Classic Timming problem

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If there's a spark I would advance it till the engine locks up when you try and start it, (like flat battery) then knock it back a bit. if that dont work it's probably fuel but easy start should make it fire.

Mine had 4.2 heads, it was on su's , another thing could be condenser if you're on points
 
landowner said:
If there's a spark I would advance it till the engine locks up when you try and start it, (like flat battery) then knock it back a bit. if that dont work it's probably fuel but easy start should make it fire.

Mine had 4.2 heads, it was on su's , another thing could be condenser if you're on points
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plus one re condenser and apparently modern ones are sh!t made in China, But if he bought a new dizzy it is probably a contactless. It ought to be, eliminates a whole world of probs and they are cheap enough and reliable enough now. Just needs one more connection.
Now I'm wondering if that is the problem.:eek:
 
landowner said:
If there's a spark I would advance it till the engine locks up when you try and start it, (like flat battery) then knock it back a bit. if that dont work it's probably fuel but easy start should make it fire.

Mine had 4.2 heads, it was on su's , another thing could be condenser if you're on points
Click to expand...
My 4.2 went down for weeks until I replaced the coil and condenser.
 
He could try tightening the plug gaps a thou or two under spec to ensure a proper spark gets to the mixture.
Old skool technique for starting a car that has been stood a long time!;)
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Checking back to his first post he mentioned the "ignition module" on the side of the dizzy, so I think it must be electronic ignition. so no condenser or points. However the coil MUST be matched.
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It took me ages to figure it out. A gentleman I connected with on a Facebook group suggested it could be the coil. I then found a YouTube video on how to check a coil with voltmeter. Sure enough it was bad. $30 later I was back on the road.
 
As it was running fine before you removed the dizzy then it isn't the 4.2 heads.

After sustained cranking have you pulled the plugs & are they wet or dry?

I'm assuming you've tried holding a plug against the engine & checking that you have a good spark when cranking?
And that if you hold the lead from the coil to the dizzy close to the block - 6mm or so - there is a good strong spark jumping the gap?

Is it possible a connection in the wiring has been damaged, incl breaks within a wire - especially at plugs & sockets where you have fitted new items or disturbed connectors?
Try getting someone to crank whilst you wiggle the connectors.

My workshop manual covers testing the ignition system - about 4 pages worth.
I think you will have the Lucas 35DLM8 distributor.
There are online copies of the manual which were very good but they now usually rapidly disappear under a load of pop-ups & general garbage. Several of which invite you to 'Download pdf'. I've never tried clicking on the 'Download pdf' boxes so have no idea what sort of computery problems you might get if you do!

It's here, but be careful what you click on - 'NEXT PAGE' and 'PREV PAGE' will take you from one page to the next & you'll need to view all pages for all the checks. The grey slide bar at the bottom just above 'next page' and 'prev page' will scroll you across each page so you can see all that's there.
Land Rover Workshop Manuals > Range Rover Classic > 86 - ELECTRICAL > FAULT DIAGNOSIS > Page 1064 (workshop-manuals.com)
 
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marjon said:
I wouldn’t think much difference with the 4.2 heads. But have you checked the specs and compatibility (I don’t know)
Did it run before and do you have old heads?

J
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Hi the vehicle already had the heads fitted. Plus i had it running weeks ago only for a few minutes
 
marjon said:
That’s not even catching in my mind.
Back to basics I am afraid:(

J
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So im going to take off the rocker cover..can i just verify this procedure.if i turn engine over untill the inlet valve on number 1 cylinder goes down opens then keep turning untill it comes back up fully closed piston at tdc rotor pointing to number1 on cap will this run is this right.
 
Stanleysteamer said:
plus one re condenser and apparently modern ones are sh!t made in China, But if he bought a new dizzy it is probably a contactless. It ought to be, eliminates a whole world of probs and they are cheap enough and reliable enough now. Just needs one more connection.
Now I'm wondering if that is the problem.:eek:
Click to expand...
The E type never moves without a spare coil, condenser and points in the boot and the tools to fit them.;)
 
smudge67999 said:
So im going to take off the rocker cover..can i just verify this procedure.if i turn engine over untill the inlet valve on number 1 cylinder goes down opens then keep turning untill it comes back up fully closed piston at tdc rotor pointing to number1 on cap will this run is this right.
Click to expand...

Yes - providing no electrical or fuelling faults stopping a good spark or fuel delivery.

The TDC mark on the crank pulley should also be more-or-less lined up with the pointer.

The timing at that point should allow it to run & fine tuning can be done later.
 
Ratae said:
Yes - providing no electrical or fuelling faults stopping a good spark or fuel delivery.

The TDC mark on the crank pulley should also be more-or-less lined up with the pointer.

The timing at that point should allow it to run & fine tuning can be done later.
Click to expand...
Hi just let you know the distrubutor i brought was off ebay off a guy name simon he fully rebuilds them .he comes straight up in search engine .its not the cheap chinese ones
 
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