To re chassis or not... this is the question?

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Retroanaconda said:
Yes, two C-channel sections overlapped and welded.

In my opinion it’s worth the premium. It’s as close as you’ll get to a new Genuine chassis without buying one, but with the benefit of galvanising.

The Marsland is more original in construction, has the later strengthening additions around outriggers, can allow you to use the better Td5 type fuel tanks, and is lighter in construction. As a downside it doesn’t have the pre-Td5 crossmember as an option if that bothers you. The Richards is a simpler construction and cheaper, and arguably more modifiable for things like roll cage mounts. However it’s a heavier construction.
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Thanks for the advice, with the Richards construction, in terms of “heavier” do you mean thicker steel? Just wondering if this may last a longer?
 
Yes, thicker steel. I think they used to do several options of thickness too.

Would last longer yes, though I wouldn’t see that as an issue as given that a non-galvanised chassis will do 25 years easily a galv one of any thickness should last long enough for anyone.
 
Retroanaconda said:
Yes, thicker steel. I think they used to do several options of thickness too.

Would last longer yes, though I wouldn’t see that as an issue as given that a non-galvanised chassis will do 25 years easily a galv one of any thickness should last long enough for anyone.
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True enough! Thanks for the info. I saw in your profile you are sw Scotland, I’m that area also.
 
Hello,

I'd go for it - re-chassis and rebuild it.

I replaced the chassis and bulkhead for galvanised on mine about four years ago...a word of warning, though - I also ended up replacing the seat-box, all the bushes, all the chassis brackets, the roof, the dampers, the steering-box, most of the interior...the list goes on. I also replaced every single bolt I took out for a stainless equivalent from LRM and I stopped adding up the bills about half-way through.

It's very hard, when you've got it all stripped down and you've spent ages cleaning and painting bits, to then bolt back on rusty old rubbish with rusty old bolts - if you can, you've got more self-control than me! I managed to strip and rebuild my Defender 110 in about 18 months, working on it every night and most weekends - I could probably have done it quicker if I'd just started out with an angle-grinder rather than a socket-set on the strip down :)

Good luck with it!
 
eprothe said:
Hello,

I'd go for it - re-chassis and rebuild it.

I replaced the chassis and bulkhead for galvanised on mine about four years ago...a word of warning, though - I also ended up replacing the seat-box, all the bushes, all the chassis brackets, the roof, the dampers, the steering-box, most of the interior...the list goes on. I also replaced every single bolt I took out for a stainless equivalent from LRM and I stopped adding up the bills about half-way through.

It's very hard, when you've got it all stripped down and you've spent ages cleaning and painting bits, to then bolt back on rusty old rubbish with rusty old bolts - if you can, you've got more self-control than me! I managed to strip and rebuild my Defender 110 in about 18 months, working on it every night and most weekends - I could probably have done it quicker if I'd just started out with an angle-grinder rather than a socket-set on the strip down :)

Good luck with it!
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Thanks for the encouragement! I was going to start a thread in the rebuild as a step by step. I just need to chose a chassis!!!
 
I'm re chasseing my 1996 90 at the moment and I would recommend budgeting 3x the chassis and labour costs for the bits you will find when work commences
this is a conservative estimate as you will probably want the bulkhead, seat box etc attending to as well as suspension and gearboxes, hub bearings, stub axles, swivels etc etc etc
 
As said the Richards one is thicker metal and adds significant weight. Saying that mines a Richards and I don't notice anything different MPG etc Plus probably balances out my roof tent.
 
Looked at Marsland but research showed some rework is often required, Holes filled with Galv, brackets not aligning fully, also looked at Shielder but was discouraged by feedback on here and other peoples experiences, Workshop I use have re chassis many defenders and as a coincidence they only recommend Richards, arrived when it should and only minor re threading required
 
Funonthefarm said:
Do you mind sharing your reasoning? Very interested in the Richards one
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The heavier construction was a bonus for me but the ability to have the older style rear cross member was the real winner. The later td5 style is not as strong if you want to mount a nato hItch. Also I would have needed to buy a new tow bar setup
 
Super thanks guys very helpful. On the marsland are all the rails the same across the 90 chassis?

and you are saying Richards is a little more substantial in general?
 
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