The effects of towing....

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
As already said, it's more to do with the way it's driven than what it has or hasn't towed. If I'm towing anything remotely heavy I'll always pull away in 1st low range and then move back to high range after I'm moving. This helps to protect the drivetrain components. I can't think of a time when I've ever had to slip my clutch when pulling away and that includes towing trucks.
 
Think I posted for you a link with things to look out for

I have a 9 page document with much more detail which might help you really understadn what to look out for (but no substitute for taking someone knowledgable with you) but it's too large to attach here

If you want to pm me with an email address, I'll email it back to you this evening
 
When buying 2nd hand cars, I put as much emphasis on the guy who's selling it, as I do the car itself. I've walked away from many a good car just because I didn't like the seller, or thought he was an arse. I have to trust the seller before handing over my hard earnt. You'll know the right vehicle/seller when you see them.
 
ya dont really get cut and shut defenders. They just unbolt so nothing needs cutting:doh:
It sounds like you want a chelsea tractor, so get it from chelsea.(or local equivelent). Buy a landy from a farmer it'll be worked.Chanced are it wont be abused cos its a tool of the trade but it will have worked.Chelsea tractors have done the school run and maybe mounted a curb. Hopefully tarquin has had "his man" service it regular but possibly not. Also hope tarquin isnt rich enough to own a big **** off sun seeker and dragged it from chesire to Cowes every weekedn in the summer. But that sed chelsea tractor is the way to go.
 
What I did was buy a 90 from a farmer for £500 quid without seeing it first. It's been a great truck ever since. The engine is bullet proof (although the 2.5 naturally asphyxiated is a _bit_ slow). I love it, and don't regret it for a minute. The low price was helped by the fact that the guy advertising it simply put "land rover, starts and drives" in the advert. LOL!
 
Ive been looking for decent Defender for a good while now and online its full of the same people selling the same kind of stuff... cleaned, refurbed and over priced....

On a previous post I highlighted my suspicion about milage and was informed not to worry about high milage as such and the reasons why...

However... I would like to ask those who know alot more than me what the effects of towing have on a Defender... Lets assume I have overcome my fear of purchasing a Defender with such high milage... I would like to know how much of an impact does towing have on the Defender 90.

If I was to purchase a TDi 90, one owner from new, no towing ever, never used in extreme off road, full service history and reguarly serviced we could say that this example was 100% perfect...

Compared to say a TDi 90, one owner from new, towing cows everyday 100's of miles, full service history, regularly serviced... how perfect would this example be??

Its obvously not 100% perfect compared to the first example so is it only half as good?? no effect at all ??? Im intruiged to what people will answer.

Thanks everyone.
Hi mate.

But I don't see why this is such an issue - the answer is the same as before.


Judge each car/Land Rover on it's own merits - condition is key!!


There really is no "this will be good because of" and "this will be bad because of..."

There are way too many variables to consider.

Again it's fully feasible that a car having done no towing will be a wreck and one that's done loads will be fine.

It depends on:

-what they've towed
-how and where (e.g. The Fens is rather different to the Peaks or Lakes)
-How they were driven when towing
-how they've been maintained


Logically pulling 3 tonnes regularly will mean more stress on the drive train and engine. How much of an adverse affect this might have is highly debatable though. Which then swings it back round to condition.

A tow vehicle that's recently had a new clutch, refurb gearbox and has an engine that runs as sweet as anything is likely a better bet then a non tow vehicle with a scrunchy 3rd and a tired motor.



----- But the thing is. This is the same advice for ANY car really. :)
 
i gather that towing will mean your engine is worked hard, and is lean and fit with no glazing of the bores, whereas one that's been used for the 3 mile school run every morning may have an engine that's in far worse shape!
 
mine was a tow vehicle - towed wood to building sites

how ever it came with a huge wedge of reciepts , mechanics bills and old mots prooving milage , and servicing.

this paper trail coupled with a decent landy attached would make me happier than a mint looking landy with no paperwork
 
Back
Top