thermostat mod on td4 2004
- Thread starter nuggs77
- Start date
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There's a different set of pipes between the manual and auto.
Yours is the auto box, so the pipe goes in the upper branch off the T piece. This upper pipe goes to the rad top. The sensor bulb needs to at the T piece side.
Be warned. Fitting the remote stat in the upper pipe is hard work.
Here's mine. It's the fat part of the hose, ringed in red.
For the small amount of coolant you lost doing the mod. The system will self bleed over the next few hundred miles. Just keep the coolant at the max mark.
fastasulike72
Member
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- Walsall
Hi nodge when you did this stat mod did you get any over heating at all as done the mod on my td4 Auto and found my motor over heating and misfiring,took it back out which was very anouying as how much effort to get it in lol and all went back to normal,was thinking of trying again as it'll soon get going cold again,regards
No. It runs at a constant 90°C, regardless of what the weather is doing. The cooling fans never come on, except in very slow traffic, in very hot weather. I run with the AC on constantly, so the fans running slow for AC is generally all that's needed to keep it at normal running temperature.
Are you sure you put the thermostat in the correct way round?
fastasulike72
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Thanks for getting back to me nodge,Yes mate definitely put in the right way and what a bugger to get in it was,might order another stat and give it another bash as destroyed the old one trying to pull it out
Maybe the thermostat you first fitted was faulty and not opening?
fastasulike72
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- Walsall
The thermostat I put in was a gates one and might have been slightly damaged when putting it in,but today fitted the proper one,took me six hours in total and what a pig of a job but all done Now and origina,thanks to the info on this site and write a thank you up for the info and experiences people put on here,invaluable
Dinger110
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- North wales
Hi guys, love my Landrovers have a 1986 110 csw and a 2005 td4 freelander, enjoy (in the main) doing most of my maintenance and repairs, currently attempting the td4 thermostat
Followed the guidance a lot of you have given (thank you) can’t get to some of the E8 torx with my 3/8 drive ratchet except 1 which seems reluctant to yield and I’m concerned the delicate areas of the torx bolt are going chocolate!! I have a E8 spanner landing tomorrow to hopefully progress things anyone had the same issue and any further advice would be whole heartedly appreciated.
Followed the guidance a lot of you have given (thank you) can’t get to some of the E8 torx with my 3/8 drive ratchet except 1 which seems reluctant to yield and I’m concerned the delicate areas of the torx bolt are going chocolate!! I have a E8 spanner landing tomorrow to hopefully progress things anyone had the same issue and any further advice would be whole heartedly appreciated.
fastasulike72
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Hi mate I did mine late last year and there’s a good write up on here,if you search for
Td4 Thermostat Replacement - The Way To Do It!
go to page 1 and follow,I did this step by step and was successful,but still a pig of a job tho lol
Td4 Thermostat Replacement - The Way To Do It!
go to page 1 and follow,I did this step by step and was successful,but still a pig of a job tho lol
Dinger110
Member
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- 17
- Location
- North wales
Dinger110
Member
- Posts
- 17
- Location
- North wales
Well what a job that was finally sorted!
The torx bolt visible through the wing seized in solid ! Tried every method know to man to release so in the end with great difficulty (stick set)welded the E8 torx spanner to it and it loosened took lots of force and time but it slowly came away (copper slip please).
Refitting new thermostat at first seemed like an impossible task, defo type that coolant pipe back with heavy duty tie wraps, don’t quite know what I did if I’m honest after attempting various positions to get thermostat in but figured it came so it’s gotta go back in and it did
I found a 1/4 inch socket 8 sided type went over the torx bolts better for screwing back into the block then the E8 to tighten up .
Did both belts whilst I was there too , a/c is easy , auxiliary one a bit more challenging ! Top tip -I thought I’d put it on all ok but then noticed auxiliary belt was not sat in the grooves in places so took a spanner to crank end bolt and turned by hand till all sitting nice, so check.
Car now running well and temperature gauge sits in the middle Pig of a job but very satisfied.
The torx bolt visible through the wing seized in solid ! Tried every method know to man to release so in the end with great difficulty (stick set)welded the E8 torx spanner to it and it loosened took lots of force and time but it slowly came away (copper slip please).
Refitting new thermostat at first seemed like an impossible task, defo type that coolant pipe back with heavy duty tie wraps, don’t quite know what I did if I’m honest after attempting various positions to get thermostat in but figured it came so it’s gotta go back in and it did
I found a 1/4 inch socket 8 sided type went over the torx bolts better for screwing back into the block then the E8 to tighten up .
Did both belts whilst I was there too , a/c is easy , auxiliary one a bit more challenging ! Top tip -I thought I’d put it on all ok but then noticed auxiliary belt was not sat in the grooves in places so took a spanner to crank end bolt and turned by hand till all sitting nice, so check.
Car now running well and temperature gauge sits in the middle Pig of a job but very satisfied.
Well done for doing it correctly.
However it's this reason why most people fit the R4-5 thermostat in the top hose. This is especially true as the correct thermostat only lasts a couple of years, before it fails again.
tyrefitter
Active Member
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- stoke-on-trent
I’ve thought many a time about doing this mod as normally mine sits at quarter way mark but if it’s very warm or I’m towing it sits at half way so I’m not sure if I’d have any overheating problems if I do it any thoughts on this much appreciated
No you won't have overheating issues.
did top hose stat mod on my 53 plate HSE auto in early Feb bit of a struggle but well worth it the result temp sits right in the middle nice and warm compared to how it was before,engine and box seem a lot smoother or maybe I imagine that.moral of story well worth doing.
The box will be smoother, once the box is running hotter.
Arctic2
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This can happen sometimes but all you need to do is run the car and open the heater on full until it stops and all will be normal again.
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