L322 TD6 minimal power after changing High Pressure Pump

Hi,

I've recently installed a new (professionally reconditioned) High Pressure Pump, put everything back together and now I don't have any power when driving, as in foot to the floor and I can barely get to 30mph. When going up hill it's almost walking pace!

I obviously think it's something I've done on part of the rebuild - but to be honest it was quite a simple job to do and not really must to go wrong.

I wondered if anyone could advise if this is a typical symptom of the HP pump not working? It starts up perfectly and idles smoothly, its just when driving. There's no error messages or smoke etc.

I did notice that the EGR bypass is leaking slightly - which (smoke coming out when revving) which I am going to fix - but would this cause such an issue?

I've bought a fuel pump pressure tester and a diagnostic tool that's coming today so will try and get a reading to confirm it's working OK - can anyone tell me where the test value is on the TD6?

The only other thing I did was pressure was the intake manifold but it was left to dry for a long time in a hot conservatory so think this is a long shot.

Any help or advice would be really appreciated as I'm pretty stuck at the minute

Cheers
Chris

Is there a manifold pressure sensor on the manifold ,to tell the pump turbo pressure ,is it connected or damaged,if there is one

As you probably know the HP pump has 3 pistons in it and I guess if one wasn't repaired properly on the rebuild it may not be providing enough fuel for higher engine rpm.
Depending on what diagnostics you have ordered I'd start with the fuel pressures as per the bottom of this from the Rave manual.
If you still have your old pump you can rebuild it yourself for around £40 and swap it out.

General
The Td6 is equipped with a high pressure common rail fuel injection system. With this fuel injection process, a high
pressure pump delivers a uniform level of pressure to the shared fuel line (the common rail) which serves all the fuel
injection valves. Pressure develops to the optimum level for smooth operation. This means that each injector nozzle
is capable of delivering fuel at spray pressures of up to 1350 bar.
The common rail system disconnects fuel injection and pressure generation functions. Fuel injection pressure is
generated independently of engine speed and fuel injection volume and is available in the "Rail" for injection to the
cylinders.
The fuel injection timing and volume are calculated in the DDE and delivered to each engine cylinder by the injectors,
each of which is actuated by energizing the appropriate solenoid valve.
The fuel system is divided into 2 sub systems:
l Low pressure system
l High pressure system.
The low pressure system features the following components:
l Fuel tank
l Advance delivery pump
l Outlet protection valves
l Auxiliary delivery pump
l Fuel filter with inlet pressure sensor
l Pressure relief valve (LP system)
l Fuel cooler.
The high pressure system features the following components:
l High pressure pump
l High pressure common rail
l Pressure control valve
l Rail pressure sensor
l Injectors.
The low pressure system pressure is approx. 1.5 bar to 5 bar and return end < 0.6 bar. The pressure in the high
pressure end is 200 bar to 1350 bar.

Thanks both for the response, I've check the plug into the manifold, unplugged it, cleaned it and put it back in - still no difference.

But I now have new symptoms! My outside temp on the dash is showing -40 deg c - it's not that cold! And also the LED alarm light under the light is constantly flashing (although my battery did die) so I'm currently charging it and will see what happens.

I've also noticed that when I turn on the ignition I can hear the pump fire up, but I'm sure that it used to take less then 1 sec with a "whooshing" sound to get the fuel up to pressure. It seems to be humming for ages now. I've checked the fuel feed and fuel is definitely reaching the pump.

Again any suggestions at all are appreciated

Cheers
Chris

Are you sure it's not the FBH you can hear running?

There are 3 pumps for fuel delivery, in tank, secondary, and HP. You need to see what pressures you have on the fuel rails. You know they are working to some degree cos it starts.
Have you replaced the fuel filter?
The FBH also has a fuel pump, a water pump, and air fan that if working will fire up below 6 degrees.

Yeah it's definitely the HP pump, although I do know they are close. I've just spoken to the mechanic at the refurb centre and he's stuck for ideas too. Suggested scanning it which I'll do later - he also suggested to look at the turbo and make sure it's opening the wastegate when the engine starts. Going to be a busy weekend

Time to admit it was a stupid mistake.

I knocked off a connector to the common rail when I took off the manifold.

Connected it all back up and it runs the best it ever has (since I've owned it).

Thanks for your help!

Cheers
Chris

Walshie1987 said:

Time to admit it was a stupid mistake.

I knocked off a connector to the common rail when I took off the manifold.

Connected it all back up and it runs the best it ever has (since I've owned it).

Thanks for your help!

Cheers
Chris

Click to expand...

Thanks for coming back with the result.

Datatek said:

Thanks for coming back with the result.

Click to expand...

No worries, it's it actually too difficult of a job, but obviously when it didn't work I instantly thought the pump was at fault - but to be honest the refurb that feather diesel services did was amazing, the pump looked as if it was new.

And now I have a brand new pressure tester and diagnostic tool that I didn't even get chance to play around with. Always good for next time it breaks though!

Cheers
Chris

Which diagnostic tool did you get? it's bound to come in handy soon enough

When I say diagnostic tool I might be exaggerating slightly (I used the amazon description) it's an AUTOFIX OM126P off amazon, it was only £50 but I've tested it and it does check the fuel system and error codes, which is what I bought it for.

It will definitely be used in future! The car always likes to keep me busy

I suspect you may need a LR specific one soon, I doubt that will read most modules as the RR is not OBDII.