TD5 with Series doors

John03 · Nov 26, 2016

Oldseadog said:
I got mine from SP http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-90-110-SERIES-TYPE-2-PIECE-FRONT-DOOR-TOPS-AND-BOTTOMS-KIT-/252161943846?hash=item3ab605e926:g:ggMAAOSw2XFUblH9
And they fitted my 110 perfectly! Mine were a fair bit cheaper as I didn't need the glass, the handles or the strikers

yup thats the kit I got, I'm guessing that your landy already had series type doors due to not requiring the glass handles or strikers so no wonder they fitted like a glove.

Oldseadog · Nov 26, 2016

The bits came off spare Series doors, as the Defender doors were knackered and totally u/s, so it made sense to use up what I already had.

John03 · Nov 26, 2016

Oldseadog said:
The bits came off spare Series doors, as the Defender doors were knackered and totally u/s, so it made sense to use up what I already had.

well I only have the passenger door on so far and it aint fitting like no bleeding glove, until I figure out whats going wrong or find someone local that knows I'm not even gonna try fitting the drivers side door

John03 · Nov 27, 2016

Drivers door now fitted, have to really slam it to get it to lock but works better than the passenger door. New doors and new seals so made get better with use.

John03 · Nov 29, 2016

Oldseadog said:
The bits came off spare Series doors, as the Defender doors were knackered and totally u/s, so it made sense to use up what I already had.

Can you tell me if you have anything between the door handle and the door. I have the door catch as far forward as I can without cutting the rubber away on the door seals. I have washers in-between the door handle and the door but I'm at the max the bolts

The door shuts and locks if you really slam it but wont open without some great force or from the inside with the aid of a screwdriver.

Oldseadog · Nov 30, 2016

Those spreader plates are on the outside, in the 'handle well', and clamp the lock/handle assembly to the inside of the door.
When the door is shut does it sit flush with the tub?

John03 · Nov 30, 2016

Oldseadog said:
Those spreader plates are on the outside, in the 'handle well', and clamp the lock/handle assembly to the inside of the door.
When the door is shut does it sit flush with the tub?

yeah the door sits flush, but I still think the handle/lock is not far enough in. It appears to be really gripping the 'pin' on the latch so tight that it wont release without a fight or the aid of a screwdriver to help guide the pin over the latch pin. Through experimentation I think there need to be another 5mm gap between the handle and the door but the threaded rods on the spreader plate are not long enough. The spreader plates with the nuts on them I can use longer bolts. Awfy draft comes from the door handles as well. I have some 5mm rubber sheet I can make a gasket out of but not sure what to do about the short spreader plates.
Unless I buy another set and just use the ones with the nut welded to them and my own longer bolts.

gazman · Nov 30, 2016

does the sliding window stop that horrible cold draft by your knees that the normal defender window does when cracked slightly?? I like driving with the window cracked but can't stand the draft on my right knee. So much so I was thinking about some kind of wind deflector

Oldseadog · Nov 30, 2016

Yes, but only if you prefer a cold neck and shoulder!

K14 · Dec 1, 2016

Whatever you choose give series doors a miss

Oldseadog · Dec 1, 2016

There's nothing wrong with Series doors!

I prefer them, but each to his own.

John03 · Dec 1, 2016

K14 said:
Whatever you choose give series doors a miss

nowt wrong with series doors, cost of replacing with the newer type door is way too expensive. Its just I'm no mechanic I like to potter my good friend who used to guide me and help me repair my vehicle and other things has passed away so I'm trying to figure out on my own how to get these doors to open and close properly on my own. the company I brought them from were no help what so ever.

Oldseadog · Dec 1, 2016

OK. Post some pics of the door bits, locking handle, striker, striker shimms, and whatever else you've got, and we'll see if we can 'talk yoiu through' it.
Do you have Skype?
If so, PM me with your address, and then we can both work together.

John03 · Dec 1, 2016

Oldseadog said:
OK. Post some pics of the door bits, locking handle, striker, striker shimms, and whatever else you've got, and we'll see if we can 'talk yoiu through' it.
Do you have Skype?
If so, PM me with your address, and then we can both work together.

no skype will post some pics up at the weekend as its dark by time I get home and the pics wont be clear enough with out the help of the big yellow thing in the sky, thats if it shows face this weekend

Oldseadog · Dec 1, 2016

John03 · Dec 3, 2016

Oldseadog said:
OK. Post some pics of the door bits, locking handle, striker, striker shimms, and whatever else you've got, and we'll see if we can 'talk yoiu through' it. Do you have Skype? If so, PM me with your address, and then we can both work together.

As promised here are some photo's my theory is the door handle and latch are not close enough together but I'm right on the end of the fittings of the door handle and without cutting away a piece of the door rubber which I don't think is a good idea. Don't think I can space the door handle out either unless I ditch the fittings that came with it and use longer security screw and maybe a gasket make with 5mm rubber. Ideas?

Oldseadog · Dec 3, 2016

5mm seems a lot for a spacer!
Have you tried slackening thelock off by 1 1/2 turns of each fastening, then using a plpate washer in each corner to see if it works any better?
If it does, then drill a couple of holes in a two strips of 2mm anything (steel, ally, hard plastic, etc.) and fit them behind the lock.

John03 · Dec 3, 2016

Oldseadog said:
5mm seems a lot for a spacer!
Have you tried slackening thelock off by 1 1/2 turns of each fastening, then using a plpate washer in each corner to see if it works any better?
If it does, then drill a couple of holes in a two strips of 2mm anything (steel, ally, hard plastic, etc.) and fit them behind the lock.

yup I've tried that and yes 5mm does seem alot for a spacer but thats after using 3mm and thinking it needs more. I've just taken the door handle of the door and tried pushing it on to the latch as if it was still attached to the door. Even by doing that the door handle would not open properly and is very difficult to get it to go on and lock. I filmed it using my phone when I find the usb lead I'll try and post it here. Also the weld on the outside handle is broken handle still moves but if forced it rotates round leaving the interior handle in place. I may have done that trying to force the door open.
Gonna try and contact the seller see if he will send me a new door handle without me sending faulty one back until new one has arrived.

John03 · Dec 3, 2016

was I supposed to lubricate the door handles prior to use?

Oldseadog · Dec 3, 2016

It helps!

TD5 with Series doors

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