Freelander 1 Time to burn it?

Hi everyone... as the title suggests, I’m a match strike away from setting fire to the wife’s 2004 freelander.
Yep it’s a 1.8!

Had the HG done about 3 weeks ago along with timing belt etc...

My issue as it stands:
From cold the car starts up straight away. Once it’s at temp it will idle around the 750 mark. I rev it and as the revs come back down it goes below idle and cuts out.
I can’t start the car again unless I press the accelerator pedal.

I’ve changed the iacv for a new one and it’s still the same. If i unplug the iacv once warm, it will idle all day and drive perfect until you turn the engine off obviously.

Anyone got any ideas? Or am I being incredibly stupid and missing something simple?

Cheers,
Joss

Make sure all electrical connections are secure. I'm assuming the fault wasn't there before the HG was replaced.
Do a diagnostic on it to see if it's showing anything.
It could also have an air leak into the inlet manifold, which is bypassing the IACV.

It could be that the engine parameters have changed after the HG and the ECU needs to re-learn the idle characteristics, although unlikely, unless the timing is now wrong.

Thanks for the reply!
No the fault wasnt there before HG replacement.
Diagnostics showed a fuel trim fault which was sorted with a new Lambda sensor.
I changed the map and coolant temp sensor as well

As for an air leak, would I be looking around where the inlet meets cylinder head?

The idle wasn’t steady before the hg fault but never stalled. Is it possible to reset the Ecu? I’ve read some stuff about the go to memory (kam) or something?

That was my initial thought but have checked the timing and it looks ok.

Kelljwk said:

I changed the map and coolant temp sensor as well

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I'd be tempted to put the old MAP sensor back in, just in case there's a fault with the replacement.

Kelljwk said:

As for an air leak, would I be looking around where the inlet meets cylinder head?

Click to expand...

Check for leaks on the inlet side of the head, basically remove the brake servo pipe and plug it up. It's not unheard of for the servo diaphragm to split, upsetting the idle.

Kelljwk said:

Is it possible to reset the Ecu? I’ve read some stuff about the go to memory (kam) or something?

Click to expand...

LR can re-set the ECU adaptation values back to factory spec. This can cure problems caused by rouge values being stored.

Kelljwk said:

That was my initial thought but have checked the timing and it looks ok

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It's easy to be 1 tooth out on the crank, which will affect the way the engine runs.

Your car is running an EOBD compliant ECU, so getting fault codes and even "live" data from the car will be simple. You just need a diagnostic reader.

The problem is odd - and stranger too that it should occur after major engine work. In general, an inlet manifold leak should make the engine run faster - not stall on lifting the throttle when the engine is warm. To me, it sounds as though either not enough air or not enough fuel. The former is much more likely IMO. It may be a fault with a sensor - throttle position, inlet pressure or inlet temperature. As Nodge says, go through the wiring and make sure all the connectors are connected(!) and that there is no obvious loom damage.

My hunch is that this will be something relatively simple.

Hi guys... sorry for the late update. Lack of light and energy after work has made it pretty difficult.

Right....
I checked the timing and it looked to be ok but was in fact a tooth out. I timed it up and it now idles and returns to idle after driving and engaging the clutch.
Although the revs drop to 500ish then picks back up and still hunts but not as much. Still can’t be started unless accelerator is pressed.

I have checked every connector and sensor - all seem ok. As Nodge said I put my old map sensor back on and it was no different.

I now have a P0170 (Pending) fuel trim malfunction. Which appeared with the EML on the way to work.
I’ve borrowed a code reader that shows live data so will have a go tonight.

Is there any values I should look at in particular? Or that will be out of the ordinary with a vacuum leak as you both suggested?

Glad you found the problem! Sorry to hear that the timing was incorrect. But correcting this problem should have restored things - so as you say, something else is not quite right.

From live data, check all the sensor values "make sense". Also, might be an idea to run a compression test?