Time to Start Doing a Few Jobs

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The interior colour is known as alpaca.

I’ll check and get a part number for the reverse light switch - is it a 1.8 or a Td4?

What is the switch you have already?
 
Its a 1.8 2004.

And the switch i got sent...
 

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You need a CDU51L and according to wiring diagrams it is indeed bullet connectors for the reverse light switch.

The switch with the multi plug on is the first gear switch
 
Thanks for the info. That is indeed the switch i have got and indeed, the one everyone says is the correct one for my car. Serves me right for relying on dodgy youtube vidoes where someone has advised that on the 1.8, the switch is the one at the lower front left of the box, with the multiplug connector going into it.

Has anyone got any pics/info as to it location. I did read somewhere that its on top of the gearbox, under the airbox, but given my info regarding the switch so far, i thought i should check!!!!!
 
td4van said:
The interior colour is known as alpaca.

I’ll check and get a part number for the reverse light switch - is it a 1.8 or a Td4?

What is the switch you have already?
Click to expand...
Many thanks for the interior info. Just on the look out for an alcantara seat in that colour. A bit rare. I think rimmers sell original squabs to go over the foam, but will only do that as a last resort as they are nearly 300 quid from them. Will keep an eye on eblag in the meantime!
 
still getting a nice parts box put by, even though i havent done any work yet. Still waiting for my hols. The next few things i have started to concern myself with are my sagging roof lining. The dealer i bought the car from steam cleaned the interior and did a lovely job however, every single bit of roof lining, apart from the bits held in place by fixtures and fittings, has drooped, so have ordered replacement roof lining material and spray adhesive to fix that. Pics to follow.

Then there my issue with my passenger front door. Initially i was going to get a new regulator, but wanted to check my symptomsfirst. When using the remote, it locks with all the rest, but will not unlock. However, when using the lock facility on the driver door switch bank, it wont do anything!! Does this sound like its knackered or possibly a repair! Also, anyone got any pics of one of these, so i know what im looking for.

The next thing is audio. I have already installed my headunit together with the relevant adaptor that lets my use the steering wheel controls. It was the easiest install of any car i ever had, However the speakers just dont have enough clarity or bass and was looking at aftermarket ones. However, my experiance with various 4X4s in the past has tought me that the doors always tend to be a bit shallow and fit the wrong ones, and they start interfering with the windows etc.

Can anyone recommend some decent aftermarket ones that will fit without probs. I understand that ill probrably need spacers! Some pics would be usefull.

Cheers all.
 
selkent1 said:
Then there my issue with my passenger front door. Initially i was going to get a new regulator, but wanted to check my symptomsfirst. When using the remote, it locks with all the rest, but will not unlock. However, when using the lock facility on the driver door switch bank, it wont do anything!! Does this sound like its knackered or possibly a repair! Also, anyone got any pics of one of these, so i know what im looking for.
Click to expand...
Sounds like it needs a new lock actuator.
selkent1 said:
Can anyone recommend some decent aftermarket ones that will fit without probs. I understand that ill probrably need spacers!
Click to expand...

You're limited as to how deep the speaker basket can be.
I installed some JVC 6.5" door speakers, and added a sub to the boot. There's little point in trying to extract too much bass from the door speakers, as the door just ends up rattling, which harms the sound anyway. ;)
 
Have been putting up with my banging noise when going round corners for a while now and it has been getting steadily worse, even to the point of now starting to do it occasionally while going in a straight line, and going on most of the advice ive seen, thought it was the dreaded VCU, however i havent got any of the "tightness" associated with that. I gave the car to a colleague at work (whom has a freelander and is a bit more experianced with them than me), and he said he did the "wheel up" test and it was fine, and suggested that it was knackered diff mounts. So got a new set and made sure the front one had a poly in it as i understand they wear out quickly.





After a few grazed knuckles and some slight swearing, i got them replaced and even though it has made some difference to the knocking noise, quite a bit actually, it is still there though. While underneath i did notice what appeared to be a lot of sagging (for want of a better word) in the VCU carriers. The rear one being verry wobbly!





Could knackered carriers give the knocking noise i have described.
 
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As i said before, the knocking appears to be coming from just behind the front seats. I think that maybe this would tie in with the position of that rear propshaft carrier. It might also be worth mentioning that the camber of the road appears to make a difference to the severity of the noise as does the load i put in the car.
 
The vcu/prop support bearings sounds about right if there's a bang from the center of the car - not had them go on mine. The sound does travel with these knocks though and sometimes appears to come from a different place than it is actually occurring.
 
Cheers for the info. So far (although im not sure how good my hearing is!) it doesnt appear to move, and can best be described as a fast knocking sound that defo appears to be coming from the middle, just behind the front seats. A lot better since replacing the diff mounts.

It might also be worth mentioning that the speed of the knocking increases with the speed of the car!

I dont mind replacing the VCU with a recon part if i have to, but why spend if you dont have to!

Anyone got any other ideas as to what this could be or had similar experiance.
 
You can replace just the support bearings, there's no need to replace the vcu if it is working OK.

I'd have thought that you need to replace the bearings though if you replace the vcu as you can't easily remove them without damaging them - although others may disagree.
 
Again, cheers for the response. I think ill just go with the hangers this time around as i think others have had similar sucess with the "wheel up" test. The only noise i can comare it too is once i had another car (BMW) and i had a failed cv joint and the noise is similar to that. Will get some hangers ordered up and hopefully all will be well!
 
So far today i managed to finally replace the reverse light switch so i now have my parking sensors working again, and have replace all (leaking) camshaft oil seals. Nice easy job that one. While i had the sprokets off i replaced the timing belt as well.

Then i have moved onto the dreaded VCU. My replacement bearings turned up yesterday and i managed to get the thing off this morning. Was suprised how much it weighs!!!!

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Will get some more pics up of this job as i go. Without the info from this forum i would be lost so far!
 
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