Tips for replacing power steering rack?

So my power steering rack is shot - excessive play at each end of the hydraulic ram case causing constant & unbearable clunking and no possibility to adjust the factory-set Teflon bush internally to take up any slack in the internal system... time to tackle the job of removing and replacing the rack itself.

Official instructions say remove both drive-shafts (you know that's going to uncover additional issues at the hub) and fully removing the front subframe whilst supporting the engine / trans with a hoist...

Anyone here done this job and found that the official steps are a bit 'over-kill' for the job in hand?
I've managed to perform many removals 'the easy-way' as opposed to the 'official-way' and in this particular case I'm hoping for some valuable tips...

- in short... is it possible to create enough space to remove the steering rack by taking the weight of the engine / trans on an engine hoist - and not fully remove the subframe from below? I bet someone out there has swapped out a steering rack and found it possible with a shortened procedure...

Absolutely 100% certain without any doubt it's the rack.
Everything and I mean everything has been replaced and checked - started from the outside and worked my way in along each side - finally establishing the rack is the source of the problem.

Was advised by a rack-professional that 1st step was to try adjusting the 17mm alloy nut on the rack to see if it would take up the play in the system (this is set at the factory but can be adjusted in these cases to solve a little play along the ram) - that nut was already rounded off a little but accidently managed to twist it anti-clockwise a notch (loosening) and the knocking / play became worse... hence play in the ram / rack identified as the culprit. If I disconnect the inner tie rods from the rack ends and tap at the rack-ends with a rubber mallet you can hear the knocking along the rack & casing where there's play between the two components.

Anyone have any useul tips for completing this job on the drive-way?

Many thanks,
Marcus.

Not familiar with L322 rack, but all racks have a usually spring loaded or shimmed adjuster setting the clearance between rack and pinion gears. Sounds like there has been wear and someone has attempted to adjust the pinion to rack engagement and cocked the adjuster up. Knocking it back as you have done will obviously make the situation worse. You don't adjust something up and reduce play by undoing it unfortunately.

Mk 7 transits suffer similar and adjustment mearly lessened symptoms

Ahh yes I realized that after it happened - when the socket wouldn't grip the damaged-nut I thought "ah maybe if I break the seal by undoing it a tiny bit - I'll be able to get a twist the correct direction to take up the slack in the rack - it did undo about a 35 degrees but I couldn't get any clockwise grip on it"
Tried a Gator-Grip socket but the amount of nut actually available above the housing is so shallow that you can't get a grip on it with any type of tool... in a last ditch attempt I stuck an expanding bolt down the centre of the 'hollow-nut/bolt' to try get a little leverage on it but that didn't work either... so finally submitting to the need to switch out the rack :-(

fanatic said:

Mk 7 transits suffer similar and adjustment mearly lessened symptoms

Click to expand...

There was a time when you could buy spares to refurbish racks. It would seem the use until knackered then throw away system is working well in this day and age.

are these the bits you need? BTR5370 BORG & BECK STEERING RACK END L/R (Range Rover III 01/02-on) | eBay

if so could be a cheap fix for you

Hi RRKev - those are inner track-rod end... already have a lovely new set of those fitted...

My issue is with the central ram part of the steering rack - the whole hydraulic ram system needs replacing and I'm hoping someone on here has done it at home and has some tips...

ah sorry my mistake, i always thought that was a specialist job to refurb that part of the rack

Yes it would be Kev - that's why I'm opting for replacing the whole rack - looking for tips as the official instructions are often 'over-kill' and there are easier ways...

Anyone out there have any tips for removal / replacement methods?

:::::UPDATE:::::

Have been under the front end this morning and discovered something VERY useful...
would appreciate some feedback on this:

The official method for removing the steering rack is to lift the engine off its mounts - remove both front drive shafts (always problematic if they've been on there for a while) - then systematically undo and lower main front sub-frame out of the way to access and remove the steering rack itself... (that's the shortened version - much more to it than described).

::::What I've discovered::::

The very front end section of the subframe which attaches to the front left / right chassis beams (where the front bumper cross beam attaches) and it also attaches to the main front subframe (two large bolts) ... this very front section unbolts and can be manoeuvred away/tilted downwards from the main-front subframe (just in front of the steering rack) if I remove the front bumper and bumper cross-beam this can be achieved.

Then - by the look of things - if I remove each inner track-rods & steering column connection etc) I should be able to maneuverer the steering rack out from the front rather than below...

Don't say it sounds more difficult because this way I don't have to raise the engine or touch the main subframe (I my mind that option isn't for the faint-hearted working on the driveway).

If anyone has dismantled the front end of an L322 and understands what I'm suggesting... can you see any error in my thoughts that I have not considered?

There is almost always an easier way than the official way on all vehicles. same nonsense about dropping the subframe on my Transit to do the DMF, with a bit of imagination, it proved possible without disturbing anything.

My local indy replaced my steering rack a couple of years ago and all they needed to do was remove the driver's side inner track end, undo the subframe (I believe), disconnect the lower column from the rack and slide the rack out. Replacement was the reverse procedure and the whole job took less than two hours. They didn't need to remove the drive shafts or raise the engine and the whole job was 'pretty easy' according to them.

I got a refurbed rack off ebay for £150 and fitting by the indy cost me less than £100 (also had the rubber UJ and lower steering column replaced at the same time). Still got my old rack and column as I will prob get it refurbed at some stage to use as a spare, should I ever need one.

Thanks for that Discotigger - that sounds very similar to the process for a LHD model - as the lower steering column (pinion) casing would be clear of any obstructions on the left hand side - allowing to slide the whole rack out - but I think it's not the case for RHD... gonna slide underneath and have another look at this.... thanks.

An old thread but stumbled across this while looking for advice on how to change the rack on my Disco 3. I can report it took me around 45 mins to remove the rack yesterday from the point of having the vehicle up on axle stands, wheels off and track rod ends dropped out of the hubs. Process as follows:

- although you want to ensure steering wheel is straight when fitting, took a 1/4 turn left to rotate the steering column so the bottom torx bolt could be easily reached with a socket + extension bar from below.
- removed power steering pipes from rack, letting fluid drain into container (left cap on the reservoir and will fully drain before refitting).
- removed bolts at either end of rack that hold it to chassis
- at this point the rack was free and I was able to shuffle it left and right and remove it from the mounts in the chassis that its bolted to
- now lifting the rack in front of the mount points and rotating, there was enough clearance for the rack to drop out of the bottom of the steering column.
- now able to rotate further and extract the rack, with track rod ends still attached out of the drivers side wheel arch.

All in all, a lot simpler than I was expecting as I was really worried about disengaging from the steering column. In the end it was a non-event and not difficult at all. Now plenty of space to clean up and protect the chassis before refitting new rack.

Hope this is of some help.