TD5 Turbo Wastegate Actuator Issues

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intlclarke

intlclarke

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12
Location
Canada
I wonder if anyone has this problem.... My turbo wastegate does not operate when the engines revs (and so my turbo does not operate properly), but when I disconnect the 4mm tube to the actuator and inject 15 psi air, the actuator moves as it should ( correct me if I'm mistaken). When is disconnect/remove the "u shape" tube after the turbo, there is some air exiting the turbo, but nothing compared to the vacuum leading into the cooler. It seems that there is so much vacuum "downstream" vs. the air forced out of the turbo that not enough pressure is created within the 4mm tube to actually move the actuator. What am I missing here? Any thoughts or previous experiences would be most helpful. Thank you.
 
Are you testing this with the vehicle stationary?
The turbo will not make anything like the pressure needed to activate the actuator unless you are loading the engine, you can tee into the actuator pipe and fit a pressure gauge and it will barely flicker, but take it out and flog it up a hill in 3rd or 4th gear and you will see the pressure go up, you can also see when the actuator opens and the pressure drops off.
 
raywin said:
Are you testing this with the vehicle stationary?
The turbo will not make anything like the pressure needed to activate the actuator unless you are loading the engine, you can tee into the actuator pipe and fit a pressure gauge and it will barely flicker, but take it out and flog it up a hill in 3rd or 4th gear and you will see the pressure go up, you can also see when the actuator opens and the pressure drops off.
Click to expand...

Hi Raywin and thank you for your response. Yes the vehicle was stationary, but I did have my daughter rev the engine and the actuator did not move. I didnt do a load test on a hill. One other bit of info is that I recently had a big issue whereby the injectors leaked so badly (over time) that oil/fuel was carried via the vent into the turbo. Had huge engine run on after switching off and black smoke was everywhere! I removed the "U shape" tube to find it full of oil/fuel. I wonder more oil/fuel was also sucked into the intercooler. If so, would that amount of restriction cause such a large vacuum. A wild guess. ....
 
raywin said:
Are you testing this with the vehicle stationary?
The turbo will not make anything like the pressure needed to activate the actuator unless you are loading the engine, you can tee into the actuator pipe and fit a pressure gauge and it will barely flicker, but take it out and flog it up a hill in 3rd or 4th gear and you will see the pressure go up, you can also see when the actuator opens and the pressure drops off.
Click to expand...

Hi Raywin, Also..... would a bad MAP sensor cause this issue?
 
intlclarke said:
Hi Raywin, Also..... would a bad MAP sensor cause this issue?
Click to expand...

It's not the map sensor its just that the engine revving unloaded does not drive the turbo charger hard enough to make much pressure. No matter how you rev it you will be lucky to see more than a few psi.
I teed into the actuator control pipe and put a gauge on the dash, you will hardly see it flicker unloaded but running uphill you see the pressure go up in response to the throttle pedal and at about 16 - 18 psi you see it fall back slightly as the gate opens and the exhaust gas bypasses the turbo.
Regarding the oil and the engine over run are you sure you don't have a cracked injector pocket, TD5s have suffered from that, diesel leaks into the oil sump and the oil level goes up, you need to check it out.
 
Hi Raywin, Yes you are right re: cylinder head. I installed a new Turners AMC Cylinder head (during the "over run" drama) and new injectors with LR seals, pistons rings and bushings. Also installed a new turbo cartridge. I reinstalled the turbo/actuator with exactly the same number of threads showing. Is there any chance at all the oil/fuel got sucked into the intercooler which is causing the high vacuum? I'll set up the science project and measure the psi. Thank you for all your advise. Regards, jeremy
 
Hi Raywin, One more piece of info is that this all started because the engine lacks power and grunt and barley make it to 100 km/hr. I thought my problem may be the turbo not playing its roll.
 
intlclarke said:
Hi Raywin, One more piece of info is that this all started because the engine lacks power and grunt and barley make it to 100 km/hr. I thought my problem may be the turbo not playing its roll.
Click to expand...
It may be that the turbo is not doing its job, I made a temporary rig with plastic pipe and a pressure gauge and then set up the turbo actuator by test driving and adjusting the connection rod until it seemed best, if the pressure goes too high it will go into limp mode.
The best place to read the boost is in the manifold which eliminates any problems from the intercooler.
It wouldn't hurt to clean out the intercooler which is probably oily and losing efficiency. Best would be if you could get a nanocom on it and do a test drive so you could see temperature and pressure and flow.
Have you tried taking the plug off the MAF sensor on the pipe between the air filter and turbo? If it runs better then probably the MAF sensor is giving problems, and needs replacing.
 
Hi Raywin. Quick update. i was able to borrow a friends Hawkeye. Only 1 error: CD ROM Checksum Error. Any ideas what this and could it be the cause of my issues?
 
intlclarke said:
Hi Raywin. Quick update. i was able to borrow a friends Hawkeye. Only 1 error: CD ROM Checksum Error. Any ideas what this and could it be the cause of my issues?
Click to expand...
I don't know that one, sounds like it's looking at the sat nav CD.
Remember the TD5 is not a standard system and ordinary readers give very strange readings, the Nanocom is the only one I know that can read it, when you use it it can monitor air flow, pressure and temperature live and graph the results so that you can look at what was happening when you were driving in different situations.
It will also show the adjustments made by the system for each injector to try and compensate for any inbalance, this will show up an injector problem.
 
OK thanks, I have read that if you get this reading it means your ECU has died but that doesn't make much sense given the cars still running. Maybe Im missing something (again).
 
Hi Raywin, I finally received all the necessary bits to run the test (we are in the midst of a full lockdown in Ontario, Canada making buying more difficult ). I ran the Defender up a slight incline at >3000 rpm and read the pressure gauge. It typically ran to about 15psi, which I believe is about right. The more worrying problem continues to be that it wont run much past 3000rpm and is very noisy ( almost knocking). Something is definitely wrong. The only thing that may be of concern is that I bought new injectors, but my Hawkeye wasn't able to load the last letter in the codes. Not sure if the last letter is significant or not.
 
The injector codes are used by the ECU to fine tune the system, but should not cause your problem, I think you have to look elsewhere.
How was it before the new injectors?
Is the fuel pump noisy? Lack of fuel pressure may be one possible cause, you might look for some posts on here about testing by measuring voltage across the pump fuse.
 
HI Raywin. I think my fuel pump is dying. Last checked it was barley 4psi. I think it should be 5-6psi until it gets regulated. ive ordered a new one. ill keep you posted.
 
That would do it, at the injector it should be 4 bar ( closer to 60 psi), you can take out the fuel temperature sender on the pressure regulator and connect a gauge in there, somtimes they show 4 bar but as soon as the engine is demanding more fuel then the pump cant cope and pressure falls.
4 psi is centainly no good there is a problem there.
 
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