TD5 struggles to start

New fuel pump, earth, all electrical connections etc checked and still the same. I think with the latest bill I will be giving up on it to be honest

Can you try another ecu, with a stock map? Or reflash yours? Start from square one.

Is it throwing any codes/errors?

Does the filter housing and filter appear ok? Look for cracks with filter removed, replace filter with a premium one NOT a cheapo

Hi- Not throwing up any errors, and all the voltages seem to be fine. It does the same with the old ECU, new ECU and the indy's test ECU.

Air was getting into the fuel line before, but the new fuel pump has solved that. It is quicker to start, but the problem still remains. For the amount I've spent on it now I could have put a new engine in it!

Edit to add : Alarm circuit board has been taken out and checked too, no problem there

Have you done injector seals and o rings - haven't looked through posts.

Yup, injector seals and o rings done too

have similar problems with mine also, sometimes goes really well but moest of the time its really flat , no smoke ever though , usally starts okay but sometimes will just turn and turn , driving me mad !

Had probs with mine,starting a couple of months ago,cutting out half mile from home,fuel starvation.Would start again after priming and go for another half mile.Replaced fuel pump,which strangely made it worse.Took out air purge valve,and this solved the problem,so got a new one and put it in.Killed it again!Took it out and drove without it for a few weeks,everything fine,except occasionally if parked uphill would need priming to start,as fuel seemed to run back to tank.Just today replaced the fuel pressure regulator/connecter block,problem solved!Put the little air purge filter back in,and drove 5 miles or so without dying,so it appears that,after about 450 quid or so on various bits,that was the problem.If that hadn't worked the last resort was going to be the washers and O rings on the injectors,but I thought they were ok as no sign of leakage.Fingers crossed!

I probably sound like a worn out record here, but my Td5 (110) was doing that and I fixed it with a new battery and cleaning the earths. My battery at rest measured fine, but when starting it would drop voltage which Td5's do not like. And cleaning the earths helped a lot too. Don't have my 110 with me at the moment but as I remember there's one on the frame rail behind the engine, and another up top on the bulkhead. Lights were brighter, windshield wipers went faster. It was like a modern car! Also if you have a cat and it's clogged up and dirty, that back pressure at startup causes problems too. Let us know how you get on!

I have had the same sort of problem. Intermittent at first so could not find the fault last thing was poor starting and had to jump start it, and then white smoke running like its missing 2 cylinders which it was (Nanocom). Tested all the injector wiring with meter all OK still a fault about to remove injectors for servicing etc.etc. and spend ££££££££. Cured it by stripping an old spare engine loom and making a harness from the rocker cover Injector plug to the ECU. Red plug pins can be unclipped and removed with a small watch maker’s screwdriver. Turn't key and fired first time and sounding so smooth. Cost = £0.00

tractorman said:

Hi all - back after a long TD5 absence and its already testing my patience!

Bought her a couple of months back, and when i start it from cold i have to keep the key turned for about 5 secs with the throttle pedal right down, then she fires up at very low revs, with white smoke pouring out the back that stinks of diesel. This lasts about 20 secs. When she makes it to idling speed the throttle response is very poor and have to give it a boot to get it moving. Once started its absolutely fine, and starts straight away but after its been left about 2 or 3 hours the same happens.

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Sounds like a fuel leak. I found on mine that the connections in / out of the fuel filter housing were corroded. Didn't think much of it at the time, turns out it was letting air into the system. If you have done your air bleed valve it may be enough disturbance to the housing to prevent a good seal.

Have the diagnostics thrown up any codes?
Did you replace the FPR or just replace the seals? Inside it there is a small gauze filter, but I doubt this is an issue for you.

I feel your pain. Been there.

I'm back, and still have the same problem! Work has meant i've not had time to get round to it til now. I did put in a whole, new earth lead but this didnt make any difference. Recorded the start up the other morning which makes it a bit easier to explain - it's weird how it suddenly starts running fine in the last 5 secs of the vid.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AW4I-rkB6kw


When it's running rough like that if i even go near the throttle pedal it just dies, but works perfectly when it starts running ok.

The fuel pump sounds ok and is at a constant pitch, fuel pressure is ok.

Any more ideas appreciated!!

Mines doing the same sort of thing at the moment not as bad though. Only does it when cold in the mornings. Have you tried swapping injectors out for known good ones? Have you checked the cam timing?

When the garage did the injector seals he reckoned the injectors were slightly worn but should be ok, also reckoned the timing was fine, but not sure how much i trust their judgement now. Would the timing out etc only affect it at cols start? Just puzzles me how it starts on the button when its warm

Id recommend taking her to a bosch rated garage if your in any dought about the one your using.. reading on posts and stuff seems the cam timing can effect cold start and cause smoke.

Cheers! As luck would have it a Bosch approved centre has opened about 3 miles from me that specialises in VAG and LR which is handy to know.

Looking around on the net my symptoms are pretty similar to timing being out, will get them to check the injectors too. Hopefully be along with some good news!

tractorman said:

Cheers! As luck would have it a Bosch approved centre has opened about 3 miles from me that specialises in VAG and LR which is handy to know.

Looking around on the net my symptoms are pretty similar to timing being out, will get them to check the injectors too. Hopefully be along with some good news!

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Good luck,let us know the results,hopefully good one's.

tractorman said:

I've noticed now that when its running real rough just after start up the speedo goes up to about 50, then back down again. Beginning to think maybe electrical problem maybe, it's sending me round and round in bloody circles. Had a poke about today and one of the underseat relays had worked itself up, pushed it back in to no effect.

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This is definitely a loose connection from the immobiliser to pin 33 ECU Black plug

tractorman said:

I'm back, and still have the same problem! Work has meant i've not had time to get round to it til now. I did put in a whole, new earth lead but this didnt make any difference. Recorded the start up the other morning which makes it a bit easier to explain - it's weird how it suddenly starts running fine in the last 5 secs of the vid.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AW4I-rkB6kw


When it's running rough like that if i even go near the throttle pedal it just dies, but works perfectly when it starts running ok.

The fuel pump sounds ok and is at a constant pitch, fuel pressure is ok.

Any more ideas appreciated!!

Click to expand...

Dunno about running rough sounds more like the starter hasn't disengaged to me.....

I'd be checking all the pins on them there ECU plugs

Afternoon Guys,
Hoping someone can help; new to LR just aquired a Defender 90 TD5 1999 Truck Cab.

Owned for 1 month and have encountered my first issue! Starting It.

Intially noticed that it would start then die a few seconds later this was not an issue as it would soon go again after, I also noted that when it did this the fuel level was low. So I thought there maybe a crack in the stack pipe/pump in the tank. (Now i think not)

The problem has got progressivly worse to the point it will now not start, now I have read the various forums and ideas but im at a lost end as to whether it is immobiliser ECU related or Fuel related.

The scenario of the last two days; Started on the button drove into work had low fuel, stayed at work the night and went to leave 24hrs later (was cold) car started then died 3 secs later as if it was starved of fuel so allowed the purge process to run - nothing, so left it for the night.

Came back today armed with fuel, jump leads and Easy Start, filled up the tank with 10L hooked up to the works van as I thought i'd run the battery down, allowed the purge process to run, tried to start nothing, added a little EZ start it went fine. Left it running for 30mins on elevated Revs then shut it off.

Came back 4 hours later, jumped in gave the pump a sec to purge started it and it died 3 secs later. Tried to repeat my earlier success and nothing!!

I have checked all the fuses they are all fine, it swings but will not go as if starved of fuel. The Pump whines and I can hear it working, however I can hear fuel transiting the lines under the cab when I put my ear to them which makes me wonder if the fuel pump is on the way out / gone despite sounding if its working. It sounds like as soon as the pump shuts off the fuel drains back into the tank.

Or is it ECU/immobiliser related? I can hear the fuse/relay clicking under the seat when trying to start and it would make sense as it originally started then died. I have hear people mention about the wire leading from the Immobiliser to ECU being broken causing the same problem.

Has anyone got and idea's? Its at work and I'm going to have to get it towed home.
(Yeovil Somerset)

Regards

Tom

P.s. I'm not sure how to access this thread again once I leave, (NEWBY)
If anyone has any ideas please message me / email me.
[email protected]