- Posts
- 6,243
- Location
- North Manchester
Maybe. Mines a 2005 UK version so different to yours anyway.
Ah well got to keep the boss happyThats what she wanted.....
So I had the top glove box out as I need that to remove the top dash pad and all I saw there was the CD changer, the fuse panel is behind the lower..
So I had the top glove box out as I need that to remove the top dash pad and all I saw there was the CD changer, the fuse panel is behind the lower..
Having a hard time orientating that image to my car but will look again later
The more I look at that image it does look it is below the fuse panel, The first image looks like the fuses in the top left, will take a look tomorrow.The image is from the 2007 - 2010 manual but it is an LR so no guarantee's
Hello Pete J-L. I'm coming late to the party but if you're still working on this problem I may be able to help.This is what I found, This is the new # for VUX500590
Hello Pete J-L. I'm coming late to the party but if you're still working on this problem I may be able to help.
I think you were on the right track when you remarked that the radio, etc is not receiving power. Yes, water in the gubbins in the back can cause problems, such as arcing when wet, which is usually accompanied by very loud banging through the systems if the amp is affected. But that is not your problem. Also, someone remarked that if there is a problem with damaged or dirty connections in the MOST FO cables(?) it would affect the audio, not the power. You appear to have a power problem and it's not limited to the radio console so somewhere in the center stack you have an interruption of 12V supply, and it may not be a fuse. It's not a MOST continuity problem. It may just be a bad ground or a damaged/disconnected connector.
I experienced all the different problems with water in the back, bad bluetooth box breaking the MOST chain and blown fuses at times. If there are no fuses blown start checking the physical connections in and around the center console. I had an intermittent loss of power like yours. It would cut off for days or just minutes. Sometimes it didn't power up when I started the car and other times it would but then go away, or not, for minutes or days. I eventually discovered that I was causing the problem.
I use the 'sport' gear setting at times and then also use the manual gear selection when adjusting my speed in city traffic. I noticed that when I sometimes 'slapped' the shifter sideways the console 'deck(?)' that the shifter comes up though would pop loose. Sometimes just an eighth of an inch. At other times perhaps closer to half an inch. It probably depended on how hard I wacked the shifter sideways. That shifter panel only snaps down with four metal spring clips. I'd taken it out a couple of time to replace a broken 'descent control' knob I inherited from a PO. I'd also had a problem with the ignition switch lockout when the gear position detent was not engaged. The little lever under the panel had become sticky from the PO spilling their latte down the console and I had to poke my finger under the deck to pop it down to start the car. What I discovered is that if that 'deck' was popped up I could loose power to the console. No logo, no backup camera, no radio, etc., etc. Once I made sure the console deck panel was properly down and secured all my console power issues went away.
I don't know if some shift interlock or ignition circuit contact was shorting or perhaps some connector wasn't connecting fully when the shift panel was sticking up. All I know is that after I set the panel correctly in place I have not had any recurrences of losing power to the radio, screen, diagnostics, etc.
It's worth a look. The notorious water related issues in the back may be 'red herrings' in this case. BTW, I solved the wet electronics problem with the cheap LR 'plastic mac' kit over the gubbins and some additional plastic and duct tape to keep the water off the gear, ensuring adequate air flow to keep the amp and decks cool. I'm pretty sure the water comes from the sun roof drains allowing water on top of the headliner that then pours down the back when the vehicle accelerates. I've actually heard it rushing back after a night of heavy rain when I first drive away in the morning. If I leave the car parked unused after heavy rain it leaks down the B pillar, soaking the front seat belts and the rear seat foot wells. My next task is to remove the headliner so I can get at the rear sunroof drains to unplug them and make sure the flexible drain pipes are actually in place and connected securely.
Good luck with your 12V power problem. I hope this helps.
Welcome To LandyZone, the Land Rover Forums!
Here at LandyZone we have plenty of very knowledgable members so if you have any questions about your Land Rover or just want to connect with other Landy owners, you're in the right place.
Registering is free and easy just click here, we hope to see you on the forums soon!