The continuing saga

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Richarddiscoverytwo

Richarddiscoverytwo

Member
Posts
97
Ok, I am really getting desperate now...and I dont know what to try next.

This is what I have done so far.

First: my cylinder head had a cracked injector housing so I got it repaired. Have now reassembled it but have done some other stuff at the same time including; fitting new fuel pressure regulator and removing and blanking off the EGR valve (genuine seals and washers fitted to injectors) and replaced the injector harness.

Since doing this work it starts with difficulty, runs for a minute or so then stops. I have rechecked the timing - the coloured links on the timing chain align with the mark on sprockets. Timing pin fits in top and also in the bottom. Now engine kicks and wont start.

Batt is now on charge whilst I pull out whats left of my hair.
 
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do you mean "kicks" or "clicks"?...if it clicks and doesnt crank you need this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DEFENDER-...DIESEL-STARTER-MOTOR-REPAIR-KIT-/251277305498

some times if it's worn the starter could give you problems with engine running/missfire too cos it generates sparks and alters the electromagnetic field which disturbes the crank sensor... and for your problem this could be an issue...i mean the crank sensor signal...so investigate in this area too, check the sensor's plug and wiring, eventualy put a new sensor(it's not wasted money even if the old one is good cos it's good to have a spare on you all the time as if it fails in the middle of nowhere you're f***ed)...try to start it without the starter pulled by other car or something

didnt you put a tester on this car since you've rebuilt things...maybe you've got some fault codes to point you in the right direction
 
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Its definitely a kick, not a click.
No I haven't put a tester on it - I dont have one, but think I may need to buy one. Any ideas on best one to buy?

sierrafery said:
do you mean "kicks" or "clicks"?...if it clicks and doesnt crank you need this DEFENDER & DISCOVERY SERIES 2 1998 on TD5 2.5 DIESEL STARTER MOTOR REPAIR KIT | eBay

some times if it's worn the starter could give you problems with engine running/missfire too cos it generates sparks and alters the electromagnetic field which disturbes the crank sensor... and for your problem this could be an issue...i mean the crank sensor signal...so investigate in this area too, check the sensor's plug and wiring, eventualy put a new sensor(it's not wasted money even if the old one is good cos it's good to have a spare on you all the time as if it fails in the middle of nowhere you're f***ed)...try to start it without the starter pulled by other car or something

didnt you put a tester on this car since you've rebuilt things...maybe you've got some fault codes to point you in the right direction
Click to expand...
 
nanocom ...or hawkeye which is good and handheld(a bit cheaper too) but has some lacks compared to nanocom... e'g used key programming, height calibration, unable to print out live data...but this one is made by omitec with T4 original protocols and nanocom is a well working clone;)
 
Richarddiscoverytwo said:
Ok, I am really getting desperate now...and I dont know what to try next.

This is what I have done so far.

First: my cylinder head had a cracked injector housing so I got it repaired. Have now reassembled it but have done some other stuff at the same time including; fitting new fuel pressure regulator and removing and blanking off the EGR valve (genuine seals and washers fitted to injectors) and replaced the injector harness.

Since doing this work it starts with difficulty, runs for a minute or so then stops. I have rechecked the timing - the coloured links on the timing chain align with the mark on sprockets. Timing pin fits in top and also in the bottom. Now engine kicks and wont start.

Batt is now on charge whilst I pull out what's left of my hair.
Click to expand...

Once your battery is fully re-charged, perhaps you could test to see if the in-tank fuel is operating, as the behaviour you describe is classic of little or no fuel delivery.

Turn the ignition to pos II and listen by rear drivers side wheelarch - can you hear the pump turning? Does it sound a bit strangled? If yes to both it would be useful to remove the pump from the tank and clean the plastic gauze filter at it's base.

Good luck

Dave
 
Thanks thats very useful. :)
sierrafery said:
nanocom ...or hawkeye which is good and handheld(a bit cheaper too) but has some lacks compared to nanocom... e'g used key programming, height calibration, unable to print out live data...but this one is made by omitec with T4 original protocols and nanocom is a well working clone;)
Click to expand...
 
Thank you, I have listened and can hear the pump...it does a screaming noise but then eventually does go quiet. Every time I turn it on it does the same thing. I will clean the plastic gauze filter as suggested.

thebiglad said:
Once your battery is fully re-charged, perhaps you could test to see if the in-tank fuel is operating, as the behaviour you describe is classic of little or no fuel delivery.

Turn the ignition to pos II and listen by rear drivers side wheelarch - can you hear the pump turning? Does it sound a bit strangled? If yes to both it would be useful to remove the pump from the tank and clean the plastic gauze filter at it's base.

Good luck

Dave
Click to expand...
 
Hi there,

Screaming pump could just be pump on way out but follow Dave's tip first!

Good luck,
Martin
 
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