Too high mileage to tune and if not what's the best option.

Its not really the millage, its the life its had and the age of the turbo, Turbo is nearly always the first point of failure after a remap,

Jonnyb1990 said:

Its not really the millage, its the life its had and the age of the turbo, Turbo is nearly always the first point of failure after a remap,

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Not a bad shout there. That said low mileage/rebuilt std turbos are pretty cheap.

I opted to leave my cooler in place as it acts like a small radiator specially here in Australia with the hot summers
i did remove the actuators and also the eltronic solenoids

as for protecting the turbo to high of an EGT can cause the exhaust turbine to burn away ..but if the remap is safe and turbo gets slightly hotter than normall i would suggest fitting in a turbo timer or let the engine idle down before switching off

i stole this idea from a dump truck i was working on by adding in a accumulator tank to store engine oil and feed it direct to the turbo .i have weighed the bottle and it takes aproxx 50 seconds to 1 minute to drain some times more depending on oil temp accumalotor tank is explained in 4.40 in the vid
also a good indication that this system works is after switching off my engine and put back on ignition it takes aproxx 1 minute some times more for my oil light to come on( engine off ignition on only)
many will argue that accumalotor tanks work with gravity feed (not correct) the accumalor tank fills half way with engine oil and the top half is trapped air ..this trapped air becomes under pressure

i have also installed one of these tanks in a different vehicle and used an old gas bottle from a blowtorch
ps I use a K&N washable air filter ..never had any issues with MAF sensors I also use to over oil until I found my happy medium when spraying the filter
I aslo noticed slight fuel consumption when I added my snorkel as id did not like the ram air affect so I had to turn my snorkel head around so its facing the rear

You wont need a turbo timer on a bloody land rover! That kind of stuff is meant for hi spec 500bhp+ drift/drag/sports cars. As good practice I always tend to let the engine idle for a little when I park while I sort out everthing but thats as far as I will go.

You are talking about a low/mild tuned almost standard TD5, not a 600bhp twin turbo Skyline here. Not to mention TD5 turbos are cheap and easy to replace in under an hour (not that you want to do it, but its not a terrible job)

TD5s run cool as standard and do fine in Africa without any mass over heating issues. Loosing all of less than 1L of coolant isnt going to make a huge difference but does get rid of the crap in the engine bay and means less places to leak coolant from (EGR coolers do have a habit of leaking). Dont forget the EGR coolers where not fitted to all TD5s only fitted in places that required them to pass emissions.

As for EGTs it is something to be aware of but again not unless youre running a nutty tune/super high boost. Dynachip wont do that, not every map is that same. My 90 has run perfectly fine for 2+ years, including some hard/fast off road, with no manifold warping or scary EGTs.

Look at TD5inside, they run 200bhp+ TD5s on standard manifolds, dewebbed when needed, with hybrid or larger VNT turbos, they race em and had no issues.

Have Dynachip map it, up the boost to 18psi, EGR blank, straight thru and a decat pipe youll be happy as larry! Maybe a full size intercooler if you fancy it.

what do you think a turbo timer does ..it does the same thing you do manually by letting it idle

as for the turbo being cheep and takes 1 hour to do I would rather spend my money else on things I need as well spend quality time doing other things rather than replacing a turbo every 6/9 months

regardless of HP there are a few bobcats and some small kabota falk lifts they are rated at 59 HP and 69 HP there are factory warning stickers to warn to idle before prior to shut down

a turbo is not designed to last for ever but looking after any turbo prolongs it life in general

heat soak on the turbo bearing whilst not moving is a bearing killer
another thing turbo do not like is bad air cleaners and engine oil quality

as for removing the EGR cooler its a personal choice but if its blanked at both ends so what if springs a leak where can it go ? all it will do is fill the chamber (only if its blanked at both ends )
as for the TD5 runs cool I can show otherwise I have an extra coolant temp gauge installed as I noticed the gauge on the dash does not move very much when up to operating temps

so driving in heavy boggy sand in 45 degree c of heat for 30 minutes actually shows up on the after market gauge while the dash gauge stays in the middle

now that I use my air con allot I like to try and stop that viscous fan from locking up specially when I need that extra power or response time as most turbo vehicles suffer from hot days

I would also suggest to those who actually run an active EGR

if the exhaust gasses where dry there would be no manifold blockage ..but once the EGR gasses mix with the rocker cover breathing system it then turns to sludge and over time this sludge bakes and turns hard creating blockages

so those that run an active EGR I would suggest to install a catch can in the breathing system ..although even the most expensive catch can with baffles wont catch 100% but it gives the engine intake system some sort of fighting chance and reduces oil entering the intake

also installing a catch can you can monitor how much oil it captures over a period of time ..it gets you to know the engine allot more for future reference

ozzyboydeano said:

I would also suggest to those who actually run an active EGR

if the exhaust gasses where dry there would be no manifold blockage ..but once the EGR gasses mix with the rocker cover breathing system it then turns to sludge and over time this sludge bakes and turns hard creating blockages

so those that run an active EGR I would suggest to install a catch can in the breathing system ..although even the most expensive catch can with baffles wont catch 100% but it gives the engine intake system some sort of fighting chance and reduces oil entering the intake

also installing a catch can you can monitor how much oil it captures over a period of time ..it gets you to know the engine allot more

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Fair point but hes in the UK it rarely goes above 30c.

It can leak from the pipe work at the tear of the engine or the various rubber hoses can perish and leak.

True, while a turbo timer does do that it is an unnecessary expense of time and cash.

Youre forgetting the OP wants a bit more poke and power not a super tuned TD5.

banks

regardless of climate ..the engine needs to breath and what condition of health is the engine ?


regardless you blank off the EGR cooling system the rubber blanking plug will eventually perish (unless you solder up the hole )
thats the case what about the heater hoses plug them up to LOL (just incase they leak)

as for turbo timer I don't need one as I have my tank installed ..but while your letting your engine idle down I'm busy doing more important things (just saying )..but like you say why need for a turbo timer
remember you said in your last post turbos are cheap ..

well turbo timers are a very very very cheap
how ever I never said fitting a timer was a walk in the park either..
so then where back to a personal preference thing


Ps I never forgot about the OP I have already mentioned adding in LPG system
the OP also mentioned about EGR /decat /exhaust /remap

so please don't blame me for any derailment

Not blaming you for anything! Just saying you appear to being going to bit OTT for what is a pretty standard practice with TD5s. They are strong engines capable of taking all manor of abuse. Turbo timers, catch cans and the rest just won't be needed for this mild level of tune. While yes you can fit them and it will help just if you have the cash/effort to do it.

End of the day it doesn't make much difference removing the cooler or not, I just like crap out of the bay to make doing other jobs easier.

I know the gauge doesnt move as it is ECU driven, so it will stay in the middle within a set variance then jump to red when it is out of that variance. I.e could be running at 98.9 and still be central then hit 99 and bang in the red.

givin the fact the title of the OP means his engine isn't exactly brand new ..but adding in a catch can is standard practice to any engine ..all engines breath.... specially turbo charged engines they breath more than a NA engine
even though there is no tune or mods its something that nobody sees ...because if you follow the breathing pipe work ever notice it goes back into the air intake ...
ever noticed your inlet manifold has baked on sludge ,,do you still think this EGR only or is the EGR gasses mixed with breathing gasses ? regardless of a tune or not


as for the EGR cooler ..I have just recently replaced my fan hub bearing and idler bearings never once did the EGR cooler get in my way

like I say its a personal preference to remove it or leave it

The EGR valve was not fitted to TD5 Defenders sold in some countries, where it was not needed to pass emissions.

So Land Rover clearly felt that the engine could happily live without it.

Well to update this thread I can report that Land Rover is now remapped. Deleted the EGR, decatted the exhaust and Mike from Dynachip worked his magic this morning.

He did what he called a strong map which is meant to be about 170bhp and if I fit a bigger intercooler it will give me even more. Not sure what the torque is now but it is certainly quite a lot. To say the Landrover goes well is an understatement. Needless to say it has gone faster today on a long run to pick up a trailer than it ever has. It pulls like a train and exactly as I wanted you just leave it in fifth and it will pull all the way from sub 30mph right up to wherever you start to feel a bit nervous! With a trailer on it is seriously impressive and will accelerate faster than it used to without a trailer on the back. Off road it will now climb up steep banks and hold on. On top of this there is no smoke and the engine feels to be running smoother and happier than it ever has. Wish it came out the factory like this!

Only downside is that I am going to have to do a bit of work on the steering as there is a bit of free play that the higher speeds have shown up. Think a new steering arm is required and potentially the universal joints in the steering linkage that seem to have a bit of loose play in them.

Glad you got it sorted. Mike at Dynachip did mine too, my TD5 would not take the full power remap (too much smoke) and he had to turn it down a couple of times. He estimated it's making about 150bhp but still really good, much better through the gears with more torque and can be left in fifth gear on most roads up or down hills.
l tried it without the CAT but the droning at motorway speeds was not pleasant, so it was refitted.
lt did perform better without the CAT fitted, the turbo responded quicker with less delay before the power came in. So it was a shame to put it back on.
l have fitted the EGR delete kit though l did not notice any difference in performance.
Removing the EGR is supposed to reduce the EGT so that's worthwhile.