Both K series engines (the K4 and KV6) are timed in the "safe" position, which means the cams can be turned as necessary to get to the correct timing position, and not worry about the pistons hitting valves.
Freelander 1 Timing Belt Change
- Thread starter thefrog
- Start date
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Both K series engines (the K4 and KV6) are timed in the "safe" position, which means the cams can be turned as necessary to get to the correct timing position, and not worry about the pistons hitting valves.
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I think we have got to the bottom of it.
Like me, who is old, the OP needed to know that these engines are not timed to the cams at TDC.
htr
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Cam belt change is not that tricky. It is best if you do have that cam locking tool. When all the timing marks line up correctly the replacement belt goes on quite easily. If they are NOT perfectly lined up it can be quite hard.
Seeing as you have the area 'open' will you change the coolant pump and thermostat as well as the tensioner? It means you have to drain the coolant
...
As you have worked out - that 'VVT' marking is a RED HERRING! ignore it.
Seeing as you have the area 'open' will you change the coolant pump and thermostat as well as the tensioner? It means you have to drain the coolant
...As you have worked out - that 'VVT' marking is a RED HERRING! ignore it.
Yes I will drain the liquid, change the pump and the tensioner.
I have the cam locking tool and the flywheel locking tool. I try to minimize the risks, as its my first timing belt change.
The only thing I miss is a small dynamo metric Wrench (Is this the word in English? ) to tighten the water pump nuts to the right force.
I bought a kit from Gates with an automatic tensioner
I hope its an automatic tensioner on my car...its 2002 so it should be good
I have the cam locking tool and the flywheel locking tool. I try to minimize the risks, as its my first timing belt change.
The only thing I miss is a small dynamo metric Wrench (Is this the word in English? ) to tighten the water pump nuts to the right force.
I bought a kit from Gates with an automatic tensioner
I hope its an automatic tensioner on my car...its 2002 so it should be good
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"Torque wrench" is the English term.
Either you are of English descent, or you're not but your English is very good,
(Or Translators have got good, but then they would have given you "torque wrench"
)De toute façon, bonne chance, mon vieux !
They're not tight. A ¼ inch ratchet handle is enough, as they are just "nipped up" enough to stop the bolts unscrewing by themselves. The pump is sealed with a rubber O ring, so the bolts are tightened enough to prevent it from leaking.
I never use a torque wrench for bolts like those, as for the most part it's not necessary.
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Above all don't go too beefy on tightening those bolts.
Tests have proved that when people try to judge torque without a proper torque wrench, they over torque the small ones and under torque the big ones.
What torque are they supposed to be done up to and can you get a simple torque indicating wrench in there?
Like this one?
Tests have proved that when people try to judge torque without a proper torque wrench, they over torque the small ones and under torque the big ones.
What torque are they supposed to be done up to and can you get a simple torque indicating wrench in there?
Like this one?
Hi thanks, yes my Dad was English, so I picked it up...
I have made progress and positioned the wheels correctly I think.
I will put the locking tool for the cam shaft and the flywheel locking tool
Then drain the water, and remove the tensioner
Hopefully nothing will move !
I have made progress and positioned the wheels correctly I think.
I will put the locking tool for the cam shaft and the flywheel locking tool
Then drain the water, and remove the tensioner
Hopefully nothing will move !
With a straight edge across the centre of the cam retaining bolts, the timing marks should also be in line with the straight edge. If the timing marks are above or below the straight edge, then the timing will be wrong.
Alibro
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I just saw this post now. I've replaced a couple of timing belts on K series and was always confused by the position of the crank cog when the pulley was removed. Easy answer is put the pulley back on and carry on.HI Everyone,
I'm trying to change the timing belt on my 1.8 Freelander. It has been done last in 2011
I've positioned the pulley to TDC, locked the fly wheel with a special tool, and removed the big pulley wheel. As you can see in the picture, the cog is not aligned correctly.
Does this mean that the previous guy didn't position correctly the pulley after changing the time belt ?
So it's not really important how you place the big pulley wheel ?
Thanks
I found it hard to fit the timing belt with the cam pulleys locked as the tension from the exhaust pulley to the crank pulley needs to be very tight so you may need to turn the crank back a tad to get the timing belt on.
Hi Everyone,
I finally did it !! thanks for your help.
I've found its difficult to place the belt. So I removed the tensioner, placed the belt, and only then did I put back the tensioner.
I'm putting all back to together now... Its minus 3 degrees here..So that will be fun...
I finally did it !! thanks for your help.
I've found its difficult to place the belt. So I removed the tensioner, placed the belt, and only then did I put back the tensioner.
I'm putting all back to together now... Its minus 3 degrees here..So that will be fun...
Colthebrummie
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When I read cam belt changes threads like this, I start to think the cost of getting a garage to do it is justifyable.
Col
Col
I've heard of K series owners being quoted £450 for a timing belt change, which is daylight robbery. It's under a 2 hour job for someone who does it a lot in a fully equipped workshop.
The FL2 is the same, although the quotes are even more ridiculous, like £750 for a simple timing belt.
It would take me under 3 hours to do my FL2 timing belt with about £100 for parts, so a £750 quote is taking the ****.
Colthebrummie
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You're probably right but for someone who has never done it and having to work out on the road in unpredictable weather and without the special tools, its most likey to take all day. My local indie quoted me £300 to change the belt, tensioner and water pump about 3 years ago when I had my freelander. The last belt I changed was on a Lancia Beta coupe and it was a right pig of a job.I've heard of K series owners being quoted £450 for a timing belt change, which is daylight robbery. It's under a 2 hour job for someone who does it a lot in a fully equipped workshop.
The FL2 is the same, although the quotes are even more ridiculous, like £750 for a simple timing belt.
It would take me under 3 hours to do my FL2 timing belt with about £100 for parts, so a £750 quote is taking the ****.
Col
GrumpyGel
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The timing belt is the only job I haven't done on my (L Series) Freelander. Reason being that its not a simple job, its tucked away down the narrow space at the end of the engine with restricted vision/access and if you get it wrong, you create a hell of a mess.
So both times I've had it done, its gone into a garage. The first time was 10 years ago and he charged $1k - £500. Was a bit steep I thought, but he did change all 3 belts and associated tensioners/pulleys etc - and as it was something I wasn't prepared to risk, I didn't mind paying what I thought was a highish price. I forget what the 2nd one cost.
So both times I've had it done, its gone into a garage. The first time was 10 years ago and he charged $1k - £500. Was a bit steep I thought, but he did change all 3 belts and associated tensioners/pulleys etc - and as it was something I wasn't prepared to risk, I didn't mind paying what I thought was a highish price. I forget what the 2nd one cost.
Alibro
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Double and treble check the timing marks line up perfectly. It is very common for the belt to end up one tooth out on the exhaust pulley so when the crank is correct the two cam pulleys look half a tooth out.
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totally +1^.I've heard of K series owners being quoted £450 for a timing belt change, which is daylight robbery. It's under a 2 hour job for someone who does it a lot in a fully equipped workshop.
The FL2 is the same, although the quotes are even more ridiculous, like £750 for a simple timing belt.
It would take me under 3 hours to do my FL2 timing belt with about £100 for parts, so a £750 quote is taking the ****.
Is a licence to print money as the average punter doesn't realise how basically easy it is. no heavy lifting, just spannering.
Colthebrummie
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I dunno about that, there seem to be plenty on here who have trouble. One mistake could be disasterous.totally +1^.
Is a licence to print money as the average punter doesn't realise how basically easy it is. no heavy lifting, just spannering.
Col
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Well I do appreciate that it maybe takes balls to do the first one, but I'd still rather do one than change a gearbox purely because of the difficulties of handling.
Maybe it's cos I've done so many. But I still think garages that charge that are taking the p!ss.
You do have to be careful, no doubt about that.
I have the wife's Pluriel to do soon, which is similar so I'll get back to the thread once I've done it!
