Freelander 1 Time to spend on repairs - how frugal can I be?

chipfork · Oct 23, 2015

There were a few advisories on my last MOT and given the clunking/knocking appears to be worsening it's time to get them sorted.

The following were picked up; NSF Track Rod End (£60), NSF ARB linkage (£72) and rear diff bush (£70).

I would guess changing in pairs makes most sense? The price above is what I've been quoted for each, what are people's thoughts on sourcing the parts themselves? Garage trade discount versus deals on eBay or wherever, some cheap offers but are they worth the risk in terms of quality? Any recommended brands? Anything else worth addressing while it's on the lift and being pulled apart?

My OSR window decided to fail a little while back. I've not stripped it completely as I didn't think I'd get it back together

I've taken a look and wedged it for now.

My garage has quoted £131 for a replacement regulator and fitting. The cable looks ok to me, there appears to be clip on the cable that should attach to a hole/recess on the bottom of the glass. It's just floating about, looks like a bolt hole but I can find nothing floating around that would secure this. Any thoughts, is one of the repair kits worth a try or am I better sourcing a regulator and if so is eBay the best option? Also is this a job a ham-fisted amateur could have a go at?

Otherwise my 2003 hippo is running well (touch wood). I've just picked up a pair of part worn Conti winter tyres in anticipation of the supposed poor winter ahead. I don't do much mileage at all so left the winters on from last year and they've been surprisingly resilient. The fronts have worn a fair bit but the rears still have 5 mm so I'll swap them to the front and put the newer tyres at the back..

Thanks

wammers · Oct 23, 2015

Track rod end £60.00. Anti roll bar link £72.00. Are you sure it's not a Lamborghini?

xpuser8334 · Oct 23, 2015

I know I'm going to be shot down in flames... but.... eBay items - especially the cheap ones are only any good to get the car through an MOT ready to sell on.
i've bought loads of cheap NEW eBay parts for many different types of car, but the general rule of thumb is - "if you get 10 to 12 months from the part - you have done really well".
Garages like to source the parts themselves, to reduce the amount of people going back "because the noise or play has come back" - due to a cheap failing part.
Usually garage parts suppliers offer a guarantee to the garage - in many cases, if genuine parts are supplied, this guarantee is up to 2 years.
If the car is going to remain with you for a while, It's always best getting a good quality part. - if you intend getting shut of it within 10 to 12 months.... cheap parts would be ok.... but the buyer wouldn't like you after a few months of owning it.
Good luck, but the prices quoted...are probably in the region of being OK... maybe 10 to £15 too high.
for example.. the ARB Links... the job..... wheel off.. spray double "u" Dee Forty on the nuts and leave for ten mins. these can be simple to do.... other times they can be a right pig.... either way.. I've done these in less than 20mins per side...
The track rod end.... maybe a little steep. but I'm sure the garage would include tracking at that price.
these can be easy at times.... other times, they seize on the thread and need some heat and WD to help get the old one off.... again, a 25 to 30min job.
the jobs mentioned are NOT difficult DIY jobs and would probably cost about £70 in parts for good quality items - and a learning curve if you haven't done it before.
before tackling any of the jobs... read how to do the track rod end properly so you don't screw your steering geometry up completely.

wammers · Oct 23, 2015

xpuser8334 said:
I know I'm going to be shot down in flames... but.... eBay items - especially the cheap ones are only any good to get the car through an MOT ready to sell on.
i've bought loads of cheap NEW eBay parts for many different types of car, but the general rule of thumb is - "if you get 10 to 12 months from the part - you have done really well".
Garages like to source the parts themselves, to reduce the amount of people going back "because the noise or play has come back" - due to a cheap failing part.
Usually garage parts suppliers offer a guarantee to the garage - in many cases, if genuine parts are supplied, this guarantee is up to 2 years.
If the car is going to remain with you for a while, It's always best getting a good quality part. - if you intend getting shut of it within 10 to 12 months.... cheap parts would be ok.... but the buyer wouldn't like you after a few months of owning it.
Good luck, but the prices quoted...are probably in the region of being OK... maybe 10 to £15 too high.
for example.. the ARB Links... the job..... wheel off.. spray double "u" Dee Forty on the nuts and leave for ten mins. these can be simple to do.... other times they can be a right pig.... either way.. I've done these in less than 20mins per side...
The track rod end.... maybe a little steep. but I'm sure the garage would include tracking at that price.
these can be easy at times.... other times, they seize on the thread and need some heat and WD to help get the old one off.... again, a 25 to 30min job.
the jobs mentioned are NOT difficult DIY jobs and would probably cost about £70 in parts for good quality items - and a learning curve if you haven't done it before.
before tackling any of the jobs... read how to do the track rod end properly so you don't screw your steering geometry up completely.

You maybe surprised to learn that WD40 is not a release agent. I was thinking more of him doing the jobs himself in which case even genuine parts would be considerably less than that. Pattern parts less than £25.00 for both items. But if it's a garage quote i suppose they do have to make a living.

chipfork · Oct 23, 2015

Thanks, the prices include labour if that helps. This independent garage I trust, the labour rates are low and there is good reason why they get so much repeat work, the quality is there too. The master cylinder they replaced some time ago packed up, replaced and repaired FOC, not a quibble.

I'm all for having a go myself but have little working space and a course absorbs most of my free time. Plus I know from experience an aging car often makes seemingly easy jobs a nightmare.

I'll probably not keep the car for much longer but then I said that 2 years ago. Letting the garage source the parts provides that warranty so that's where I'm leaning. The pricing was a quick guide on a scrap of paper, I'd firm up a quote and see where it sits now they've forgotten that quote.

The regulator is the pricey part, if it's repairable or swap'able myself then I might take that on although the chock in the door frame works quite well

B34R · Oct 23, 2015

If you have a crack, suspension components with balljoints in can be a massive pain in the arse once the threads are rusted.
Before unbolting anything run through the exposed threads with a sharp screwdriver then soak them in oil - it'll come off a LOT easier.

Freelander 1 Time to spend on repairs - how frugal can I be?

chipfork

Active Member

wammers

No longer with us, RIP

xpuser8334

Active Member

wammers

No longer with us, RIP

chipfork

Active Member

B34R

Active Member

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