Timing issues

Hi All
Just replaced points, condensor, rotor arm and cap on 2.2 petrol 3MB E engine and cant get the timing right!!

TDC doesnt work neither does 6 degrees....you can rest a coin on the rocker cover and it wont move but at the exhaust end it sounds like its occasionally misfiring??

At TDC its too advanced and wont switch off but goes like a rocket and at 6 its rough.

We've done it by ear but its still not right. Im not sure whether the pulley is original or the timing mark which is the later claw type is correct.

Theres a central control panel on the dash with cold start switch and the cold start light flickers on and off.....isnt cold start for a diesel engine??

Excuse the newbie questions but Im well.....a newbie to the series 3!!

Help!!!

How are you checking it, with a strobe or static? the chain and gears do wear and can mean its impossible to time. 6 deg static is about right for modern fuel but if your using a strobe you need to factor advance in which is not easy.
Remember the diz advances over 400rpm and has a vac and a centrifugal mechanism. It may be that your dizzy is not keeping a consistent advance and its jumping about? use a strobe to check this. Check vac advance line etc.
good luck
you are timing it btdc not atdc right! the btdc mark is the left most pointer so your crank mark hits that first ( before tdc)

Cheers Ron
Now timed up at 6 BTDC, all matches static and on probe. Checked that number 1 piston was top as well. It runs really well and sounds sweet but it still runs on for a second on two when ignition switched off?? Valve seats havent been modded for unleaded so maybe its something to do with high octane. I do add castrol mix to the fuel.

For anyone else who owns Haynes manuals be very careful. In one sentence in says 6 BTDC and another 6 ATDC!!

mac if its running on its likely a carburettor issue or a build up of coke in the combustion chamber. Mine would run on on my old zenith, my new weber doesnt. It could be too rich or maybe lean? Try a colourtune plug perhaps or gas analyzer at a local garage. Fiddling withe mixture is a last resort!

The cold start light is operated by a switch on the choke cable. Check the choke flap is opening completely 'cos this will affect tickover and running. Could be a red herring and just a faulty switch.

Thanks for all your help people! I think it may be carburettor issues now. I used some carb cleaner and its slightly better altho the temp gauge hovers just under the red now when it used to sit halfway. What is really weird is that when I open the drivers vent the cold start light comes on....I thought I was going mad but its definitely happening!!!

Running cool is a sign its rich perhaps, more fuel in means more latent heat taken out and lower temps. Strip the carb, clean it out and put it back making sure it mates together flush, check the choke and adjust the cable. Its only an hours job

macdoog said:

Thanks for all your help people! I think it may be carburettor issues now. I used some carb cleaner and its slightly better altho the temp gauge hovers just under the red now when it used to sit halfway. What is really weird is that when I open the drivers vent the cold start light comes on....I thought I was going mad but its definitely happening!!!

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Sounds like the choke cable is caught up in the flap mechanism - or it's rubbing against a frayed cable.

I will strip carb this week end and find out where the choke cable is getting caught up!!

macdoog said:

I will strip carb this week end and find out where the choke cable is getting caught up!!

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The choke cable is outside of the carb so you can check it without stripping it.