The Dreaded L322 stereo issues

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So, this is where I'm up to..... I had bought a used head unit early off and was waiting for it as I went through the early threads, stripped out most of the rear area and most of my dash in order to remove the head unit.
I did try the new unit but no change, used the CAN bypass loop in various locations but still nothing. I checked all the wiring plugs for broken pins/ corrosion and found no damage and slight corrosion which I cleaned
I bought a used Amp and tonight I installed and tried it out.... Still Nothing, verified power to amp all good, Even pulled every fuse and replaced it just in case.
I am at a loss..
So just to clarify
No power light on head unit
No display/logo
CD changer in glovebox will eject
CD in nav will not eject

Cannot find IHU (As described by "backinblack" in earlier thread) This is a 2008 model so might not have one..??


In the meantime, the wife 's Evoque starter motor decided to pack up at 141000kms (87600mls) thanks to the wonderful start/stop function which in Canada is a dealer only part at present so $600 +$250 core charge :(
 
Cannot find IHU

Have you looked behind the glovebox?


upload_2022-12-3_13-5-48.png
 
So I had the top glove box out as I need that to remove the top dash pad and all I saw there was the CD changer, the fuse panel is behind the lower..
Having a hard time orientating that image to my car but will look again later

The image is from the 2007 - 2010 manual but it is an LR so no guarantee's
 
So managed to get to it today and removed the lower glovebox... Bingo there it is.. and after removal I can see that it does not look the best.... Also it looks like it has been changed before and they even change the part #
My next question is if I replace this part does it need to be reprogrammed? o_Oo_O
 
This is what I found, This is the new # for VUX500590
 

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This is what I found, This is the new # for VUX500590
Hello Pete J-L. I'm coming late to the party but if you're still working on this problem I may be able to help.

I think you were on the right track when you remarked that the radio, etc is not receiving power. Yes, water in the gubbins in the back can cause problems, such as arcing when wet, which is usually accompanied by very loud banging through the systems if the amp is affected. But that is not your problem. Also, someone remarked that if there is a problem with damaged or dirty connections in the MOST FO cables(?) it would affect the audio, not the power. You appear to have a power problem and it's not limited to the radio console so somewhere in the center stack you have an interruption of 12V supply, and it may not be a fuse. It's not a MOST continuity problem. It may just be a bad ground or a damaged/disconnected connector.

I experienced all the different problems with water in the back, bad bluetooth box breaking the MOST chain and blown fuses at times. If there are no fuses blown start checking the physical connections in and around the center console. I had an intermittent loss of power like yours. It would cut off for days or just minutes. Sometimes it didn't power up when I started the car and other times it would but then go away, or not, for minutes or days. I eventually discovered that I was causing the problem.

I use the 'sport' gear setting at times and then also use the manual gear selection when adjusting my speed in city traffic. I noticed that when I sometimes 'slapped' the shifter sideways the console 'deck(?)' that the shifter comes up though would pop loose. Sometimes just an eighth of an inch. At other times perhaps closer to half an inch. It probably depended on how hard I wacked the shifter sideways. That shifter panel only snaps down with four metal spring clips. I'd taken it out a couple of time to replace a broken 'descent control' knob I inherited from a PO. I'd also had a problem with the ignition switch lockout when the gear position detent was not engaged. The little lever under the panel had become sticky from the PO spilling their latte down the console and I had to poke my finger under the deck to pop it down to start the car. What I discovered is that if that 'deck' was popped up I could loose power to the console. No logo, no backup camera, no radio, etc., etc. Once I made sure the console deck panel was properly down and secured all my console power issues went away.

I don't know if some shift interlock or ignition circuit contact was shorting or perhaps some connector wasn't connecting fully when the shift panel was sticking up. All I know is that after I set the panel correctly in place I have not had any recurrences of losing power to the radio, screen, diagnostics, etc.

It's worth a look. The notorious water related issues in the back may be 'red herrings' in this case. BTW, I solved the wet electronics problem with the cheap LR 'plastic mac' kit over the gubbins and some additional plastic and duct tape to keep the water off the gear, ensuring adequate air flow to keep the amp and decks cool. I'm pretty sure the water comes from the sun roof drains allowing water on top of the headliner that then pours down the back when the vehicle accelerates. I've actually heard it rushing back after a night of heavy rain when I first drive away in the morning. If I leave the car parked unused after heavy rain it leaks down the B pillar, soaking the front seat belts and the rear seat foot wells. My next task is to remove the headliner so I can get at the rear sunroof drains to unplug them and make sure the flexible drain pipes are actually in place and connected securely.

Good luck with your 12V power problem. I hope this helps.
 
Hello Pete J-L. I'm coming late to the party but if you're still working on this problem I may be able to help.

I think you were on the right track when you remarked that the radio, etc is not receiving power. Yes, water in the gubbins in the back can cause problems, such as arcing when wet, which is usually accompanied by very loud banging through the systems if the amp is affected. But that is not your problem. Also, someone remarked that if there is a problem with damaged or dirty connections in the MOST FO cables(?) it would affect the audio, not the power. You appear to have a power problem and it's not limited to the radio console so somewhere in the center stack you have an interruption of 12V supply, and it may not be a fuse. It's not a MOST continuity problem. It may just be a bad ground or a damaged/disconnected connector.

I experienced all the different problems with water in the back, bad bluetooth box breaking the MOST chain and blown fuses at times. If there are no fuses blown start checking the physical connections in and around the center console. I had an intermittent loss of power like yours. It would cut off for days or just minutes. Sometimes it didn't power up when I started the car and other times it would but then go away, or not, for minutes or days. I eventually discovered that I was causing the problem.

I use the 'sport' gear setting at times and then also use the manual gear selection when adjusting my speed in city traffic. I noticed that when I sometimes 'slapped' the shifter sideways the console 'deck(?)' that the shifter comes up though would pop loose. Sometimes just an eighth of an inch. At other times perhaps closer to half an inch. It probably depended on how hard I wacked the shifter sideways. That shifter panel only snaps down with four metal spring clips. I'd taken it out a couple of time to replace a broken 'descent control' knob I inherited from a PO. I'd also had a problem with the ignition switch lockout when the gear position detent was not engaged. The little lever under the panel had become sticky from the PO spilling their latte down the console and I had to poke my finger under the deck to pop it down to start the car. What I discovered is that if that 'deck' was popped up I could loose power to the console. No logo, no backup camera, no radio, etc., etc. Once I made sure the console deck panel was properly down and secured all my console power issues went away.

I don't know if some shift interlock or ignition circuit contact was shorting or perhaps some connector wasn't connecting fully when the shift panel was sticking up. All I know is that after I set the panel correctly in place I have not had any recurrences of losing power to the radio, screen, diagnostics, etc.

It's worth a look. The notorious water related issues in the back may be 'red herrings' in this case. BTW, I solved the wet electronics problem with the cheap LR 'plastic mac' kit over the gubbins and some additional plastic and duct tape to keep the water off the gear, ensuring adequate air flow to keep the amp and decks cool. I'm pretty sure the water comes from the sun roof drains allowing water on top of the headliner that then pours down the back when the vehicle accelerates. I've actually heard it rushing back after a night of heavy rain when I first drive away in the morning. If I leave the car parked unused after heavy rain it leaks down the B pillar, soaking the front seat belts and the rear seat foot wells. My next task is to remove the headliner so I can get at the rear sunroof drains to unplug them and make sure the flexible drain pipes are actually in place and connected securely.

Good luck with your 12V power problem. I hope this helps.

Wow.. took some reading but it all make perfect sense, I too am a little "sport mode" happy with my SC and never really associated the tell tail issues that you described, Some times it would not power up or lines across the screen and now nothing at all
Not going to lie i have just been throwing money at it and bought a new(used) screen, logic amp and just received the IHU which i will be trying first but will also be looking at the shifter consul area as you have described
 
FIXED.....!!!!!!!
So firstly I would like to say a big thank you to all for the help that I received, For anyone reading this thread in future there is a lot of great advice on here...
What was the issue? mine turned out to be the IHU which is located under the main glove box, I will attach pics to aid anyone looking for theirs's. Also i have attached pictures of the CAN loop with part # from Amazon
I did not need to do any reprograming or anything, this was just a straight swap
 

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