P38A Tips for torquing prop shaft bolts?

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ar1g3

ar1g3

Well-Known Member
Posts
148
Location
Belgium
Hi, this concerns my '99 4.0 automatic p38.

I have removed the prop shafts to allow me to remove the transfer case, and fix a leaky front diff pinion seal.

Now, I see the 4 prop shaft bolts on each flange need to be torqued to 48Nm. But how do I do this? The UJ's are in the way of getting a socket on the bolts so there's no way I can get my torque wrench in there.

Any advice?
 
or get the correct tool ?

1712130626316.png
 
pwood999 said:
or get the correct tool ?

View attachment 314179
Click to expand...
Thanks didn't know this existed! And big brother google conveniently displayed an ad for this tool right below your reply so I already know where to get it.

For future reference the tool is
- Sealey SX0110
- Laser Tools 6151
- Britpart DA1065

Seems applicable for all LR up until P38 (series, defender, discovery, range rover) so as I have two series waiting for restoration I will definitely need this tool again.
 
Anaconda said:
Don't bother, just do them up tight with a couple of spanners.
Nylon lock nuts anyway I expect.
Click to expand...

Yer buying a tool to use once then loose it in the abyss of the shed sh!te, Nylocks n 2 spanners is how its been done
since series landys were made. Torquing nuts n bolts is only good for new items not old over tightened ones that came
off lol.
 
ar1g3 said:
Thanks didn't know this existed! And big brother google conveniently displayed an ad for this tool right below your reply so I already know where to get it.

For future reference the tool is
- Sealey SX0110
- Laser Tools 6151
- Britpart DA1065

Seems applicable for all LR up until P38 (series, defender, discovery, range rover) so as I have two series waiting for restoration I will definitely need this tool again.
Click to expand...
Here is a photo of the tool in action:-

Screenshot 2024-04-04 at 09.09.09.jpg
 
I had used a 3/8" drive ratchet, extension and 9/16" deep socket along with a spanner for years. Never seemed to be super easy so I got one of the above tools added to an order to get the free postage from island 4x4. Its no easier but I got the 1/2" one, 3/8" one would be better IMHO.
 
Anaconda said:
I also have one but don't really find it that much easier to be honest. Sometime if the prop is in the wrong place the tool gets stuck in the uj housing anyway.
Click to expand...
That's what I'm afraid of too.

I did the front diff pinion seal today. Based on the above feedback I started looking if I could mimick the tool with standard extensions and sockets. The tool looks to be a short 9/16 socket with integrated extension piece. So with that in mind I started going through all my 'spare' tools (aka lost in the abyss of shed sh!te ;)) to see if I could maybe find a short 9/16 socket. Sure I did, in an old Stanley socket set I found a 3/8 drive 9/16 socket. In the end I used that 9/16" 3/8 drive socket, a 7cm 3/8 extension, adapter to 1/2 drive and then another 10 cm extension. Bit of a puzzle but in 1 specific position of the prop this worked. Bit awkward as I needed to rotate the prop for each bolt but it worked.

The trick is that the prop needs to be straight in line with the diff output shaft, in both vertical and horizontal plane. If this is not the case (will never be 100%) the rotation of the shaft is also important: for me there was a window of about 20 degrees where I was able to slip the socket onto the bolt.

The key is that you need a short socket, that's where the special tool is special: the extension is part of the socket which allows a shorter socket bit.

TL;DR you need to find a short 3/8 drive 9/16 socket and some adapters and extensions and it will work in much the same way as the tool described above. The length of the socket is crucial.


FYI if you replace the nyloc nuts (you should!) a 14mm socket may also work I've found.
 
ar1g3 said:
That's what I'm afraid of too.

I did the front diff pinion seal today. Based on the above feedback I started looking if I could mimick the tool with standard extensions and sockets. The tool looks to be a short 9/16 socket with integrated extension piece. So with that in mind I started going through all my 'spare' tools (aka lost in the abyss of shed sh!te ;)) to see if I could maybe find a short 9/16 socket. Sure I did, in an old Stanley socket set I found a 3/8 drive 9/16 socket. In the end I used that 9/16" 3/8 drive socket, a 7cm 3/8 extension, adapter to 1/2 drive and then another 10 cm extension. Bit of a puzzle but in 1 specific position of the prop this worked. Bit awkward as I needed to rotate the prop for each bolt but it worked.

The trick is that the prop needs to be straight in line with the diff output shaft, in both vertical and horizontal plane. If this is not the case (will never be 100%) the rotation of the shaft is also important: for me there was a window of about 20 degrees where I was able to slip the socket onto the bolt.

The key is that you need a short socket, that's where the special tool is special: the extension is part of the socket which allows a shorter socket bit.

TL;DR you need to find a short 3/8 drive 9/16 socket and some adapters and extensions and it will work in much the same way as the tool described above. The length of the socket is crucial.


FYI if you replace the nyloc nuts (you should!) a 14mm socket may also work I've found.
Click to expand...
14mm will work if not too tight, wrong size though.
 
I lashed out and bought the tool -£13.

I do have 3 Landies, and since I found loose prop bolts on my wife's 90, I am going to check them all every year when I grease the props - ergo, I will use more than once.

Tool seemed easy to use. I bought the 3/8 drive which (I think) gave me better access, especially on the front.

Could I have used 2 x 9/16 spanners? Yes. But, the tool positively engages over the bolt head when its in the right position and let me get the ratchet on to nip them up. No slipping spanners.

I replaced all the bolts and nuts - comes as a complete set and they are nyloc so (technically) single use.

As I said, did find my prop bolts were loose and resisted the temptation to loctite the bolts due to the new nyloc nuts.

Will probably run for a few miles then check and re torque the bolts. Just to be happy bolts not loose again.
 
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