Freelander 1 Track rod inboard bushes

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So I thought I'd quickly read up on changing the track rods in the haynes manual, in advance of me cracking on. I was expecting a pretty straight forward job. However, the manual says that on diesel models it's necessary to remove the rack completely to do the job! Is this correct? Does anyone know if it's possible to change them without removing the rack? I was hoping to not even have to remove the wheels ;)
 
If you mean the whole rod from the rack centre then I am sure that can be done from underneath. As long as you can get to the torx bolts I really can't see why not. My memory suggests there is space.

The track rod ends are obviously simple through the wheel arch jobs.
 
andyfreelandy said:
If you mean the whole rod from the rack centre then I am sure that can be done from underneath. As long as you can get to the torx bolts I really can't see why not. My memory suggests there is space.
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Yeah, planning on doing the whole rods. It looks to me like there is enough room and the torx bolts look reasonably accessible from above, but I was surprised to see the statement in Haynes. I've not looked at Rave to see what that says as I can't get it on my current pc.
 
I removed the track rods a couple of years ago and iirc the torx bolts fought me the entire way. I didn't have the correct torx socket but just used a suitable ring spanner.
Do-able but not recommended.
 
kernowsvenski said:
Yeah, planning on doing the whole rods
Click to expand...

Room is tight, so it help to swing the steering full one way and access the bolts through the track rod cutout in the inner wing.
Make sure you set the new track rod the exact same length as the one you’ve removed, and ideally both LH and RH should measure within a couple of mm of each other too. It's not uncommon for just one side to be adjusted when tracking is being reset, but in reality any tracking adjustments should be made an equal amount on each side. So when it's all apart it'll give you the opportunity to measure and adjust any inaccuracies there. This is done by measuring both old track rods accurately, adding the total lengths together, then dividing by 2 and setting each new track rod to that figure. This way the rack will be central, and ensure the correct steering geometry. You may find the steering wheel is out of line, but this can be corrected once the steering rack is central, simply by popping the wheel splines, and refitting the wheel in the straight ahead position.
 
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Nodge68 said:
Room is tight, so it help to swing the steering full one way and access the bolts through the track rod cutout in the inner wing.
Make sure you set the new track rod the exact same length as the one you’ve removed, and ideally both LH and RH should measure within a couple of mm of each other too. It's not uncommon for just one side to be adjusted when tracking is being reset, but in reality any tracking adjustments should be made an equal amount on each side. So when it's all apart it'll give you the opportunity to measure and adjust any inaccuracies there. This is done by measuring both old track rods accurately, adding the total lengths together, then dividing by 2 and setting each new track rod to that figure. This way the rack will be central, and ensure the correct steering geometry. You may find the steering wheel is out of line, but this can be corrected once the steering rack is central, simply by popping the wheel splines, and refitting the wheel in the straight ahead position.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tips Nodge. I'll let you know how I get on. Weather permitting I'll be doing it this weekend at some point. I think I'll be making sure that the rods go on at exactly the same lengths as the existing, then I'll be straight out to get the aligment done.I don't trust myslef to be messing about with geometry, and don't particulary really want to mess about with the steering wheel either If I can help it. Even though the rods and ends are worn, I'm pretty sure the tracking is out a smidge aswell so I'll get it adjusted properly after I've done what I can.
 
So I completed this job today. Having the right star/torx spanner made all the difference. I'd recommend using a ratchet one if possible once the inboard fixings are cracked. I didn't and it took ages to unwind them. E20 by the way.

Following Nodge's tip of moving the steering made it possible, although I removed the bolts from above rather than reaching through the wheel arch aperatures, putting the steering in different positions to get the best access and avoid heater hoses. Getting the drivers side rod bolt back into the rack was a bit fiddly. Leaving the passenger side well slackened helped. All in all a job that I feel could easily be attempted at home.
 
jamesmartin said:
if your pulling up on the joint like with a splitter fork theres a lot of pressure on the joint socket,as your not puling on the taper direct but the joints socket which is not hardened steel but plastic,if you hit in direction down the arm it cant bend,but wont anyhow the two hammers helps there to give a more solid hit thus stretching the joint not the arm springing
Click to expand...

OK, that's not what I was picturing from the description. I thought he was pushing directly upwards on the end of the balljoint stud (presumably leaving the nut loose on the end). Doing that, would exert no load on the housing (or the plastic liner) but maybe I misunderstood!
 
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