Torch the f****r

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I must be doing something wrong. I've had four 200tdi discos over the years and okay there's been some rust but none of em have ever broke down on me.
 
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philbr said:
ok a quick update, things are getting sorted welding almost finished (would of completed but the wifes alfa refused to pass the mot) and things are going well, although still have beer in hand:5bcheers2: a quick question need to replace the front discs, driven the beast for about an hour and still 1/3 of the nearside disc has rust still on, new to land rover and read haynes, now on kerbside motors can you remove the whole hub and replace the disc?? rather than stripping the lot (new pads aswell off course)
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Sure can, but you'll need some very clean lint free cloth to stuff in both front and back of hub to keep the grunge out, or you'll be replacing seals and bearings, which probably would be a good idea to replace anyway by the sounds of other things breaking. Possibly need about 6 more beers to do it though.:D:D:D
 
I'e had my disco for 6 months now and it has been great, i've done about 5k in it with no probs. After reading this though i think i might go and give the underside a coat of looking at!
 
to be honest i thought i knew what i was getting into with the rusty floor, but was much worse after a good poke around
Photo0242.jpg
 
I've had my '93 200TDI for about 5 years in which time I've had the alternator fail, 3rd gear synchro fail both within the 1st week, dealer replaced free of charge. Then head gasket blow, garage job including skimmimg. 1st MOT failed due to badly worn front tyres, tracking out had to have all the rods heated up to adjust the tracking. Next MOT full set of discs and pads, both headlights. Mother rust has taken it's toll and that has to be done before January or will fail the MOT work to do, Load space floor really knackered who knows what the rear panel is like under the bumper, offside inner wing perforated, MOT guy said because the brake pipes are fitted to them it's a fail. Offside body mounting attached to the sill a touch swollen apparently that's a fail to. Glad I took the side steps off they were so rotten standing on them was risky, probably would have passed the MOT though.

The rust alone is enough to chuck it but she drives so well, never had a breakdown. Been in the sea and river pulling boat trailers out, dragged sunken caravans out of the mud even pulled a japanese copy along in the snow and ice. These are the only reasons I'm going to fix her up.
 
string said:
The rust alone is enough to chuck it but she drives so well, never had a breakdown. Been in the sea and river pulling boat trailers out, dragged sunken caravans out of the mud even pulled a japanese copy along in the snow and ice. These are the only reasons I'm going to fix her up.
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That might explain the rust then Salt water and steel don't really like each other very much.
 
redhand said:
That might explain the rust then Salt water and steel don't really like each other very much.
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I agree salt's not good, when I bought her the first job was to clean the underside which was caked in 10 years of mud. My guess is that's what caused the rust damage along with winter road salt especially as the rear spashguards fell off with the mud and the drivers side inner wing parted allowing water to be thrown up all over the battery every time it rains. The load space floor was different as there was no damage to the underside, it rotted away from the inside where rain water crept in through the roof lights. Anyone know how to fix these the water even finds it way into the roof liner and drips on your head?

Since getting the mud off I've managed to keep on top of the rot by jet washing every time she goes into the sea/river and a couple of time during the winter to get the road salt off. Once the rot has started it's just a mater of time before the decsion to spend or torch reaches them all.
 
At least you can mend it. They are the most unreliable things ever made but I do love mine. Series 2 have got the added fun of loads of well dodgy electronics which play up in the wet and air suspension which is fine but costs a mint to fix.
 
vivnap said:
i replaced the boot floor in a discovery im repairing and the lip the boot floor fits into was rotten so i went to a local metal fabricator with a press and had some 'lips' fabricated. i cut out all the rot right back to good metal then welded the parts in then dropped the boot floor in. i was extreamly please with the results :)
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nice and neat work viv,well done bud.;)
 
I fancy trying the "creeping crack cure" on my new one. Problem is people say it has to be dry.
Can someone remind me to do it in the summer!

P.S. Will it creep down under the bonnet, and fix a cracked head???
 
reeves_luke said:
The first day i had mine the coil went then somthing todo with the alarm went. plus lots of oil leaks.

But when it's fixed and you go out and it works the feeling you have is gr8 you forget about all the hard work time and money been spent!
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thought you got it proper stuck (4 vechiles to get it out) on the first day?:D:D:D
 
A good weekends work me thinks, airlock sorted (was nothing of the sort was a blocked heater matrix) and cut a temp blanking plate for the egr out off 3mm plate f**k me what a difference, starting to like this now
 
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