This is absolutely depressing

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I rebuilt the engine in the Xtrail in 2015 shes finally worn out again towing cars and big boats now she can barely make it up hills towing a load had to rop her back to 2nd gear to get up a hill last weekend towing my 4.5m boat so Im hopping the Land Rover works out better being diesel
 
WildOne said:
I rebuilt the engine in the Xtrail in 2015 shes finally worn out again towing cars and big boats now she can barely make it up hills towing a load had to rop her back to 2nd gear to get up a hill last weekend towing my 4.5m boat so Im hopping the Land Rover works out better being diesel
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Diesel Xtrails are much stronger than Freelanders for towing in my experience.
 
Alibro said:
I had two Xtrails in the past and have to say they were great cars. I had a TPS fail on one and some engine sensor that made the other go into limp mode causing a visit to the dealer but apart from that they were great... if a little boring.
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crank sensor... i had the same.
 
WildOne said:
I rebuilt the engine in the Xtrail in 2015 shes finally worn out again towing cars and big boats now she can barely make it up hills towing a load had to rop her back to 2nd gear to get up a hill last weekend towing my 4.5m boat so Im hopping the Land Rover works out better being diesel
Click to expand...
My L Series used to love towing my 4m boat, hardly knew it was there. We used to pack the car with 5 humans and the boot with a humungous Great Outdoors canvas tent that weighted a ton, hook the boat up and bung all the gear (including bikes, fridge, table, chairs, beds, toaster, kettle etc etc) into the boat - and the Freelander used to tow it over mountains no trouble.
 
Ok just filling up my oils and i cant get the IRD fill bolt out i used a 19x12 sided socket no good i tried a 19x sided socket no good it just stripped the bolt i think some useless person has gone and loctited the bloody bolt now its stripped I'm stuffed

also my drive shafts are not going back in all the way any reason why? i just can't seem to push them in but the left side is not leaking after i filled the gearbox with fluid

it has taking me 5 hours just to do the oil pan gasket and a couple hoses plus the drive shaft bolts this car is really taking it out of me i tell ya
 
You need a good 6 sided socket on the IRD fill bolt, them 12 point ones will just round off the edges - there's almost certainly no Loctite involved - just soft metal.

The drive shafts should just push in, they probably just need a bit more "help". I presume the rings/clips are on the ends?
 
Thanks Gel i could almost swear that bolt has loctite i used the rattle gun and it would not budge i kept at it thats when it stripped, i tried a 12 point socket first than a 6 point socket it just wont come loose
 
The ird filler bolt sits flat when tight, and snaps lose suddenly when yer undo it.

Eye buy 6 sided sockets only after being told to not use 12 side type on anything years ago. Eye also dislike the 12 side ring spanner so never use they end. Only use the open end.
 
Hippo said:
The ird filler bolt sits flat when tight, and snaps lose suddenly when yer undo it.

Eye buy 6 sided sockets only after being told to not use 12 side type on anything years ago. Eye also dislike the 12 side ring spanner so never use they end. Only use the open end.
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open end is worse than the ring end for ruining a nut/bolt ,a spanner has a bihex ring end so you can get the most movement in a limited space, single hex can seriously hinder get a full stroke in a limited place unless its on a ratchet ,if you need to undo a tight nut you wouldnt use a spanner youd use a 6 point socket,and a plug like ird filler you hit hiit fairly hard first with a large drift/punch and decent sized hammer
 
Impact guns and soft metal don't go together. It seems the soft metal 'damps' out the impact. I had same problem on the hp pump spindle blanking allen nut. Still not shifted it on old engine!!
 
jamesmartin said:
open end is worse than the ring end for ruining a nut/bolt ,a spanner has a bihex ring end so you can get the most movement in a limited space, single hex can seriously hinder get a full stroke in a limited place unless its on a ratchet ,if you need to undo a tight nut you wouldnt use a spanner youd use a 6 point socket,and a plug like ird filler you hit hiit fairly hard first with a large drift/punch and decent sized hammer
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If a nut is tight i would never use an open ended spanner as there's not enough leverage.

After some years of buying cheaper tools eye bought a more eggspensive ratchet. Too my surprise it's got far more clicks to the complete turn, which helps to undo nuts more easily int restricted areas. I liked it so much i bought a second as a backup. It's small with an eggstendable handle.
 
Hippo said:
If a nut is tight i would never use an open ended spanner as there's not enough leverage.

After some years of buying cheaper tools eye bought a more eggspensive ratchet. Too my surprise it's got far more clicks to the complete turn, which helps to undo nuts more easily int restricted areas. I liked it so much i bought a second as a backup. It's small with an eggstendable handle.
Click to expand...
which is why a spanner has a bihex ring end, the open ended is for nuts you cant fit a ring or socket over ,like an adjusting nut on a rod or locking nut for a freelander track rod end
 
Guys this bolt is sone up incredibly tight the rattle gun didnt strip it strait away probably took 45 seconds of pounding before it stripped
I'm going to heat the bolt before i use the irwin bolt grip
 
Eye used a hammer and chisel to get mine oft in the end. Never do them up too tight. ;)
 
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