches, it registers and changes. @Wazzajnr
There are no clunks or bangs, it does it silently. :)
 
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