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No that's the blue one. Dash gauge and aircon. But can still be got.
P38A torque converter lockup
- Thread starter kermit_rr
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No that's the blue one. Dash gauge and aircon. But can still be got.
Datatek
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Whatever you do, you will not get all the oil out of the torque converter. I would do a second change and include the Lucas, it stays in.
Datatek
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If it aint broke, don't fix it. EDC engine temperature readings are available on Nanocom so easy enough to check if the sensor is working.
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Yep, definitely at 36mph i can feel it. A double change to 4th and lockup immediately after that.
Indicated speed seems to be accurate
Indicated speed seems to be accurate
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
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The ATF doesn't "Stay" in the converter, it circulates around the box, that is why people recommend you fill it, run for a while, then change etc etc..
A good way to do it IMO
A good way to do it IMO
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That's why i disconnected the oil cooler and collected what came out, while continually adding oil
Datatek
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It sure as hell does not come out when you drain the sump.
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Seeing as how the dry fill is 9.7 litres and you will only get just over 4 litres out of the sump, i think that is a correct statement.
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Definitely something not right, getting lockup far too soon and just now with sport!? mode selected seemed to be hunting, hard to tell but seemed to select 2, 3, 4 and lock, back to 3, by which time I've run out of road and need to slow down
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Stick to plan A and put Lucas in?
Datatek
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The box often shunts between 3 & 4 on an incline, I hold in 3rd with the gear lever when it does that. It should not do it on the flat.
Do you get any over revving as it shifts?
Datatek
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Certainly worth at least one more change and a dose of Lucas. It takes a while for the Lucas to have any effect.
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I don't normally bother with 'S'illy mode, it didn't over rev as per a false neutral or anything like that, just hunted round a bit.
Is there any kind of adjustment or is it all electronic? Could it be confused with a different driving style to normal?
Datatek
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It's all electronic, no adjustments that I am aware of. The shift patterns are not very good IMO. For example, climbing a hill, if you give it a bit of welly, it will drop to 2nd and rev it's nuts off, then immediately upshift to 3rd. I have 2 cars that do the same, so I have to assume it's normal. There are other unsatisfactory happenings that appear to be normal and driving style certainly affects things. The 4.6 has a sort of learn mode which alters settings to driving style, I have no idea if it's effective as I have never been near a 4.6.
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Thank you
i shall assume it's a feature of the green oval and drive accordingly. Like you say, help out along by holding 3rd manually. There's a reason you don't need to press the button to do that!
Henry_b
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I didn't say that it did.
4.1 came out of my sump
The new stuff was instantly contaminated, 4 changes later and it's as clean as it'll ever be
Much safer in my opinion than removing cooler lines and potentially running the box dry.
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How do you know when convertor is locked?
dubbleRR
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If you select 3rd at speeds about 40ish i think the tc goes into lockup ,,,,RR
,,,,RR
Henry_b
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The difference between the diesels shifts compared to the petrol is the shift times and behaviours.
the v8's change much sooner as they have something the Diesel doesn't have, TORQUE!!
As such the shift point are in the right place
Under light acceleration the V8 should change at around 1700rpm -2000rpm lockup 4th should happen around 45mph..
The shifts should be almost unnoticeable, atleast with mine they are.
the v8's change much sooner as they have something the Diesel doesn't have, TORQUE!!
As such the shift point are in the right place
Under light acceleration the V8 should change at around 1700rpm -2000rpm lockup 4th should happen around 45mph..
The shifts should be almost unnoticeable, atleast with mine they are.
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The revs don't go up and down when you play with the throttle and are tied to road speed
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