TD5 Rod Bearings
- Thread starter JLGALL1
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
raywin
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 3,808
- Location
- North Yorkshire
Looks prety good to me.
You can buy plastigauge which is a soft material you put it on the shaft then nip up the cap then remove it, according to how wide it spreads it indicates the clearance in the shell and you can work out how much wear is actualy there.
Quite honestly the shells are not very expensive and if you have gone this far may be worth carefully fitting new ones ( if your budget allows ).
Mine were worse than that at 120K miles but not drastic.
Take care replacing the caps, they are fracture split, be sure you seat them back slowly and carefully so there is no gap then you need new bolts as they are strech tightened.
You can buy plastigauge which is a soft material you put it on the shaft then nip up the cap then remove it, according to how wide it spreads it indicates the clearance in the shell and you can work out how much wear is actualy there.
Quite honestly the shells are not very expensive and if you have gone this far may be worth carefully fitting new ones ( if your budget allows ).
Mine were worse than that at 120K miles but not drastic.
Take care replacing the caps, they are fracture split, be sure you seat them back slowly and carefully so there is no gap then you need new bolts as they are strech tightened.
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 2,215
- Location
- Huddersfield
+1
I'd suggest checking the small ends for gudgeon rock - I had all 5 with wear that was allowing the gudgeon to rock in the bearing... wasn't good for piston health as you can imagine
I'd suggest checking the small ends for gudgeon rock - I had all 5 with wear that was allowing the gudgeon to rock in the bearing... wasn't good for piston health as you can imagine
Bantam1
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 1,627
- Location
- North Wales, UK
I'd be happy enough with those.
Maybe in another 90k it would be a nice time to do a full rebuild and relife it.
Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 2,215
- Location
- Huddersfield
That's the thrust side, it always has more wear.
frostythor
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 608
- Location
- NEW FOREST
if you have gone to all the trouble to stripped it down enough to remove a big end cap , then the best way forward is to replace the lot, with new and complete the reconditioning of the motor, you will need to measure up the crank and you could get away with just replacing the original caps with the same size, and not need to have it re-ground, any cost cutting now could be an expensive mistake in the future
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 91,879
- Location
- louth lincs
as bennehboy said youll find the bottom shell of the main bearings the most worn
- Posts
- 44,831
- Location
- East Dorset
+1 to a lot of the above.
If you have gone to all the trouble to take the engine this far apart it would be false economy to do anything other than replace all bearings.
Did you check the crank for ovality? I take it you did and it was in spec if you have just ordered same size as original bearings!
If you have gone to all the trouble to take the engine this far apart it would be false economy to do anything other than replace all bearings.
Did you check the crank for ovality? I take it you did and it was in spec if you have just ordered same size as original bearings!
