Disco 2 TD5 top hose - grrrrr

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J

joojar

Active Member
Posts
158
Location
Derbyshire
Newish rad, brand new genuine top hose... *still* leaking from the joint, but only on the 10th or so journey and 500 or so miles since changing the hose, and seemingly only once the engine has cooled after a run. Looks like a few teaspoons worth, judging by the size of the drip mark on the drive. Held onto its water just fine until the leak restarted.

Full disclosure: I'm currently using the spring clip that came with the hose. I know many here dislike/distrust/hate them and bin them for worm gear at the first opportunity, but (1) they're OE and presumably the chuffing things didn't leak like this out of the factory gate and (2) the engineer in me says a constant force clamp ought to be a better bet than a constant displacement clamp on a thermal cycling leak - I tried worm gear on the previous hose, it still leaked.

Grrrrrrrrr
 
I use genuine Jubilee stainless worm drive hose clips. I find they cure all the problems I have had. :)

Have you checked for any excess pressure in the system ?
 
Disco1BFG said:
I use genuine Jubilee stainless worm drive hose clips.
Click to expand...

Regarding "Jubilee clips" or worm drive hose clips, I know that with a slot in the head of the worm drive, the temptation is to use a screwdriver, but that does have its risks, not least the possibilty of the screwdriver slipping and piercing either the hose or worse still, your hand. There's also the risk that because of that threat, you're not going to tighten the clip to the desired pressure to fully seal the joint.
The hex head on the screw is sometimes too soft or badly formed to take a nut driver. That's why these devices have been developed. They are basically a shrouded screwdriver which fits over the worm drive screw head so that the full tension can be applied safely.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2060353.m570.l1311.R8.TR12.TRC2.A0.H1.Xjubilee+.TRS0&_nkw=jubilee+clip+driver&_sacat=0
 
brian47 said:
Regarding "Jubilee clips" or worm drive hose clips, I know that with a slot in the head of the worm drive, the temptation is to use a screwdriver, but that does have its risks, not least the possibilty of the screwdriver slipping and piercing either the hose or worse still, your hand. There's also the risk that because of that threat, you're not going to tighten the clip to the desired pressure to fully seal the joint.
The hex head on the screw is sometimes too soft or badly formed to take a nut driver. That's why these devices have been developed. They are basically a shrouded screwdriver which fits over the worm drive screw head so that the full tension can be applied safely.
Click to expand...

I agree with the use of the proper tool at all times, Matron :confused:.......:D

Have you got an item number for that please - as the tracking sh*t in the link puts me off clicking it.... sorry, but :eek:
:)

( i was gonna say, I need a new one,:) as mine is worn out :eek::eek::eek:..... but thought better of it.:oops:.... :confused:)
 
brian47 said:
That's why these devices have been developed. They are basically a shrouded screwdriver which fits over the worm drive screw head so that the full tension can be applied safely.
Click to expand...

Hi Brian,

Looks like most of the items in that linky, go to std flexible shaft nut runners, which utilise the hex head to drive. Not a shrouded screwdriver.

Cheers
 
Disco1BFG said:
I agree with the use of the proper tool at all times, Matron :confused:.......:D

Have you got an item number for that please - as the tracking sh*t in the link puts me off clicking it.... sorry, but :eek:
:)

( i was gonna say, I need a new one,:) as mine is worn out :eek::eek::eek:..... but thought better of it.:oops:.... :confused:)
Click to expand...
It seems that my description might be a little out dated, these days all you can get is a 7mm socket, but in the olden days of yore Jubilee clips came with a cheesehead screw, and the driver I have was inherited from my father.
 
Did make me think tho, :D
I need to get a 6" 1/4 flexible extension drive for the toolbox. Just for those awkwardly orientated jubilees that have been put on.

Cheers
 
joojar said:
Newish rad, brand new genuine top hose... *still* leaking from the joint, but only on the 10th or so journey and 500 or so miles since changing the hose, and seemingly only once the engine has cooled after a run. Looks like a few teaspoons worth, judging by the size of the drip mark on the drive. Held onto its water just fine until the leak restarted.

Full disclosure: I'm currently using the spring clip that came with the hose. I know many here dislike/distrust/hate them and bin them for worm gear at the first opportunity, but (1) they're OE and presumably the chuffing things didn't leak like this out of the factory gate and (2) the engineer in me says a constant force clamp ought to be a better bet than a constant displacement clamp on a thermal cycling leak - I tried worm gear on the previous hose, it still leaked.

Grrrrrrrrr
Click to expand...

That was the first sign of my head gasket going, I replaced the factory hose clip with a jubilee clip then the rad started to leak then the penny dropped!
 
lynall said:
That was the first sign of my head gasket going, I replaced the factory hose clip with a jubilee clip then the rad started to leak then the penny dropped!
Click to expand...
Reluctantly starting to think along those lines (although you'd expect the expansion tank cap to relieve any HG-leak-induced over-pressure?)

Without whipping off the head, is there anything I can do to find out more? Sniff test any use here?
 
Dont leave it to long because if you do the head can shuffle sideways and the valves can make contact with the cylinder bore wall scrapping the engine.
It was a few years ago but Im sure the top hose was as hard as can be after a run, why I never noticed this in the first place I dont know!
The cylinder head dowels on mine were the plastic ones and they were nearly cut in half by the movement of the head.
Sniff test may work never tried it myself.
 
Only pic i can find, if you notice the coolant hose has been expanding that much its been making contact with the rigid air con pipes.

Screen Shot 2017-04-16 at 15.21.34.png
 
Well worth doing some research and if Iirc the plastic dowels were used to stop the assembly line workers damaging the cyl head face when fitting it to the block.
Lots of people blame the dowels for head gaskets but I think theres always an underlying issue ie overheating/tuned/water pump etc
 
I had this issue when I bought after market top hose it leaked at the joint they replaced it and it has been fine since. There are so many parts out there saying they are oem and they are not to me oem are after market as I have had the same problems with them.
 
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