alexdon
Active Member
- Posts
- 330
- Location
- Hampshire - Havant aclew
P gasket?
Temp guage high, blowing cold air
- Thread starter rlj86
- Start date
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P gasket?
alexdon
Active Member
- Posts
- 330
- Location
- Hampshire - Havant aclew
Sorry I can't help you on that, I'm a petrol man. I just know that is where the P gasket is on a TDi. Hopefully somebody else will be along to put you right.
jonathanp
Active Member
- Posts
- 183
- Location
- Barnard Castle, County Durham
Previous posts indicate you have also changed the Water pump as well , assuming all the parts you changed are still OK and were not faulty when changed there is not much left .
Is there anything in front of the radiator that blocks or reduces air flow through it ?
There is also a thermostat in the bracket thing that holds the oil filter this opens and alows engine oil to flow to the oil cooler in the radiator. This should open before the water thermostat and will make a difference to the the engine block temperature if it is slow / late or does not open at all . The other things are air locks caused by very small water leaks through joints etc .
Regards Jonathan
Is there anything in front of the radiator that blocks or reduces air flow through it ?
There is also a thermostat in the bracket thing that holds the oil filter this opens and alows engine oil to flow to the oil cooler in the radiator. This should open before the water thermostat and will make a difference to the the engine block temperature if it is slow / late or does not open at all . The other things are air locks caused by very small water leaks through joints etc .
Regards Jonathan
rlj86
New Member
- Posts
- 116
Yes, forgot about water pump being done too! Rad, viscous coupling and p gasket were only changed on Friday afternoon, should the airlock happen so quickly? Could the head have gone again, realised rad had gone after head was done due to still overheating? If so, is there any way of of having it tested without stripping it down? No obvious sign, oil in water, water in oil, water in exhaust etc. Would new hoses be worth trying invade of pin prick holes leaking under pressure?
jonathanp
Active Member
- Posts
- 183
- Location
- Barnard Castle, County Durham
Well it is possible ? A garage can pressure test the cooling system , ie fit a guage to the header tank and pump a little air in it and see how much it drops in presure over a period of time which will confirm any leaks or a possible head gasket problem and they should do a sniff test using a special indicator dye in a glass tube on the coolant again via the header tank which is the best test to see if any exhaust gasses are present which will confirm if there is a head gasket problem if it fails.
Check that the Thermostat is actually working , by the pan of hot water method . Genuine ones are made by Waxstat . Make sure the heater controls are set to hot when topping up the coolant and via the radiator and thermostat housing and squeeze the radiator hoses to help circulate the coolant and move any entrapped air while topping up . The system should self bleed when the engine is running that is what that little round disk/valve is for that is connected to three pieces of pipe that is at the top of the cam belt housing via the thermostat housing and the header tank and the top of the radiator. This could posibly need changing as well . Other new hoses and Jubilee clips are a possible next to change but best to check for damage and tighten everything and then go for a sniff test and a prssure test . Regards Jonathan
Check that the Thermostat is actually working , by the pan of hot water method . Genuine ones are made by Waxstat . Make sure the heater controls are set to hot when topping up the coolant and via the radiator and thermostat housing and squeeze the radiator hoses to help circulate the coolant and move any entrapped air while topping up . The system should self bleed when the engine is running that is what that little round disk/valve is for that is connected to three pieces of pipe that is at the top of the cam belt housing via the thermostat housing and the header tank and the top of the radiator. This could posibly need changing as well . Other new hoses and Jubilee clips are a possible next to change but best to check for damage and tighten everything and then go for a sniff test and a prssure test . Regards Jonathan
tony74747
Member
- Posts
- 26
- Location
- washington tyne and wear
air lock. drain system an refill as per manual
rlj86
New Member
- Posts
- 116
Right guys. Sorry to keep bringing this thread up. Had the glass tube on and dye stayed blue so in theory head not gone. Been fine for a couple of weeks but temp started to rise again today. The difference this time is that I didn't lose warm air on the cab like before and when I turned to heater on full and to the end of the hot dial, the temp gauge instantly started to drop and settled back in the middle and stayed there. So what's different this time?
alex8882
Well-Known Member
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- 1,377
- Location
- lytham,st.annes
hi pal when you refill the coolant system where do you fill from. Best place is the bung ontop of the stat hosing as its the highest point. I normaly fill with a bit of boliing water just to make sure the stat opens. Also keep the coolant bottle cap on when filling, otherwise it will just flow in there and not into the engine and rad. You should see the air bubbling out of the stat bung as you fill. once the stat housing fills and doesn't drain anymore replace bung, and crack open the coolant bottle cap. It should fill, and you may need to drain some out. This is how i do it, and works everytime for me
