TD5 Turbo problems - no boost

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Flagshiplandy

Flagshiplandy

Active Member
Posts
120
Location
Up North
Hi all!

I have just come across my first mechanical issue after nearly 1 year of 90 ownership and wondered if anyone can help me diagnose its problems.

On my last run out the turbo was making fluttering noises as it built up boost which it has never done before.

AUDIO CLIP OF LAST ACCELERATION JUST BEFORE LOOSING ALL BOOST :

After this last acceleration, i lost all boost and the turbo didn't seem to kick in at all. After limping it home i am now trying to figure it out and am thinking that it was either due to overboosting or a seized/shortened wastegate actuator?

Can anyone shed any light on the situation and give me any pointers of what to fix/check over the weekend?
thanks for your help :)
 
There are no hoses that have come off and I haven't noticed a split anywhere so not a 2min job :( . Is anyone able to help further as to what might be the problem? Thanks again
 
Sometimes splits are hard to spot [the fluttering noise is a possible indication] Waistgate may be stuck open, if you can see the waistgate have someone rev the motor up and down,you should see the arm move.
 
tottot said:
Sometimes splits are hard to spot [the fluttering noise is a possible indication] Waistgate may be stuck open, if you can see the waistgate have someone rev the motor up and down,you should see the arm move.
Click to expand...
Yep you were right! In an effort to remove the heat shield round the turbo I noticed a glaringly obvious crack. I'll try and add some pictures if I can work out how to
 
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That's part of the egr. From the exhaust to the egr cooler (unless yours is pre egr cooler) Remove it and blank at the exhaust manifold
 
gazman said:
That's part of the egr. From the exhaust to the egr cooler (unless yours is pre egr cooler) Remove it and blank at the exhaust manifold
Click to expand...
Yep will do! I think whoever blanked the pipe off before me took a shortcut by blanking the pipe not the manifold as the bolt holding the pipe to the manifold is nigh on impossible to remove, spent most of today doing it with no success due to the angle it is at.

Also wasn't there a change to the mot regarding egr which prevents modification? I might have to put back the kit after all :(
 
Flagshiplandy said:
the bolt holding the pipe to the manifold is nigh on impossible to remove, spent most of today doing it with no success due to the angle it is at.

Also wasn't there a change to the mot regarding egr which prevents modification? I might have to put back the kit after all :(
Click to expand...
Yeah that bolts a bitch on mine too. Mine had been blanked on the egr cooler. If I ever have to remove the manifold I'm gonna get the little sod out and blank it there.
As per MOT mine went through fine but it's not as obvious as yours for being blanked off as it's all under the plastic cover.
Once its blanked on the manifold yours will be a lot harder to see too.
 
gazman said:
Yeah that bolts a bitch on mine too. Mine had been blanked on the egr cooler. If I ever have to remove the manifold I'm gonna get the little sod out and blank it there.
As per MOT mine went through fine but it's not as obvious as yours for being blanked off as it's all under the plastic cover.
Once its blanked on the manifold yours will be a lot harder to see too.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the help :)
 
Still struggling to get that awfully placed bolt out so am going to buy a new set of hex head bits tomorrow. Would you say it is okay to drive the 90 10miles or so if I tape up the crack in the pipe? (Without pushing it obviously)
 
You got any torx drive bits? Mine was a right bastard to get out so I hammered a torx bit into the bolt to undo it.

IIRC you can bend that pipe to lift it up out the way a little to give you a little more access, as it’s only thin metal it’s pretty flexiable
 
baronvonprepper said:
You got any torx drive bits? Mine was a right bastard to get out so I hammered a torx bit into the bolt to undo it.

IIRC you can bend that pipe to lift it up out the way a little to give you a little more access, as it’s only thin metal it’s pretty flexiable
Click to expand...

Good idea!

I think I have lost the exact torx bit that would work (typical :rolleyes:). That's why I was wondering if it would damage anything if I was to drive it with the crack taped up as I need to buy a new set?
 
baronvonprepper said:
Would probably be better using an exhaust leak seal kit as no tape will withstand those temps
Click to expand...

I got that problem sorted but then I sheared off one of the bolts for the blanking plate going into the manifold as it is a blind hole. :mad: This weekends job is taking the manifold off drilling out the bolt and replacing the blanking plate. Lesson learnt - don't use a socket with a bolt in a blind hole :rolleyes:
 
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