Track Rod Ends

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sijwhite

sijwhite

Active Member
Posts
625
Location
Shandon, Argyll & Bute
Thought I'd change my discs, pads, drop links and track rod ends today.

All was going well until I tried to get the nearside taper to come out. After several hours I thought I'd give in and ask the good and the wise here if there are any tips on getting the damn thing apart.

I've tried a big hammer, heat, plus gas, a puller and a splitter. I'm stumped.

Any suggestions?
 
you cant be hitting the steering arm near the joint hard enough then ,ive never seen one that wouldnt pop out if hit hard enough
 
How big is the hammer keep twacking as long as your changing the ball joint

You can buy a thread type ball joint splitter .
 
sijwhite said:
I'm using a 4lb club hammer. Just how hard can I hit the steering arm before it breaks?
Click to expand...

It can only be held by rust at most if your that worried go for the thread and bolt type remover , less chance of damage to dust seals, for future removal of good Ball joints .
try soaking it in penitrating fluid for the night .... No not wd40 if not firm twacking keep it up not thor type pounding :D or you might just brake the casting .

And hit the thread bit not the shank
 
Last edited:
The arm is made from drop forged steel, it will not break.

I take it you have slackened/removed the ball joint nut !!

Like JM, I have used that method for years with great success. Just give it one good sharp smack and it should just drop off the taper, don't give it a load of continuous "Light" taps. If , which is unlikely that fails, use an extractor with a pressure bolt and give the arm a good whack whilst it's under pressure.
 
Irishrover said:
The arm is made from drop forged steel, it will not break.

I take it you have slackened/removed the ball joint nut !!

Like JM, I have used that method for years with great success. Just give it one good sharp smack and it should just drop off the taper, don't give it a load of continuous "Light" taps. If , which is unlikely that fails, use an extractor with a pressure bolt and give the arm a good whack whilst it's under pressure.
Click to expand...

Yes, I have removed the nut :) and I've given it plenty of good hard whacks but now I know the arm is drop forged steel I won't be so circumspect about hitting it with a bigger hammer. :D
 
Careful you dont fck yerself with the heat. It may make the taper more tight. Best of luck, hate it when you come to do a job and something youd never have expected stops the whole job dead.
 
musky81 said:
Careful you dont fck yerself with the heat. It may make the taper more tight. Best of luck, hate it when you come to do a job and something youd never have expected stops the whole job dead.
Click to expand...

Depends where your directing it,oxygen and acetylene the way to go
Butane is a waste if time and money
I doubt he was using oxygen :p
 
Last edited:
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