P38A Tips for removing front ABS sensors

awkwardbob said:

Thanks folks.
I’m Persevering but I just can’t budge the bugger.
Tried to trace the cable route too but struggling to see where it joins, does it just go go into the fuse box ?

also, what might this curious beastie be ?
Looks like it might be EAS related but seems a little weird !

Click to expand...

From memory it has a plug somewhere near the brake flexi-hose. Pretty sure I recall something around there.

Ok so I found the connector, just under the battery.

the sensor measures 1Kohms but I couldn’t find a voltage on the other side of the connector at all.

that said, the wabco unit detected when the sensor was disconnected.

Ive popped it all back together again and now the fault massage is that normal
Rotation detected but right front sensor intermittently open circuit -likely
Because I’ve been trying to shift the bugger.

anyone have any thoughts ?
I’ll change the other side discs and pads to avoid the imbalance and any TC errors as a matter of course and carry on.

I think I May leave the sensor in that side well alone !

awkwardbob said:

Ok so I found the connector, just under the battery.

the sensor measures 1Kohms but I couldn’t find a voltage on the other side of the connector at all.

that said, the wabco unit detected when the sensor was disconnected.

Ive popped it all back together again and now the fault massage is that normal
Rotation detected but right front sensor intermittently open circuit -likely
Because I’ve been trying to shift the bugger.

anyone have any thoughts ?
I’ll change the other side discs and pads to avoid the imbalance and any TC errors as a matter of course and carry on.

I think I May leave the sensor in that side well alone !

Click to expand...

Can you check continuity with a test light and wiggle the wire in case it has an internal break? I cannot remember what the resistance should be but a kilaohm sounds high.

Around 800-900ohms if I remember correctly and it should fluctuate as you turn the relevant wheel..

So 975 ohms Isn’t too bad then
Just finishing off the NS brakes (seized caliper slider pin) and I’ll
Give it a wee test.

mum worried now I’ll
Have damaged the sensor with my ham-fisted attempts to
Shift it !

awkwardbob said:

So 975 ohms Isn’t too bad then
Just finishing off the NS brakes (seized caliper slider pin) and I’ll
Give it a wee test.

mum worried now I’ll
Have damaged the sensor with my ham-fisted attempts to
Shift it !

Click to expand...

Did you check the resistance while turning the wheel?

If your mum's involved you must be running out of options

Mark Piercy said:

Did you check the resistance while turning the wheel?

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ok, so, embarrassing question.

I jacked up the corner, put her in neutral took the handbrake off but I couldn’t freely rotate the wheel, only a quarter turn or so.

obviously I’m doing something stupid and missing something simple here...

I do have 3/4 sensors working now though !

awkwardbob said:

I jacked up the corner, put her in neutral took the handbrake off but I couldn’t freely rotate the wheel, only a quarter turn or so.

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you need to jack up two rear or two front wheels of the ground,,,,,,,,..

awkwardbob said:

ok, so, embarrassing question.

I jacked up the corner, put her in neutral took the handbrake off but I couldn’t freely rotate the wheel, only a quarter turn or so.

obviously I’m doing something stupid and missing something simple here...

I do have 3/4 sensors working now though !

Click to expand...

I'm jumping in here without reading all the posts but that sounds normal show's your viscous coupling is working.

tomcat59alan said:

I'm jumping in here without reading all the posts but that sounds normal show's your viscous coupling is working.

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Yea thats the test for the vc with a bit more force But to check abs sensor pulses you need two wheels off the ground ,Or take off the front shaft off then wheels will spin individual ,easer to just lift two wheels .

awkwardbob said:

ok, so, embarrassing question.

I jacked up the corner, put her in neutral took the handbrake off but I couldn’t freely rotate the wheel, only a quarter turn or so.

obviously I’m doing something stupid and missing something simple here...

I do have 3/4 sensors working now though !

Click to expand...

That's perfectly normal. Lift the other wheel up on the same axle otherwise you're fighting the viscous coupling.

Thanks Folks,

I did actually wonder about something like that (honestly I did !)

will try both wheels when I get a chance.

need to locate where the pesky NSF beastie connects (the OSF was right under the fuse box)

thanks again

Bob

awkwardbob said:

Thanks Folks,

I did actually wonder about something like that (honestly I did !)

will try both wheels when I get a chance.

need to locate where the pesky NSF beastie connects (the OSF was right under the fuse box)

thanks again

Bob

Click to expand...

May be under the air filter box, it's been a while since I did mine.

A thing that mine does ,is if i jack up both front and put on ignition ,but not started ...... i spin one wheel and the abs nocks on and off on that axel as both wheels spin in opposite directions .But it don't do it on the back ...strange anyway try that see if yours the same .might tell if the fronts working , ..oh i think there should be 1.5 ..1.7 ohms resistance open circuit its duff...

awkwardbob said:

Thanks Folks,

I did actually wonder about something like that (honestly I did !)



will try both wheels when I get a chance.

need to locate where the pesky NSF beastie connects (the OSF was right under the fuse box)

thanks again

Bob

Click to expand...

It's on top of the inner wing just behind that air filter next to the brake flexible conector