thermostat or temp sensor

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Linford

Member
Posts
24
Location
Sheffield
As per title guys, in you're experience with these engines what you reckon....

The temp needle barely moves (rises about 1cm up from cold) then stays there. Tried the heaters, there not blowing cold but barely warm. Hoping it's just the temp sensor as I've red that the thermostat is a pain to do so guessing I'll be hammerd with labour charge.
 
Hi Linford.
I presume you have a TD4 is it auto or manual, if so it will be the thermostat opening to early, which is a common problem with the M47 therefore you can either have another original fitted which is a nightmare to do and about 3 hours + personally if I was to go down that route I would also change the water pump at the same time, as sometime in the future it may leak.

The other method is fit the in line thermostat in the top hose from the head takes about 40 minutes and works great, the Auto is a little harder to do but again worth it in the end, the engine will warm up quicker get to temperature quicker therefore help with the MPG, & you should get nice hot air for the heaters.
 
Cheers lads. Yes it's a manual td4.

Do you reckon an indie will have the know how if I told them to change it for them renny 5 or are they going to look at me gone out
 
Do you reckon an indie will have the know how if I told them to change it for them renny 5 or are they going to look at me gone out

They might look at you funny, unless they've done the R5 mod before.
However it's very easy to do yourself, especially on the manual version.
 
I've got it booked in on sat for them to have a look. So see how funny they look at me when I ask them to replace it with the r5
 
You don't replace the current stat, you add a second stat to a hose at the front of the engine.
Very easy to do.
 
Well i dropped it off this morning... Explained to them aboutadding a r5 thermostat. They wouldnt do something like due to liability reasons etc etc. They had a look on there database showing labour time for completion of a freelander stat change. 6 hour labour.

Im not paying £300+ so im probably going to be forced to sell it
 
Well i dropped it off this morning... Explained to them aboutadding a r5 thermostat. They wouldnt do something like due to liability reasons etc etc. They had a look on there database showing labour time for completion of a freelander stat change. 6 hour labour.

Im not paying £300+ so im probably going to be forced to sell it

I have a top hose with the gates stat already inserted into the hose, you would only have to remove the old hose and replace it is an easy job takes about 30 minutes, 40 minutes if you had to insert the stat into the hose, if you are interested drop me a PM, the garage just want to make money out of you, what liability if you supplied the part all they have to do if fit it ? I am sure you would be able to tackle the job your self in fitting the inline top hose stat.
 
Sell it for an easy DIY job.:confused:

As embarrassing as it is, I'm useless with cars. I got the landy as a toy for the weekends and maybe winter. Due to my naff car skill / knowledge I rely on garages. And apart from maintenance / servicing etc I don't wanna be spending decent amount on repairs.

If luck be have it someone was close to me on here and could do i wouldn't mind cash for there time.

The said after looking at it that it is the thermostat, it's leaking apparently
 
Linford
Below are photo's of the inline stat, but if you are sure that your original sat is leaking then you have no choice but to change it, if it is/was leaking you would have also noticed that your coolant in the tank would be low, you will most certainly have been topping it up? that's for sure.as you can see below is a case of filing through the stainless steel original band, let the coolant out you only lose about 500ml remove the spring clip at the other end of the hose, then remove hose fit the inline stat and re-instate the hose to the car, use a new jubilee clip where the steel band had been top up the coolant, run engine for about 15 minutes with the coolant cap lose if the coolant rises then screw down the cap, let engine continue to run and what the temp needle rise on the dash the stat should open at about 89-92
 

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If the old one is leaking, that's a different proposition, I'm afraid. You should be able to see it if you peer down into the small gap between the left hand end of the engine (as you look under the bonnet) and the inner wing. 6 hours might be the "book" time, but there are various shortcuts that an experienced independent Landrover specialist would know. It's worth asking around to see if anyone can recommend one in your area.
 
Thanks very much for you're replys. And thanks a bunch Steve for you're help so far.

I called on my dinner break and picked her up today as I didn't have time to collect it Saturday. They said the thermostat is leaking and has been for a while with the looks of it as there is a rust patch near where it's leaking... however I swear the coolant hasn't dropped (only owned it a week) and when I got back from work I checked it once it was cold and it was bang on the max line. (Don't know if they slightly topped it up)

I just came across this on ebay... has anyone came across this before and what are you're thoughts. This is the item number ..... 372650205651
 
Thanks very much for you're replys. And thanks a bunch Steve for you're help so far.

I called on my dinner break and picked her up today as I didn't have time to collect it Saturday. They said the thermostat is leaking and has been for a while with the looks of it as there is a rust patch near where it's leaking... however I swear the coolant hasn't dropped (only owned it a week) and when I got back from work I checked it once it was cold and it was bang on the max line. (Don't know if they slightly topped it up)

I just came across this on ebay... has anyone came across this before and what are you're thoughts. This is the item number ..... 372650205651

Hi Linford.
Yes fitted a few of those to the R40 MGZT they are a good piece of kit, but they only do the same job as the stat inside the top hose, you are just paying 10 times the amount for it.
 

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Well a big thank you to arctic. Job done today fitting the top hose with the inline stat. Again all thanks to arctic.

Lost all the coolant in the tank and took a while moving things out of the way to get access but it's sorted and she gets up to temp and the heaters are warm.

Thanks very much mate. And cheers to everyone's input
 
Well a big thank you to arctic. Job done today fitting the top hose with the inline stat. Again all thanks to arctic.

Lost all the coolant in the tank and took a while moving things out of the way to get access but it's sorted and she gets up to temp and the heaters are warm.

Thanks very much mate. And cheers to everyone's input

Hi James.
Great to hear you got it sorted hopefully it was not to much of a pain, ;) the windows should clear better now in this sort of weather as well as keeping you warm :) i presume you moved the egr & air intake to get to it, on the R40 you only have to remove the air intake and you can get a file in comfortable, the best way of all though is if the manifold is removed but that is a lot more work, so would be better to combine cleaning the manifold EGR & MAP sensor out at the same time as fitting the inline stat, but as you say job done.
 
Hi James.
Great to hear you got it sorted hopefully it was not to much of a pain, ;) the windows should clear better now in this sort of weather as well as keeping you warm :) i presume you moved the egr & air intake to get to it, on the R40 you only have to remove the air intake and you can get a file in comfortable, the best way of all though is if the manifold is removed but that is a lot more work, so would be better to combine cleaning the manifold EGR & MAP sensor out at the same time as fitting the inline stat, but as you say job done.

Yeah I had to remove the air intake and the egr. I unbolted the manifold to lift slightly out of the way. Reason being is I used a angle grinder to get the metal band off lol.
 
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