Tips for storing a D90 over the winter in a heated underground parking

Dear forum members,

Each time I post here, I wanna first thank all the good people who have helped me so much with many many technical questions. Really appreciate it!!!

For the past year I've been investing heavily into my TD5 D90 and am very pleased with the results (knock on wood). I did a lot of mechanical stuff (axles, suspension), a lot of the fuel system, some light gaskets on the engine, had the rust repainted, renewed the interior, did the anti-corrosion, new lights all around and some cosmetic changes to make it like I imagined it being perfect for my taste.

Here are some photos:

What do You guys think? Did I spoil it for Your liking? I kept in mind that I shouldn't mess with permanent changes, so everything here is done using the existing holes, only 6 additional ones drilled (4 for the led bar holders, one for the battery switch and one for the battery charger so it can be charged/switched off without removing the seat).

And the main question: from now on I will only drive it in the spring/summer season (May-September). Other months will keep it underground in a heated parking. What would be Your advice or tips on how to do this?

1) Should I keep it under a cover? If so, then are there any specifics for choosing a cover?
2) Should I switch the battery off?
3) Should I come regularly to turn the engine on and maybe a light weekly drive inside the parking building?
4) Are there any strong negatives for keeping it stored for so many months in a row? I always hear from old school mechanics that it is crucial to drive any car and give the oils an opportunity to do their job. Is this true?
5) Is it better to change oil each spring before the season and then keep the used oil in for the storage period? Or better to change the oil in the end of the season and keep it standing with fresh clean oil?

Thank You all again for being a trusted and helpful group of enthusiasts. It feels like home for a (sometimes confused) Defender owner)

Vehicles prefer to be driven, but long term dry storage should not be an issue. The minimum you need to do is keep the battery charged, but you might want to consider some of the following:
If you cannot start and drive it occasionally I would remove the battery and keep it on a suitable trickle charger.
Used oil has corrosive contaminants, so think about changing the oil before you store it.
I would give it a full tank of fuel to prevent rusting in the tank and preserve the seals.
If you fit a cover make it a breathable one.
Fit an ultrasonic pest deterrent to a plug socket in the garage to keep mice and insects away.
If you can use chocks and leave in gear rather than using the parking brake.
With high profile tyres you are probably OK, but to be really sure of preventing flat spots, you could put it on axle stands and take the wheels off.

I would suggest giving it a very through wash, especially the chassis. Make sure there is no mud as it will hold moisture and corrode the steel. I have seen a lubricant some people use on door seals and other rubber bits so they don't dry. If you can then take it for an occassional drive and get it up to temperature.

Sell it. Defenders are vehicles that like to be driven all the time. They love, or at least mine does, being driven in the snow. In fact tbe entire reason I bought a Defender was specifically to tackle bad weather. But that's your choice.
As for modifications? Do what ever you want, it's your Landy at the end of the day.
When storing, start it and run it to temperature every other day at least.

Mine lives in a heated garage. I just park it up lol. Longest stint was 9months without being driven and it started first turn of the key....

For a battery isolator and a trickle charger and will be fine.

You don’t need to over think this, it ain’t a nervous Italian thoroughbred!

Well i for one think it looks great! No way I'd sell it.
If you're unable to drive it during the winter months for whatever reason then make sure it's clean and dry. Inflate the tyres up to the max to help prevent flat spots forming, just remember to adjust back to the proper pressure before you drive it!! Put a note on the window so you don't forget!
If you must start it, make sure it gets fully hot, that includes the exhaust, to get rid of any moisture from the initial cold start. Engines don't like being left to idle for long periods and don't get truly hot so a 30 min drive would be ideal

Thanks, guys for the comments!

Thanks, Flat! That's what my friend told me who owns 2 Defenders and parks them in a heated underground parking building.

Thank You for the compliment, Kermit!! I think so too. It took me some time to get it together, but the changes that I made seem to me to be subtle, but give a nice fresh look to the timeless classic. Just a touch, not a whole lot. I will do that with the tires. The reason that I don't want to drive it in the winter is the exceeding usage of salt on our roads. It is necessary and prevents major ice forming, but it hits the Defender hard and in one season lots of things start to corrode and rust. So I don't want to relive it anymore. Have driven it year round for 5 years. If I had the brains not to use it in the winter, it would have been in even better state. I should have bought another winter car for the winter. I put over 10 grand in the Defender now to get everything in good order. Could have just bought another car for 3k's and have a mint D90 from the start:|

Stock_90_TD5_SW said:

Thanks, guys for the comments!

Thanks, Flat! That's what my friend told me who owns 2 Defenders and parks them in a heated underground parking building.

Thank You for the compliment, Kermit!! I think so too. It took me some time to get it together, but the changes that I made seem to me to be subtle, but give a nice fresh look to the timeless classic. Just a touch, not a whole lot. I will do that with the tires. The reason that I don't want to drive it in the winter is the exceeding usage of salt on our roads. It is necessary and prevents major ice forming, but it hits the Defender hard and in one season lots of things start to corrode and rust. So I don't want to relive it anymore. Have driven it year round for 5 years. If I had the brains not to use it in the winter, it would have been in even better state. I should have bought another winter car for the winter. I put over 10 grand in the Defender now to get everything in good order. Could have just bought another car for 3k's and have a mint D90 from the start:|

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If salt is the problem, then I'd suggest a proper coating of a proper underbody wax, and a sacrificial anode - the was would need re-doing every year - the anode might last a bit longer - but way cheaper than 3K

And I agree - it's a smart looking deafener too

Disco1BFG said:

and a sacrificial anode

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OK, I get how that works on a boat where the prop and hull and in direct contact with water, but how does it work on a vehicle?

I can understand how a galvanised coating could act in this way as the whole chassis is covered, but I'm not sure I see how a dedicated anode would be able to have a big enough surface area in contact with water to make a difference on land.

In the same way ... I.E. the same way as galvanising...

I would first say looks great

Then I would have to ask, why are you storing it in the season of most fun

J

Disco1BFG said:

If salt is the problem,

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Probably not a problem they don’t use it here, sand is cheaper

J

As other have said, change the engine oils and fill the tank to prevent condensation forming, also hoover the chassis to get all the old poop out!

Mine lives outside, just started it for the first time in 3 months and it started immediately. I do however put the CTEK charger on it every 6 weeks or so.